Another floor board question

Thanks Namtrak, sounds great.

Longshot, but you wouldn't have anyone in Melbourne you could recommend for sanding, staining etc would you?
 
namtrak, I like bamboo flooring - for its eco credentials, cost, appearance, hardness, etc - but I don't like that it's pre-finished and thus all the grooves are visible.

I've had a local supplier offer me a batch of bamboo seconds - which are seconds because of poor quality finishing - which I could afford to have laid, then sanded back and re-finished in situ - for about the price of regular bamboo firsts, or only a bit more, perhaps $120/m2 complete.

Any thoughts on this as an option?
 
^I love the look of bamboo. One thing to be aware of though is that it does get bleached by uv. This will happen with timber to some extent but not like I've seen the colour difference with bamboo. May not be an issue for you, but it would annoy me not being able to put rugs down in a bright room for fear of always needing to replace with the same sizes rug to cover the dark patch.
 
^I love the look of bamboo. One thing to be aware of though is that it does get bleached by uv. This will happen with timber to some extent but not like I've seen the colour difference with bamboo. May not be an issue for you, but it would annoy me not being able to put rugs down in a bright room for fear of always needing to replace with the same sizes rug to cover the dark patch.


Just in addition to this, all timber will darken when exposed to UV, not bleach (I'm assuming you were thinking it may get lighter?)
Pre-finished bamboo, as well as most engineered pre-finished boards are already UV treated in the factory, so should not darken up too much when exposed to light, however it will still happen, there is no getting around it fully.

Ozperp - there was a raw bamboo product on the market that required finishing a few years ago...it's been a while since I was in the game. Just be aware that you will never be able to replicate the almost perfect finish that the pre-finished product has, as they are finished in a controlled, dustless environment, without any small bugs wishing to commit suicide to land in the wet coating etc...

Boods
 
What sort of pine? Assuming radiata - then a walnut, ebony, mahogany type stains will get it darker. There are also some finishes that are the stain/finish in one. I can do my homework and check which ones.

You should check with the flooring guy about his/her experience staining floors - it is a difficult job to do correctly.

Yep, namtrak, it's a 60s floor and would be radiata. I want the darkest floor possible. I figured it would be a tricky job.

Scott
 
namtrak, I like bamboo flooring - for its eco credentials, cost, appearance, hardness, etc - but I don't like that it's pre-finished and thus all the grooves are visible.

I've had a local supplier offer me a batch of bamboo seconds - which are seconds because of poor quality finishing - which I could afford to have laid, then sanded back and re-finished in situ - for about the price of regular bamboo firsts, or only a bit more, perhaps $120/m2 complete.

Any thoughts on this as an option?

I haven't installed or finished bamboo so I cant really comment on it as a product. Google is your friend I guess.
 
Post War HW Floor

Hi Namtrak,

I have an old post war which I am in the process of renovating. I was hoping you could give me some advice with regards to the floorboards.

There are a few areas where you can see through the joins and I was wondering if there was a good way to seal them up without spoiling the look of the floor above. I think the boards are Brushbox but can't be sure (they are quite red in colour).

I was thinking of filling from underneath (it's a high set Queenslander). The boards do flex a fair bit when walked on and I have seen on other floors that any fill that becomes dislodged looks terrible. I was going to leave the open joints above and just fill the damaged areas.

Looking at previous posts I really like the matt finish of the Whittle Wax. Would you recommend something like that?

regards

Argentum
 
.........There are a few areas where you can see through the joins and I was wondering if there was a good way to seal them up without spoiling the look of the floor above..........

.........I think the boards are Brushbox but can't be sure (they are quite red in colour).

................The boards do flex a fair bit when walked on and I have seen on other floors that any fill that becomes dislodged looks terrible.


.......................Looking at previous posts I really like the matt finish of the Whittle Wax. Would you recommend something like that?

There are a few ways to fill the gaps, try running slivers of timber (brushbox if that is the floor into the gaps) and gluing them in with wood glue, they can then be sanded down and should match in fairly well.

For ID send in a pic, or take an offcut into a timber mob.

The flexing is a problem, the joists could be too far apart. If the boards are sitting direct onto the joists the gap should be 300mm, however they are most likely 400+.

I just put the matt finish onto a Jarrah floor, maybe think about the Satin as it draws out the floor a bit more. The matt is more for a floor which is in poor nick and you want to hide blemishes.
 
'Evening All,

We are having Sydney Blue Gum 'Colonial' boards with knot holes and natural features residual (supplied by Hyne Flooring -Maryborough Qld.) put down in our PPOR in Hervey Bay.

My initial preference was to go with a high gloss finish on the pink/red tinged timber, but talking with our builder today he warned me off gloss and to stick with a matt / satin finish due to foot prints, dust and traffic showing through constantly unless polished regularly.

He has a matt finish on the flooring in his own house and swears by it (6yr old & 12 yr old kids.....junior has ride on toys etc.).

Can anyone put forward a strong recommendation in support of a gloss finish to sway me off matt? I'd hate to think the gloss samples we based our decision on will leave us feeling like going to Thailand and meeting up with an absolute stunning local girl only to find she's got a full set of block & tackle after you've already handed over the cash and you're stuck with it. :eek:

We have 10yr old & 12 yr old boys and all timber will be in very high trafficked areas including passages & kitchen, so it's going to cop a flogging.

Cheers,

Ian.
 
I can't really give objective advice to a Port supporter - but here goes.

Gloss is the De rigeur of floor finishes and has been for many years.

A well finished and laid Glossed floor is a great spectacle, however as your builder is intimating it is a very unforgiving finish, particularly under bright downlights.

I tend to lean towards satin finishes nowadays. However I do think High Gloss timber finishes are still relevant, particularly in some of the post modern designs around now and some of the more exacting renovations.

Having said that though, with your floor already being 'feature' grade I would possibly lean towards a Satin or Matt finish
 
Thanks Namtrak and particulalry for taking the time to enter into dialogue with a Port supporter (you really must have baulked at the prospect) ;)

.......yeah, wasn't sure about the finish......I sanded off the gloss after I stole the boards out of the house up the road (Crows supporters) only 'cause I ripped off two tins of satin finish from local hardware store under my Port Power duffle coat (hard work when it's 35 degrees C.). Now I know where I can rip off a big tin of gloss and some brushes; bloke down the pub tried to flogg 'em during the meat tray raffle tonight so I figured I'd roll him in the car park later.....that's what I call buying wholesale.....you make ya profit when ya buy hey!!

:D
 
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