2010 SUV recommendations

Y33 said:
The only time people cant really see past a 4WD is when they are travelling too close to it.
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On your average 50-60kph street travelling 3 seconds behind the car in front there is noticeable loss of visibility. Behind a normal car you’re looking through their windows to the road in front. Behind your average 4WD you’re looking right into the tailgate. Try it out next time you’re in an average sized vehicle.

Unfortunately the onus is not just on you to leave a safe distance. In a city like Sydney in peak hour traffic, a safe distance is very quickly filled by someone who would prefer that slot and is less concerned about stopping distances. I’m sure you see my point should that vehicle be something you can’t see around.
 
WinstonWolfe said:

My treat this year will be a new road bicycle. Am looking at picking up a titanium frame on my next trip to the USA.
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Do tell WW - Moots, Lynskey, Litespeed, Merlin?

Any reason you don't like the local Ti stuff - Baum, Thylacine, et al?

Personally I'm thinking of trying a Chinese XACD offering due to the price - a bit of a risk of course but you never know your luck! Still tossing up between that and a good Columbus tubed steelie...
 
HiEquity said:
Do tell WW - Moots, Lynskey, Litespeed, Merlin?

Any reason you don't like the local Ti stuff - Baum, Thylacine, et al?

Personally I'm thinking of trying a Chinese XACD offering due to the price - a bit of a risk of course but you never know your luck! Still tossing up between that and a good Columbus tubed steelie...
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From what I've heard and read, Lynskey/Litespeed have refined the technology better than anyone else and are excellent on custom geometries. They therefore use a lighter gauge tube than others afaik. Haven't compared prices recently, but I'd think the US frames would be cheaper than Aussie sourced thx to fx.

I also want a custom build as I have long legs and short trunk, and prefer :
- high seat for almost full knee extension (reduces load on patellofemoral joint)
- ball of feet and knees slightly in front of the pedal axles = cleat and seat futher forward. This helps recruit gluteal muscles moreso, and helps unload quads and achilles tendon.
- drop bar hand position 5-6cm below seat height for a more upright position and less lumbar flexion.
- seat tilted 7mm down at front (also reduces lumbar flexion)
- I use cleat wedges, the right being thicker than the left due to weaker right ankle.

I am a physiotherapist and I don't know an Aussie manufacturer, coach, or fitter who knows how to accommodate ageing bodies well or would have the experience creating the right geometry.

My local bike pro says the Chinese use a thicker gauge which doesn't offer as much of a weight advantage.
 
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Hi Winston
I think the camera is pretty good with reversing, I take note of the distance of the object from the bumper bar which you can see.
I'm planning on getting my windows tinted soon and have a hook up for the reverse sensor cheap.
Are Mazda installing the reverse sensors for you or are you going after market?
 
WinstonWolfe said:
I am a physiotherapist and I don't know an Aussie manufacturer, coach, or fitter who knows how to accommodate ageing bodies well or would have the experience creating the right geometry.
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Have you tried Steve Hogg in Sydney? Seems to have a good rap from people I have heard from. A quick google will see a few positive testimonials... He can advise on new bike geometries as well as fit up an existing bike.

WinstonWolfe said:
My local bike pro says the Chinese use a thicker gauge which doesn't offer as much of a weight advantage.
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Agreed. I'm not racing nor in any particular hurry so not a huge problem for me. I like the thicker idea as I value longevity and bigger safety margins over light weight and speed.

On that basis I should probably buy a Thorn Raven Sport Tour with Rohloff hub and never have to buy a bike again! Built like a Sherman tank but not the fastest thing in the world... :eek:
 
Minx said:
Hi Winston
I think the camera is pretty good with reversing, I take note of the distance of the object from the bumper bar which you can see.
I'm planning on getting my windows tinted soon and have a hook up for the reverse sensor cheap.
Are Mazda installing the reverse sensors for you or are you going after market?
Click to expand...

Mazda are doing the sensors, and I accept they'll probably skimp on quality, but we couldn't justify running around lining up after market stuff.

The Tiguan had some great features. It can reverse parallel park itself. Amazing stuff.
 
HiEquity said:
Have you tried Steve Hogg in Sydney? Seems to have a good rap from people I have heard from. A quick google will see a few positive testimonials... He can advise on new bike geometries as well as fit up an existing bike.

