How to determine a structural wall?

We're going ahead with a basic reno on our Brisbane property - new Bathroom, new/second hand kitchen, and second hand laminate flooring in the living room. Possibly adding air con but waiting to see how long the long term interest free offers last.

Last reno we did was easy - we knew there were no structural walls, getting under the house was easy(ish), we had the help of a great builder in deciding what to do.

This one the bathroom is very odd (powder enclave with shower coming off one side and toilet off the other with only saloon style doors/gates). I'm concerned that one of these may be a structural wall (either that or the original owner had very odd ideas about bathroom design). Are there any ways of determining this without bringing in an engineer? (or are there any signs I should look for that may indicate a structural wall?)
 
Is it a trussed framed roof like this pic?
If so, only the outside walls would be load bearing.

If not, you could get a carpenter to check as some internal walls will be load bearing.
 

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We could tell easily in ours by going into the roof. The house was kind of trussed, but mostly was just massive beams spanning 10m. The loadbearing walls had huge stumps (more like trees) sitting on them and all the others were completely clear of the roofing timbers. Anyone could have hopped up there and seen that, but its not always that obvious ...
 
Thanks guys!

Battler - that's it! RElf - I'll use that tip - old Queenslander, I should be able to get into crawl space once we get there to check. :)
 
a structural wall is not just the walls that hold weight Amanda,, 'shame' you didnt call me.
As battler said but a little more.:cool:
 
Wish i was a tradie! Then i would already know this. next best thing to is get tradies to teach you things that are easy enough for anyone to do.

I am getting my builder to teach me heaps.

And my plumber as well think i can replace most taps myself.

Pity there are no short courses like these around run by tradies for renovators!
 
Last time we tried to replace a tap the sink broke into a dozen pieces and we had to buy a new sink. That's the last time we try to replace a 60 year old siezed up and rusted tap on an ancient ceramic sink. No tradie would have been able to do a better job, methinks.

I think it was a loadbearing tap :D
 
OK so how do we tell a load bearing wall in a 2 story cement rendered brick townhouse?
The roof is pitched but there is no way we can see between the 1st and 2nd floor:(
its just a little wall but it could make a big mess if l take it away:eek:
cheers
 
Is the wall up stairs or down? Most walls down stairs are there to hold the floor spans , but their might be a continuation of it to the roof.
1st determine what type of roof you have ie truss or cut.
2, try and create a mental picture and mentally follow the load from the top to the footings.

if its a difficult one get a pro in , i had a 2nd story extensiion that was anything but streight forward , even the engineer was dumstruck, but by mentally following through the load structures we worked it out.
 
Is the wall up stairs or down? Most walls down stairs are there to hold the floor spans , but their might be a continuation of it to the roof.
1st determine what type of roof you have ie truss or cut.
2, try and create a mental picture and mentally follow the load from the top to the footings.

if its a difficult one get a pro in , i had a 2nd story extensiion that was anything but streight forward , even the engineer was dumstruck, but by mentally following through the load structures we worked it out.

Thanks craigb, its a truss roof and l will do the mental walk through tomorrow to see if l can determine the load.
By the way whats a cut roof?
cheers
 
A cut roof is lots of rafters that have props halfway down them, this is how a traditional roof was built , ie pre trusses, 30 years ago, ? me thinks.
 
"cut roof" aka "stick rooves" are still the most common over here in WA.
I much prefered putting them up, as do I much prefer to live under one.

Easiest way to work these sorts of things out is to have a flick through the relative timber framing codes in your state. It's not rocket science, and you could pretty much jump up in the roof and have a look your self to see if it's load bearing. If a roof member lands on that particular wall, the job is to divert the load. Again, the code will help with this.
Depending on how handy you are with a circular saw/nail gun, you could divert the load onto other walls quite easily.

I don't recommend trying to conduct any sort of construction if you aren't sure though, so don't blame me if your hosue comes crashing down :D
 
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