New roof: Colorbond vs tiles
- Thread starter Glebe
- Start date
IMHO tiles look nicer.
but their thermal mass doesn't help keep the living spaces more neutral temp wise. thermal mass is better located just above the ceiling, not at the roof line.
Can't understand why colourbond is cheaper. I reckon it looks tacky. though resists the hail a lot better than tiles. and probably harder for thieves to break through.
I'd presume colourbond is lower maintenance in the long term.
but their thermal mass doesn't help keep the living spaces more neutral temp wise. thermal mass is better located just above the ceiling, not at the roof line.
Can't understand why colourbond is cheaper. I reckon it looks tacky. though resists the hail a lot better than tiles. and probably harder for thieves to break through.
I'd presume colourbond is lower maintenance in the long term.
It is not cheaper. Not according to all the builders I have been discussing our new home with these last few months.
sorry.....been a long day prepping and painting hardiplank.
meant can't understand why colourbond is dearer, as it looks tacky.
meant can't understand why colourbond is dearer, as it looks tacky.
In Rockhampton colourbond is cheaper by a few grand, and a couple of thousand Kg lighter.
Our builder reckon's the same amount of trusses are used in a tiled roof as colourbond, so a lot less strain on the structure in colourbond.
But..........as Ausprop say's, tiles look better on a californian bungalow.
BB
Our builder reckon's the same amount of trusses are used in a tiled roof as colourbond, so a lot less strain on the structure in colourbond.
But..........as Ausprop say's, tiles look better on a californian bungalow.
BB
There has been plenty of opinion on the authenticity of the home so I will leave that up to you.
A couple of opinions from us from a builders perspective and insurance assessors on another.
We have just finished the frame on a home which the owner wanted quoted in both tiles and colourbond.
Trusses for tiles = 600 centres (many more trusses and $$$ for chippies)
Trusses for iron = 1000 centres
Tile/labour quote for roof = $19k(concrete tile).
Iron/labour quote for roof = $19k (colourbond).
If you don't like the sound of rain on your roof then go with tiles. Thermal mass properties of tiles is irrelevant especially as most new or retiled roofs are sarked, heat rises not falls and ceilings are usually insulated these days. WW Thermal mass at ceiling level?? Did you mean to say that? (no disrespect WW but I am an accredited energy rater and have to disagree with your comment) But those details are not relevant to this thread!
From another angle I would like to say that in our years of assessing insurance claims, we were suprised with the number of tiled roof homes that sustained water damage during storms with high winds. There seemed to be a common problem where very strong winds lifted up tiles from the base and allowed rain to penetrate the roof cavity causing water damage. We also had to rebed ridge capping tiles and repoint many tiled roofs after big storms.
That said an iron roof that isn't given a once over every now and again (especially after a storm) will eventually need rescrewing or replacing as well.
I like the look of both roofs depending on the house. I suppose it will come down to looks, maintenance and money. Good luck with your decision.
A couple of opinions from us from a builders perspective and insurance assessors on another.
We have just finished the frame on a home which the owner wanted quoted in both tiles and colourbond.
Trusses for tiles = 600 centres (many more trusses and $$$ for chippies)
Trusses for iron = 1000 centres
Tile/labour quote for roof = $19k(concrete tile).
Iron/labour quote for roof = $19k (colourbond).
If you don't like the sound of rain on your roof then go with tiles. Thermal mass properties of tiles is irrelevant especially as most new or retiled roofs are sarked, heat rises not falls and ceilings are usually insulated these days. WW Thermal mass at ceiling level?? Did you mean to say that? (no disrespect WW but I am an accredited energy rater and have to disagree with your comment) But those details are not relevant to this thread!
From another angle I would like to say that in our years of assessing insurance claims, we were suprised with the number of tiled roof homes that sustained water damage during storms with high winds. There seemed to be a common problem where very strong winds lifted up tiles from the base and allowed rain to penetrate the roof cavity causing water damage. We also had to rebed ridge capping tiles and repoint many tiled roofs after big storms.
That said an iron roof that isn't given a once over every now and again (especially after a storm) will eventually need rescrewing or replacing as well.
I like the look of both roofs depending on the house. I suppose it will come down to looks, maintenance and money. Good luck with your decision.
