A few general Painting questions

hi everyone, I just have a few general paitning questions, after doing a paint job recently. Im looking at cheaper properties in fairly rough areas so it doesnt have to be a perfect job, budget > quality of finish

1. my family members who have painted before and friends all say, "a 2bdr house you could paint in a day or too", based on that I estimated 2-3 days, how wrong was I, it took 1 painter 7 days plus hired a 2nd guy for half those times with me helping with skirts and the fiddly jobs. What is a realistic timeframe

2. I found that whenver you were doing doors etc, painter would roll the doors and brush the bits around the handles etc, but the finish of the brush vs roller were always noticeable, is this normal, and how do you get around it without removing the handles

3. Is it better to remove doors or just paint them on the hinges

4. Went down to the paint shop and they really recommended me a $550 paint sprayer for future use, apparently, I can do a whole house in 1-1.5 days, but it understandly will take twice as long to tape the edges etc. What is the finish like?

5. As for colour, assuming im going a tint of white, if im budget conscious, is it ok to do the ceiling and walls the same colour, and the skirts a gloss? or even the same colour for ceiling, wall and skirts???

6. If i were to do them all 3 a different colour, which is the best order, is it ceiling then wall then skirts?

7. I was told that every thing must be sealed once or twice, surely if the skirts or even walls were a similar white, would you need 1 or even 2 coats of sealer??? I found that we had to seal skirts twice because they were brown

8. for the walls, we sanded it down by hand using sand paper on a pole, I thought it may have been more efficienty with a machine

9. Are there any great tips for saving $$$ and time for these cheaper type of properties
such as this HA HA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9MAmWnOznI

Thanks everyone
 
1) One day per room. Your family members are idiots :) So if you have 3 bedrooms, a lounge and kitchen, 5 days, for a pro painter. I had a 2br villa done a month ago by my pro painter, was 3 days total which included ceilings, walls, 7 doors, bathroom, laundry and door trims. No skirt or architraves which would have added another 1-2 days.

2) Removing handles is the preferred method, roll right over the gaps. Ensure they holes are vacuumed out and clear of debris otherwise this will catch on the roller.

3) Paint on hinges is easy.

4) Unless its a good quality airles spraygun, dont bother

5) You can do ceilings and walls the same if you like, but it can make a room look smaller.

6) Work your waly down. Ceilings then walls then doors then trim/skirt. I do ceilings with ceiling flat white, walls in low sheen and trim in the same colour as walls but gloss. Dries a bit darker than the walls and gives contrast, plus makes cutting in not need to be as precise for a quick tart up job.

7) No need to seal unless you are changing colours drastically, or doing oil over water/vice versa

8) Pole sander is the fastest way. However the key to any good paint job is preparation. You can add a day or two just for prep if you want to do a top notch job.
 
hi everyone, I just have a few general paitning questions, after doing a paint job recently. Im looking at cheaper properties in fairly rough areas so it doesnt have to be a perfect job, budget > quality of finish

1. my family members who have painted before and friends all say, "a 2bdr house you could paint in a day or too", based on that I estimated 2-3 days, how wrong was I, it took 1 painter 7 days plus hired a 2nd guy for half those times with me helping with skirts and the fiddly jobs. What is a realistic timeframe


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Thanks everyone

In my experience it's windows, skirting and architraves (i.e., the trim) that take all the time. If they are in reasonable condition then perhaps the trim can be left as-is and just a coat over the walls and ceiling will be enough and save a HEAP of time.

I'm a perfectionist and take door and window furniture off before painting with a roller all-over. The fittings have often been previously painted over so I soak the chromed parts in sodium hydroxide (eg Draino) for a couple of hours and they come out looking brand new. If the original fittings or hinges were a bit wobbly I plug the screw holes with pva wood glue and toothpicks (leave to dry for a day or more) so that when they go back in they'll be solid for another couple of decades.

Oh, and I hate doors that don't fit right and scrape the floor or frame -- it usually wrecks the floor and the door. I plane the doors to fit before painting. If you do have non-fitting doors, check that the stumps/piers underneath are OK and fix if necessary. You don't want to plane the door to fit, then fix the piers and find the frame has moved and your original "fix" has made big gaps (and doing nothing would have provided a better result). :D

BTW estimates for painting usually never include the days spent deciding on the colour and the hours spent at the store waiting to get your paint mixed. LOL
 
Buy a cheap 1/3 sheet orbital sander and use this for the walls. Get one of those trestle steps thingies to stand on.

