Drummy rendering?
- Thread starter jennyn
- Start date
Rendering
Drummy render over concrete, no bonding bridge used
I got this explanation from: 50 common defects
Hope it helps. I assume it should have a bonding bridge ?
Drummy render over concrete, no bonding bridge used
I got this explanation from: 50 common defects
Hope it helps. I assume it should have a bonding bridge ?
Jennyn
It sounds to me, from the info I have read, that the walls need some work done on them, to rectify the faulty rendering.
I think the term drummy means: sounds like a drum when tapped, ie: hollow-ish.
Give your building inspector a call to confirm exactly what he meant.
It sounds to me, from the info I have read, that the walls need some work done on them, to rectify the faulty rendering.
I think the term drummy means: sounds like a drum when tapped, ie: hollow-ish.
Give your building inspector a call to confirm exactly what he meant.
The other posts are correct. The render has lost adhesion with the wall. These cracks you mention, do they run the full length of the wall? If not they are probably shrinkage cracks. These commonly occur when the render dries too quickly and shrinks. In this process the render can loose adhesion with the bricks. A lot of rendering jobs suffer this and it might be ok for years or fall off soon. Has any come off? I wouldn’t necessarily reach for the panic button…………..
I've only been there twice because the tenant is difficult but I'm getting vacant possession. I didn't see any cracks. We have big cracks at home so I looked for obvious cracks and didn't see any.
The report says 1-2mm cracks and to drummy render so I was wondering how you did it and if you could just slap on some no more cracks or something like that and then put undercoat and top coat on.
The report says 1-2mm cracks and to drummy render so I was wondering how you did it and if you could just slap on some no more cracks or something like that and then put undercoat and top coat on.
Paint will bridge small gaps (less than 1 mm). Keep rollering it until it’s gone.
Bigger gaps I just use spakfilla and sand it when it’s dry. Don’t use glass paper. Use aluminium oxide paper it’s sharper and lasts longer (less hard work). Dont attempt mid wall repairs with no more gaps as it can look terrible.
Note that if this is a movement crack that it will probably open up down the track. If it’s a shrinkage crack you’ll probably not have to deal with it again.
Good luck
Bigger gaps I just use spakfilla and sand it when it’s dry. Don’t use glass paper. Use aluminium oxide paper it’s sharper and lasts longer (less hard work). Dont attempt mid wall repairs with no more gaps as it can look terrible.
Note that if this is a movement crack that it will probably open up down the track. If it’s a shrinkage crack you’ll probably not have to deal with it again.
Good luck
Do NOT try to bridge gaps with paint. Unless it is exterior grade paint (like solagard or weathershield - i.e. really flexible) it will shrink when dry and your cracks will reappear again - just matter of time.
Do NOT use spakfilla on small cracks. It does not go deep enough to patch small crack reliably, it is messy and expensice too.
ALWAYS use acrylic gap filler (no more gaps) for small cracks, but do it in intelligent way. Squeeze sone from the tube into some container (cut PET bottle is ideal) add same volume of water and mix. Work diluted gap filler into gaps using paint brush, sponge or cloth, remove excess with a damp sponge or damp cloth. Check in 2 hours. If gap filler shrank, add some right from the tube, and smooth it with the wet brush or sponge.
Do NOT use spakfilla on small cracks. It does not go deep enough to patch small crack reliably, it is messy and expensice too.
ALWAYS use acrylic gap filler (no more gaps) for small cracks, but do it in intelligent way. Squeeze sone from the tube into some container (cut PET bottle is ideal) add same volume of water and mix. Work diluted gap filler into gaps using paint brush, sponge or cloth, remove excess with a damp sponge or damp cloth. Check in 2 hours. If gap filler shrank, add some right from the tube, and smooth it with the wet brush or sponge.
Hey Multi,
So the myriad of small hairline cracks render sometimes get you suggest to fill every single one with no more gaps? How many months do you allow for repairs / renovations to a tenanted property? If it was my PPOR I could fiddle fuddle around for years and it wouldn’t matter but this is an investment property!
I try to keep my places tenanted with very low downtime (isn’t that the aim?).
For one off repairs spakfilla is fine. The extra $2 is no biggie.
So the myriad of small hairline cracks render sometimes get you suggest to fill every single one with no more gaps? How many months do you allow for repairs / renovations to a tenanted property? If it was my PPOR I could fiddle fuddle around for years and it wouldn’t matter but this is an investment property!
I try to keep my places tenanted with very low downtime (isn’t that the aim?).
For one off repairs spakfilla is fine. The extra $2 is no biggie.
Hi Cosmo.
Do the elementary math. Say there is one myriad of small cracks.
To repair them with "No more gaps" for each crack it takes two strokes od a paintbrush dipped in diluted "No more gaps", in other words, two myriads brushstrokes in total.
To do the same with spakfilla you need two strokes of spatula followed by ten strokes of sand paper, or 12 myriads strokes.
Plus you get big clean up job on your hand. Plus you need to wash the wall after this unless you want really crappy paintjob because of the dust that stuck to the wall.
In other words, average bedroom I can cover in "No more gaps" in less than two hours TOTALLY. Try to do that with spakfilla.