I wasn't making blanket generalisations BB just sticking the area where the IP is. There definately would be differences in cyclonic areas BB; and I did edit a comment before posting my reply about that because I re-read the question and saw the IP was in Sydney; no cyclone zones around there! At the end of the day he would be covered, having had tiles previously, so it wasn't important when addressing his question.
I also like the sound of rain on my roof, ours is a little muffled as the ceiling is insulated, but even before it wasn't an annoying noise. These days no-one would complain anyhow. We are getting some here at the moment...I was starting to forget the sound too.
The opinion about thermal mass being more appropriate at ceiling level is that of a commercial architect. The point he was making is that if you want to keep a room's temp more even no matter the weather, then thermal mass is better placed adjacent to living spaces, and insulation external to that. The thermal mass then reduces the variation of temperature in the living spaces. In Australia, we focus mostly on floor and wall thermal mass, though the principal applies to overhead mass as well.
As to heat rising, that's an oversimplification. Heat travels along a temperature gradient from high to low temp areas, which can be up or down, via conduction through solids, or radiation. Nevertheless, I don't want to argue the matter with you. There's a lot of good quality information on efficient house design on the net for those interested.
Yes, I understand the principles involved WW, I wasn't trying to catch you out or argue, just knew you had been working hard (as you mentioned in an earlier post where you had a slip of the keyboard) and thought you had slipped up. I agree with the thermal mass principle but disagree with your application of the theory in your example as roof tiles are sarked, no heat transfer downwards but it does provide a buffer for the internal areas. I appreciate your interpretation though and enjoy your posts.
You will spoil the charecter of the bungalow with colourbond roofing. Go with tiles. I like colourbond and have it in my house but my house is not a Californian Bungalow.
No disrespect towards you either Julie. I appreciate having a builder on the forum giving valuable advice. You have reassured me several times that i am not being ripped off
Re sarking, a builder told me last week most builders don't sark anymore, as it wasn't a requirement of the Aussie building code. And he said sarking was more for stopping condensation from dripping down onto the ceiling. I didn't think sarking would have that much heat transfer inhibition.
Anyways, will respectfully take in your view too.
Hi Glebe,
You should have possibly asked whether people prefer Coke or Pepsi.....................
I have seen the Californian Bungalow with Colourbond roofing concept only twice. One looked like rubbish the other looked brilliant. Both were authentic style bungalows in Melbournes inner suburbs.
The one that looked really good was a partial addition and architecturally designed reno. The style of bungalow was that with a half front verandah. The product used was normal corrogated iron (orb) - I think the colour was what used to be called Autumn Red - that's how long ago it was. It probably also mattered that the plumber had done an awesome job with the flashings and valleys.....seriously neat as a pin.The site was also pretty seriously treed up in the front so I suppose that reduced the impact from the street view.
The one that looked like rubbish was a style of bungalow with a full front verandah. The OB had used Kliplock decking (once again Autumn red). I didn't say anything at the time but it just looked wrong..........especially as he hadn't managed to set the sheets at 90 degrees of the front wall....... .He was proud of it I suppose...........
In the end it'll be up to you to judge what the look will be...........
If the tiles are cheaper I'd probably stick with them.
ciao
Nor
You should have possibly asked whether people prefer Coke or Pepsi.....................
I have seen the Californian Bungalow with Colourbond roofing concept only twice. One looked like rubbish the other looked brilliant. Both were authentic style bungalows in Melbournes inner suburbs.
The one that looked really good was a partial addition and architecturally designed reno. The style of bungalow was that with a half front verandah. The product used was normal corrogated iron (orb) - I think the colour was what used to be called Autumn Red - that's how long ago it was. It probably also mattered that the plumber had done an awesome job with the flashings and valleys.....seriously neat as a pin.The site was also pretty seriously treed up in the front so I suppose that reduced the impact from the street view.
The one that looked like rubbish was a style of bungalow with a full front verandah. The OB had used Kliplock decking (once again Autumn red). I didn't say anything at the time but it just looked wrong..........especially as he hadn't managed to set the sheets at 90 degrees of the front wall.......
.He was proud of it I suppose...........In the end it'll be up to you to judge what the look will be...........
If the tiles are cheaper I'd probably stick with them.
ciao
Nor
I was told the same re sarking. Would you recommend it Julie?