My last house I used a makita orbital sander that cost around $160. for the current one it is only interior and I purchased a small and very light 220W OZITO Random Orbital Sander, works like a charm, best $37 I ever spent. You will need a range of sand paper discs from grade 60 to 180+ but I'm finding if used properly 2x 60 grade will take care of most walls of a room if it's a little rough on the surface.

Painting is all about prep, my of my time is sanding and getting ready for the easy part, painting.....
 
Buy a cheap 1/3 sheet orbital sander and use this for the walls. Get one of those trestle steps thingies to stand on.

Or buy a good quality aluminium pole for the roller and attach a sanding head to it. You can do all the sanding from the ground quite easily using that method.
I then get the dust off thw walls by attaching a Grab It cloth to the sanding head and wiping the walls and ceilings down before painting.
 
1. my family members who have painted before and friends all say, "a 2bdr house you could paint in a day or too", based on that I estimated 2-3 days, how wrong was I, it took 1 painter 7 days plus hired a 2nd guy for half those times with me helping with skirts and the fiddly jobs. What is a realistic timeframe
This all depend on how experienced the painter is and if anyone else is around,rule of thumb is if you are helping or watching/talking it will take twice as long,

2. I found that whenver you were doing doors etc, painter would roll the doors and brush the bits around the handles etc, but the finish of the brush vs roller were always noticeable, is this normal, and how do you get around it without removing the handles
There is no secret to do this,so it is best to remove all hardware and you will get a better finish.

3. Is it better to remove doors or just paint them on the hinges

In a new home we remove all doors,but in an existing home with furniture and floor coverings,we remove the door handles and paint them hanging.

4. Went down to the paint shop and they really recommended me a $550 paint sprayer for future use, apparently, I can do a whole house in 1-1.5 days, but it understandly will take twice as long to tape the edges etc. What is the finish like?

I never use a sprayer to finish a job,just to help with undercoating,cornice,ceilings,besides a $550 spray-gun is a very cheap quality one so best not to do a repaint with that.Could come in handy with new work however as there is lots more undercoating

5. As for colour, assuming im going a tint of white, if im budget conscious, is it ok to do the ceiling and walls the same colour, and the skirts a gloss? or even the same colour for ceiling, wall and skirts???
It fine to do ceilings and walls the same color,in fact they will look like different colors when it is finished because of the shadow line.

6. If i were to do them all 3 a different colour, which is the best order, is it ceiling then wall then skirts?
All undercoating first,then ceilings followed by walls and then the glosswork.

7. I was told that every thing must be sealed once or twice, surely if the skirts or even walls were a similar white, would you need 1 or even 2 coats of sealer??? I found that we had to seal skirts twice because they were brown
They are talking about new work where sealing must be done,in a repaint such as yours,no undercoat is necessary unless you are going over a dark color or applying a dark color.

8. for the walls, we sanded it down by hand using sand paper on a pole, I thought it may have been more efficienty with a machine
In a repaint such as yours,no sanding is necessary until you put a first coat of paint on,hand sanding is by far the most efficient with a pole using 180 grit white paper.

9. Are there any great tips for saving $$$ and time for these cheaper type of properties
such as this HA HA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9MAmWnOznI

I laughed my head off when I watched this,thanks for sharing :D

Thanks everyone

...................................................
 
The Mr Bean clip reminded me of a painting tip, from the days when I painted myself rather than paying someone...

If you dont want to clean up every day, you can wrap your painting trays and brushes etc in glad wrap, without any gaps or holes and they wont go hard and the paint wont go dry.

