Yes, that's what I said.
To clarify, my question was and is: why would a fully hardwood floor (as per option 2 below, which is what I was referring to, not engineered flooring) be necessarily inferior to option 1?
Do wooden floors add value?
- Thread starter shanematt
- Start date
To clarify, my question was and is: why would a fully hardwood floor (as per option 2 below, which is what I was referring to, not engineered flooring) be necessarily inferior to option 1?
Option 1 and Option 2 are quite similar in their quality and finish, I wouldn't think there is much difference at all. It is my belief, that both of these options are superior to Option 3 and Option 4. Better than Option 3 because I don't like the prefinished look, and better than Option 4 because I don't like the prefinished look and the first two options have a substantially longer lifespan.
Thanks.
Would option 2 be much cheaper than option one? If so,this could be the better option in an IP.
The overlay (Option 2) is generally dearer. Whilst the flooring itself is marginally cheaper, you need to factor in the cost of the substrate (ply, battens etc).
Overlay is great for going over the top of an existing floor such as Radiata Pine. Just glues down and nails into the joists under the flooring.
Hrm, we did one of those last year sans license, noone seemed to mind. Although the only people we talked to about it was the store we bought the flooring from, the builder who removed the old floor and the council.
FYI, we replaced 40x90 ... er ... unjoists with 40x90 treated pine joists in the location the unjoists were before the termites ate them - it was pretty easy to see where the old joists used to be, there were still shards of them left. And replaced the mishmash of 22mm baltic/pine/mdf/chipboard/plywood with 22mm treated structurefloor (3600x800 tongue and groove stuff).
The original floor had joist spacings of about 3m, which is kinda higher than the 600mm it was supposed to have. There were a LOT of oregon joists that had been eaten, but the hardwood ones were fine.
The license is for contractors, a DYI'er is fine.
3m joist spacing? that would be a Uber bouncy floor. The standard spacing is 450mm, much above that the floor gets a bit springy. I did a radiata pine floor the other day and the floor joist spacings were upto 750mm which was a hassle because the sanding machines start bouncing across the surface creating all sorts of problems.
3m joist spacing? that would be a Uber bouncy floor. The standard spacing is 450mm, much above that the floor gets a bit springy. I did a radiata pine floor the other day and the floor joist spacings were upto 750mm which was a hassle because the sanding machines start bouncing across the surface creating all sorts of problems.
For 19mm they want 450mm, for 22mm you can go to 600 spacing (we had to order the 22mm flooring special, they usually stock 19mm).
The issue was termites had eaten most of the joists in two of the rooms so there was barely 2 joists per room. The other rooms had hardwood joists at 600 spacings. And yeah, VERY bouncy
The house was treated for termites ages ago and someone had replaced some parts of the joists with pine and some of the damaged baltic with new pine, mdf and particleboard, but it was bouncy, uneven and awful. After we were done with it the place now has lovely level floors with no bounce, no gaps under the skirtings, and nice new carpet.
here's some thoughts on values - I went to see a guy I know last night who has just bought a flash new house.... wife hated polished concrete so they carpeted over most of it eek that stuff is the most expensive floor covering you can spend your money on! I was excited about the c-bus and they said it sucked and they wished it was just a normal switch as they can't read what the panels say and it's all too hard. Finally I was excited to see the ethanol fireplace.... but they hate it. not enough heat so they have an electric heater in front of it.
really interesting to see the value of some of this stuff in practice.
eek that stuff is the most expensive floor covering you can spend your money on! I was excited about the c-bus and they said it sucked and they wished it was just a normal switch as they can't read what the panels say and it's all too hard. Finally I was excited to see the ethanol fireplace.... but they hate it. not enough heat so they have an electric heater in front of it. really interesting to see the value of some of this stuff in practice.
Ummm... so they bought the house why, precisely?wife hated polished concrete so they carpeted over most of it
It sounds like they've devalued it by at least $50K already...
Ummm... so they bought the house why, precisely?
It sounds like they've devalued it by at least $50K already...
well... original list price $2.4m. buy price $1.1m.
Well, THAT's a good reason. LOL
Yeah.... but was it ever really worth $2.4M?
Yes you can do whats called a maintenance coat. Which is essentially a buff and refinish of the floor. The sander runs over the floor with large orbital sander (like a cleaner) with a very fine grit (150 - 200), this just scuffs the surface and then recoats the floor - looks like new and much cheaper ($10 per sqm or so)
Note. The floor needs to cleaned thoroughly with turps etc. There cant be any build up of wax cleaners and so on. Most importantly the new coat should match the existing coat (although a water based finish can go over a solvent based, you cant go the other way around)
yep, 18 months ago anyway. I also know the construction price alone was a tad shy of $1m. and a couple of hours after his offer was accepted another came in several hundred k higher. anyway - public forum, shouldn't get into too much detail, other than to say I am very envious and he did very nicely for himself... and I would have loved the concrete floors, ethanol fireplace and cbus!!!
thanks - will probbaly do this then. so is it a case of it shoul dbe done to maintain it? or can you let it go and just do it in a few years time?