I myself prefer colorbond roof, also look at the gutters and downpipes thay can be colorbond also therefore saving you the expense of re-painting evry 5-10 years. In some instances I believe colorbond is cheaper that buying the raw gutter and painting. I have seen the jobs done by painters and it makes me lean towards colorbond.
To sark or not to sark!
Ok Simon, since you asked, here is 'my' understanding of the function and benefits of sarking. I'm not saying that my opinion is specific to all area's and products used, but nonetheless here we go..
Reflective foil laminate is one of four types of reflective insulation currently available. It is commonly used as roof sarking and wall insulation. We use a medium density sarking for tiled roofs. It has layers of polymer film (anti glare), laminating adhesive, kraft paper, flame retardant adhesive, reinforcing glass fibre and aluminium foil. We use a medium duty foil laminate sarking under our tiled roofs for the following reasons
The functions of sarking can be viewed as up to five-fold;
it has a insulating function as it can add an additional R.09 to R2.1 to a roof structure (tiled or metal roof).
It also has an energy efficient component which, when installed (usually on commercial properties) as an exposed internal roof lining, reduces summer heat gain and winter heat loss. As an exposed internal roof lining it also increases the reflectivity of the ceiling (up to 40%) reducing lighting loads.
It's protective function provides an effective barrier against the ingress of wind driven rain, dust and debris into the roof space, particularly if tiles get damaged and this is the main function of sarking under tiles. Sisalation if installed with the appropriate adhesive aluminium foil tape also serves as a vapour barrier although condensation is not as big a factor for tiled roofs as it is for metal roofs, purely due to the conductive properties of the materials involved in our diurnal temp range etc, so it is mostly only under metal roofs that we would install sisalation to reduce the potential for condensation to occur and even then people often opt not to do it for financial reasons. Sarking, in any case, will prevent water damage to building fabric from condensation dripping onto bulk insulation which reduces it's effectiveness substantially over time.
Its last function is as a flame retardant in bushfire prone areas as it can assist in preventing sparks into the roof space.
For those who would like to know -
Condensation - Air always contains a certain amount of water vapour. This can originate from many sources around the home (respiration, cooking, bathrooms, laundries, indoor plants, LPG gas heaters etc. When moist air is cooled below its dewpoint (cooled to a temperature at which it can't contain all the water originally present) and if the cooling is caused by contact with a colder surface, the vapour changes to liquid droplets on that surface. This is condensation.
In cold conditions condensation can occur in a roof space especially where metal deck roofs are used. Exhausting moist air into a roof cavity (exhaust fans and rangehoods) can also cause condensation. This condensation is known as interstitial condensation. It can cause mould, mildew and rotting of building components. Condensation is a particular hazard in cathedral or flat roof systems where the low ventilation rate within the roof space may be insufficient to remove water vapour in the air or condensed within the building components.
Thermal Mass - Thermal mass is a term used to describe a building materials ability to store heat. Building materials which are heavyweight store alot of heat so are said to be high thermal mass. Materials that are lightweight do not store much heat and have low thermal mass. The use of a heavyweight construction with high thermal mass (concrete slab on ground and insulated brick cavity walls) can reduce heating and cooling requirements by up to 25% compared to a home built with lighter weight materials that have a low thermal mass (brick veneer with a timber floor).
To be most effective, thermal mass should be insulated from external temperatures i.e. it should be located within insulated walls. The benefits of thermal mass are considerably reduced if the external envelope is not insulated; for this reason brick veneer walls offer little thermal mass benefit as the brick is on the outside of the insulated cavity. And this is the reason that I 'agreed to disagree' with WW post regarding applying thermal mass principles to roof tiles. It is internal thermal mass that is important, not external. Thermal mass needs to be able to release heat into a living area to even out fluctuations in temperature i.e. A concrete floor directly on the ground will take advantage of the huge thermal mass of the earth beneath and release into the room above. An internal brick wall in a appropriately facing room will take advantage of solar radiation. Thermal mass in roof tiles release into roof cavity and external environment. May be of some consequence if roof isn't insulated but doesnt factor in any energy rating software or material that I have read or used (respectfully).
Of all material choices the wall selection accounts for 60-70% fo the thermal mass in a building and the floor accounts for 30-40%. There are guidelines to where, how much and which rooms benefit from thermal mass but not this time I have an overdue BAS to finish. Sorry mod's for long post. Please note that this is a general idea,only as there is much more to applying these principle than these few paragraphs can encompass.