Not to mention that if any further shrinkage/movement occurs spakfilla repaired wall will have at least half a myriad cracks again (0 flexibility). "No more gaps" can withstand up to 10% expansion (not to mention new brands that give you up to 20%).
Do the elementary math. Say there is one myriad of small cracks.
To repair them with "No more gaps" for each crack it takes two strokes od a paintbrush dipped in diluted "No more gaps", in other words, two myriads brushstrokes in total.
To do the same with spakfilla you need two strokes of spatula followed by ten strokes of sand paper, or 12 myriads strokes.
Plus you get big clean up job on your hand. Plus you need to wash the wall after this unless you want really crappy paintjob because of the dust that stuck to the wall.
In other words, average bedroom I can cover in "No more gaps" in less than two hours TOTALLY. Try to do that with spakfilla.
Not to mention that if any further shrinkage/movement occurs spakfilla repaired wall will have at least half a myriad cracks again (0 flexibility). "No more gaps" can withstand up to 10% expansion (not to mention new brands that give you up to 20%).
To tell you the truth multi I agree with you!!!!!
If the crack is active you need something flexible in there to take the movement BUT I have tried your way with very limited success. Sure the cracks gone but its ugly. No more gaps shrinks over the first few weeks of application and about a month down the track needs a top up to look good or its very noticeable. If you smear it against the wall during application it is easily seen as a texture change under the paint. As for recommending this technique to a rank ammeter renovator (Jennym)…….hmmm.
I might just add, you’ve got to define the crack you’re repairing. Is it active or non-active. If its non-active (eg render shrinkage) you can fill it with something non flexible eg spakfilla. If it’s small enough just paint it.
If its active the only long-term repair might be something flexible eg no more gaps. I can always get a top-notch job with spakfilla and a very ordinary job on mid wall repairs using no more gaps.
If I’m selling soon I’d spakky the joint.
Each to their own
(Let's not turn this into a p*ssing competition Multi.......see ya)
If the crack is active you need something flexible in there to take the movement BUT I have tried your way with very limited success. Sure the cracks gone but its ugly. No more gaps shrinks over the first few weeks of application and about a month down the track needs a top up to look good or its very noticeable. If you smear it against the wall during application it is easily seen as a texture change under the paint. As for recommending this technique to a rank ammeter renovator (Jennym)…….hmmm.
I might just add, you’ve got to define the crack you’re repairing. Is it active or non-active. If its non-active (eg render shrinkage) you can fill it with something non flexible eg spakfilla. If it’s small enough just paint it.
If its active the only long-term repair might be something flexible eg no more gaps. I can always get a top-notch job with spakfilla and a very ordinary job on mid wall repairs using no more gaps.
If I’m selling soon I’d spakky the joint.
Each to their own
(Let's not turn this into a p*ssing competition Multi.......see ya)
Cosmo,
The word is "diagonally". If you brush diagonally to the crack, result is great and no thing as "texture change" ever happens.
if you brush along the crack, it fills good, but surface is not good enough - crack wil still be visible.
If you brush across - you bridge crack over the surface, but don't fill it.
If you leave it for 5 minutes without brushing - then you wil get an ugly wall.
So there is no rocket science - brush diagonally, smooth it straight away while it is fresh.
Try it - you never would want to buy another packet of spakfilla.
The word is "diagonally". If you brush diagonally to the crack, result is great and no thing as "texture change" ever happens.
if you brush along the crack, it fills good, but surface is not good enough - crack wil still be visible.
If you brush across - you bridge crack over the surface, but don't fill it.
If you leave it for 5 minutes without brushing - then you wil get an ugly wall.
So there is no rocket science - brush diagonally, smooth it straight away while it is fresh.
Try it - you never would want to buy another packet of spakfilla.
Guys, be careful with watering down no gaps.
Push no gaps into cracks with your thumb or fingers (buy a box of disposablegloves) and then wipe of with a damp cloth. Thats it then paint. Not rocket science. Oh and if you can't get a good job using this technique, i suggest you employ a painter.
gecho
Push no gaps into cracks with your thumb or fingers (buy a box of disposablegloves) and then wipe of with a damp cloth. Thats it then paint. Not rocket science. Oh and if you can't get a good job using this technique, i suggest you employ a painter.
gecho
I second Gecho1's view.
I NEVER water down gap fillers (and buy it in boxes of 20 to save money...have used an entire box & still not finished gap filling the current reno).
I use the thumb/fingers technique & as I enjoyed peeling glue off my fingers when a kid, generally don't wear the gloves
For larger gaps it's worth doing a second go-round as well as there can be 'subsistence' in the no-more gaps (leaving a small indentation).
Cheers,
Aceyducey
I NEVER water down gap fillers (and buy it in boxes of 20 to save money...have used an entire box & still not finished gap filling the current reno).
I use the thumb/fingers technique & as I enjoyed peeling glue off my fingers when a kid, generally don't wear the gloves
For larger gaps it's worth doing a second go-round as well as there can be 'subsistence' in the no-more gaps (leaving a small indentation).
Cheers,
Aceyducey