That saves a lot of time, particularly when you are using the same colour on several rooms. To be honest, most of the time, we just threw away the paint trays/ brushes at the end of every job and never cleaned them. :eek::eek: We obviously didnt buy expensive brushes! :)
 
what is this pole sanding method, never heard of it before? I have this vision in my head of someone holding a pole like a long broom stick with a small flimsy sanding block tied to it with string and sandpaper wrapped around it :rolleyes:
 
pole sanders are great, ours has a vacuum attachment,
mesh grit screen sandpaper to allow the vac to draw the dust
I use a commercial sprayer, with power roller for finicky sh__ and can paint a 5 bedroom 2 bath 3 living room, 2 story + finished basement in 3 days.

doors off hinges knobs off doors painted gloss, stacked in garage

walls first, mask walls, ceiling, finish trims.
leaving the knobs on the doors, the painter thinks you are to stupid to notice the poor finish, he can get away with it.

no paint trays sprayer feeds from 5G bucket

takes 2 hours to put 3 coats on the outside of smaller 3 bed house, 4hours to mask, 1 hour to remove masking = 1 day

it is easier to paint the walls and then mask them to pain the ceiling, the plastic or cloth hangs down, only has to be attached at the top, if you paint the ceiling and mask IT, the mask has to hold up all the way round, all across the ceiling

power roller attaches to sprayer, not separate unit

Professional: How much wall can I do with this paint
Amateur: How much paint do I need for this wall
Professional: Titanic
Amateur: Ark
Professional: Hindenburg
Amateur: Montgolfier
 
I think most people here are painting homes under 5 years old. The places we have had to paint have old paint, peeling paint from previous bad jobs, holes in walls to be plastered etc etc. It could take one person 1 - 2 days alone just to sand and prepare one room. I wish we had it easy where we could just pull out a sprayer and blast a new wall down like you guys...
 
1882 house,
slightly more than 5 years old
removed lead base paint and finishes, refinish in acrylic
7 days, to sand prep mask prime paint

11 bedrooms, 12 bathrooms, 11 kitchens, 11 living rooms, 1 laundry,
12 foot ceilings
37 doors
28 10 foot windows
12 5 foot windows
3000sqft open basement

power pole sander
power hand sander
power floor sander, all with extractor & collectors
(TOYS she lets me buy TOYS)
a good tool rental 'guy' sand and water blaster as well
easy as
 
Obviously people are having issues with what type of gear to buy to get a nice finish.

I want to tell everyone who will listen or have any kind of painting to do in the future to go and buy a couple of paint brushes called UNI-PRO Smooth Coat

http://www.unipro.com.au/applicatio...e=flypage.tpl&product_id=1015&category_id=144

These brushes only sell for around $10-12 each at paint place shops and some times can be found in packs,they are the best on the market.These can be used straight in oil based paints and also magic in acrylic.They will outlast all others and one brush will do around 10 houses.

Do not get distracted by any other brush thinking they are better.:rolleyes:
You will need two 63mm only and perhaps a smaller one for fiddly areas.
One for water paint and one for oil,and yes they can be washed out and used in either but they don't last as long.

The roller sleeve you will need for painting enamel (oil based)doors is also from unipro called "The One" Micro-Fibre 10mm nap.This roller will not leave foreign objects on you doors.(Wash first with turps and watch the first door)

http://www.unipro.com.au/applicatio...ge=flypage.tpl&product_id=1265&category_id=99

I hope this helps some of you. :)
 
Obviously people are having issues with what type of gear to buy to get a nice finish.

I want to tell everyone who will listen or have any kind of painting to do in the future to go and buy a couple of paint brushes called UNI-PRO Smooth Coat

http://www.unipro.com.au/applicatio...e=flypage.tpl&product_id=1015&category_id=144

thanks, I will check them out.

As for doing an interior apartment. I was only going to use a roller on the ceilings as I find with rollers I use a lot more paint. Is there anything wrong with using a brush for general walls etc compared to a roller? I will be painting low sheen, acrylic and it will be thinned with several coats including several coats of undercoat first as the walls were a little rough in places.
 
thanks, I will check them out.

As for doing an interior apartment. I was only going to use a roller on the ceilings as I find with rollers I use a lot more paint. Is there anything wrong with using a brush for general walls etc compared to a roller? I will be painting low sheen, acrylic and it will be thinned with several coats including several coats of undercoat first as the walls were a little rough in places.

You will need to use a roller for the broad areas and a brush for the corners and cutting in.
You could use a brush on the walls but quality and time is obviously the problem.
 
You will need to use a roller for the broad areas and a brush for the corners and cutting in.
You could use a brush on the walls but quality and time is obviously the problem.

Ok thanks for the feedback, will probably try a roller then for the main part of the walls..
 
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