Ok Simon, since you asked, here is 'my' understanding of the function and benefits of sarking. I'm not saying that my opinion is specific to all area's and products used, but nonetheless here we go..
Reflective foil laminate is one of four types of reflective insulation currently available. It is commonly used as roof sarking and wall insulation. We use a medium density sarking for tiled roofs. It has layers of polymer film (anti glare), laminating adhesive, kraft paper, flame retardant adhesive, reinforcing glass fibre and aluminium foil. We use a medium duty foil laminate sarking under our tiled roofs for the following reasons
The functions of sarking can be viewed as up to five-fold;
it has a insulating function as it can add an additional R.09 to R2.1 to a roof structure (tiled or metal roof).
It also has an energy efficient component which, when installed (usually on commercial properties) as an exposed internal roof lining, reduces summer heat gain and winter heat loss. As an exposed internal roof lining it also increases the reflectivity of the ceiling (up to 40%) reducing lighting loads.
It's protective function provides an effective barrier against the ingress of wind driven rain, dust and debris into the roof space, particularly if tiles get damaged and this is the main function of sarking under tiles. Sisalation if installed with the appropriate adhesive aluminium foil tape also serves as a vapour barrier although condensation is not as big a factor for tiled roofs as it is for metal roofs, purely due to the conductive properties of the materials involved in our diurnal temp range etc, so it is mostly only under metal roofs that we would install sisalation to reduce the potential for condensation to occur and even then people often opt not to do it for financial reasons. Sarking, in any case, will prevent water damage to building fabric from condensation dripping onto bulk insulation which reduces it's effectiveness substantially over time.
Its last function is as a flame retardant in bushfire prone areas as it can assist in preventing sparks into the roof space.
For those who would like to know -
Condensation - Air always contains a certain amount of water vapour. This can originate from many sources around the home (respiration, cooking, bathrooms, laundries, indoor plants, LPG gas heaters etc. When moist air is cooled below its dewpoint (cooled to a temperature at which it can't contain all the water originally present) and if the cooling is caused by contact with a colder surface, the vapour changes to liquid droplets on that surface. This is condensation.
In cold conditions condensation can occur in a roof space especially where metal deck roofs are used. Exhausting moist air into a roof cavity (exhaust fans and rangehoods) can also cause condensation. This condensation is known as interstitial condensation. It can cause mould, mildew and rotting of building components. Condensation is a particular hazard in cathedral or flat roof systems where the low ventilation rate within the roof space may be insufficient to remove water vapour in the air or condensed within the building components.
Thermal Mass - Thermal mass is a term used to describe a building materials ability to store heat. Building materials which are heavyweight store alot of heat so are said to be high thermal mass. Materials that are lightweight do not store much heat and have low thermal mass. The use of a heavyweight construction with high thermal mass (concrete slab on ground and insulated brick cavity walls) can reduce heating and cooling requirements by up to 25% compared to a home built with lighter weight materials that have a low thermal mass (brick veneer with a timber floor).
To be most effective, thermal mass should be insulated from external temperatures i.e. it should be located within insulated walls. The benefits of thermal mass are considerably reduced if the external envelope is not insulated; for this reason brick veneer walls offer little thermal mass benefit as the brick is on the outside of the insulated cavity. And this is the reason that I 'agreed to disagree' with WW post regarding applying thermal mass principles to roof tiles. It is internal thermal mass that is important, not external. Thermal mass needs to be able to release heat into a living area to even out fluctuations in temperature i.e. A concrete floor directly on the ground will take advantage of the huge thermal mass of the earth beneath and release into the room above. An internal brick wall in a appropriately facing room will take advantage of solar radiation. Thermal mass in roof tiles release into roof cavity and external environment. May be of some consequence if roof isn't insulated but doesnt factor in any energy rating software or material that I have read or used (respectfully).
Of all material choices the wall selection accounts for 60-70% fo the thermal mass in a building and the floor accounts for 30-40%. There are guidelines to where, how much and which rooms benefit from thermal mass but not this time I have an overdue BAS to finish. Sorry mod's for long post. Please note that this is a general idea,only as there is much more to applying these principle than these few paragraphs can encompass.
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