Have had several 'fitting' conversations with Steve, and have no confidence in his knowledge of anatomy and biomechanics. I honestly don't know how he retains his reputation. AFAIK he hasn't been educated formally in any field of science, and he espouses several theories that are just plain wrong.

The guy with the best rep in Qld is a physio, Leon Vogels. He is apparently the best for racers (never met him as he is in Europe a lot), but fitting a recreational cyclist with a dodgey back or knees is a different ball game. I've had enough musculoskeletal trauma and pain, and fitting of ageing cyclists to have better insight than most....
Agreed. I'm not racing nor in any particular hurry so not a huge problem for me. I like the thicker idea as I value longevity and bigger safety margins over light weight and speed.

I agree there's sense in a frame being around for 40 years......though once you've had a light responsive one.......
I still have the touring bike I bought when 22 in the US....a Schwinn. Still goes well....


On that basis I should probably buy a Thorn Raven Sport Tour with Rohloff hub and never have to buy a bike again! Built like a Sherman tank but not the fastest thing in the world... :eek:
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I kind of accept as I get older I won't be able to flex as far forwards.....so if I can get 7-10 years out of my next frame, I'll be happy. Plus hopefully cranks and geometries, and seats will have evolved to something better.

My next toys are a top of the line garmin computer (though will wait till early 2011) and one of the new ANT power meters that fit either under your cleat or in your shoe. Power is the purest way to measure energy expenditure and performance.

 
WinstonWolfe said:
From what I've heard and read, Lynskey/Litespeed have refined the technology better than anyone else and are excellent on custom geometries. They therefore use a lighter gauge tube than others afaik. Haven't compared prices recently, but I'd think the US frames would be cheaper than Aussie sourced thx to fx.

I also want a custom build as I have long legs and short trunk, and prefer :
- high seat for almost full knee extension (reduces load on patellofemoral joint)
- ball of feet and knees slightly in front of the pedal axles = cleat and seat futher forward. This helps recruit gluteal muscles moreso, and helps unload quads and achilles tendon.
- drop bar hand position 5-6cm below seat height for a more upright position and less lumbar flexion.
- seat tilted 7mm down at front (also reduces lumbar flexion)
- I use cleat wedges, the right being thicker than the left due to weaker right ankle.

I am a physiotherapist and I don't know an Aussie manufacturer, coach, or fitter who knows how to accommodate ageing bodies well or would have the experience creating the right geometry.

My local bike pro says the Chinese use a thicker gauge which doesn't offer as much of a weight advantage.
Click to expand...

Gees,

From your post, I kind of gathered you were some sort of medico / physio / chiro or a freak motor mechanic:)

F
 
ok, no more off topic cycle talk.......but to bast(e)rdize Lance Armstrong

"It's not about the SUV" :)

It's about the sport facilitated by the utilitarian traits of the vehicle....hence Sports Utility Vehicle.
 
Hi Urban ........

in old time Sydney theyd probably call u a Pitt St Farmer : )

from my generation, British cars in general are quirky, and Land Rover product especially, its great while it works and a PAIN when it fails. Goes back to S2 S3 land rover days...............go and watch some Leyland Bros vids.......way b4 bush travel was fashionable,

I cant comment on the reliability of the current crop of product, but having spent weeks solo in places like the Simpson, you wont catch me without a old style Toyo or Nissan diesel.

I recall a mate of mine who is a staunch disco supporter...........its not that they are unreliable, its just their parts wear out faster........

Those Humber Super Snipes were a great car.....

ta
rolf
 
comes down to requirements Rolf - few people play leyland brothers and if they did I think the car would be a lot different to a school bus style vehicle. personally i couldnt think of anythign worse than trundling around in a banged up nissan diesel 4x4
 
Rolf Latham said:
Hi Urban ........

in old time Sydney theyd probably call u a Pitt St Farmer : )

I cant comment on the reliability of the current crop of product, but having spent weeks solo in places like the Simpson, you wont catch me without a old style Toyo or Nissan diesel...

Those Humber Super Snipes were a great car.....

ta
rolf
Click to expand...


Heya Rolf...

nah mate I come from the real breed of farmer, whilst I won't mind having a spin on pitt street, I like getting them dirty too!!

yeah the older discos were a heap of (*&^%$ but the current crop are spectacular in their ability and reliability. yes the parts are still british and don't last as long, but they do a damn fine job whilst there going :D

I am running around in a 10yr old prado at the moment, give me the disco anyday!!


p.s. My uncle had a humber - loved that thing!!!! what a TANK!:p
 
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