Ideas for eco-friendly houses

3 years, is the repayment for thin-film solar panels, Thin film cells are not yet easily availableand location:NOT the hunter, North of 20[sup]o[/sup] lattitude
depending on cell type: not the crystalline cells sold

each generation of solar panels produces more energy for less industrial cost, rigid amorphous panels imported from China and sold with most of the advertised packages (that I have browsed, there may be some selling up-to-date stuff) are many generations outdated,.
still apply to rigid solar panels, amorphous polycrystalline or single-crystal

Next generation(or the one after) will be 1/10th cost to buy, make & everything, they are the ones to wait for, or look for now, to be green.
thin film cells can be used for walls roofs

bold by Bob
The bolded part above is probably why it is a better option in colder regions. Anybody have a lodge at Thredbo?

more info http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solar_cell

Hi AB

Thin film panels are very easily available in the large scale solar industry - lots of those around. But they are no real panacea - they are just over half the efficiency of "conventional" panels. This means you need almost twice the real estate in the sun to produce the same power. Which means more balance of plant infrastructure such as glass sandwich, steel frames, wiring / losses, installation costs, roof / ground space costs, etc etc. In practice this means it's a line ball comparison between this and other existing solar technologies, in either embodied energy or financial terms. Their performance also degrades much faster than conventional panels over their life - you can see just how much in the warranties the manufacturers provide.

BTW the multiple studies I referenced for the 1-3 year timeframe were mostly for conventional silicon panels.

The reason the Chinese chose conventional stuff and that it is still very competitive is that thin film technologies such as Cd-Te haven't beaten it yet. On next generation stuff I prefer not to talk about product that can't be bought yet. Every energy source has a "you-beaut" technology just around the corner that "might" blow apart the status quo, the vast majority of which fall into that massive chasm that sits between the laboratory and the real world. Despite a number of generations between conventional silicon and the current state of the art, the conventional silicon panel still invariably wins on a lifecycle basis in practice. Just like the internal combustion engine is still the one to beat for cars - I regularly see claims of imminent breakthroughs turn to dust in this field...

Agreed that geothermal is a better bet for colder regions but it still requires a load greater than one residence to amortise the cost of the drilling. BTW I think you'll also find that the numbers you bolded in that statement apply after you have paid off the capital cost of the drilling - unfortunately in the real world you also have to provide a return on that (not inconsiderable) capital. This is the perennial problem of nearly every renewable energy technology...
 
Hi lizzie
Your excitment is almost contagious.
The polished concrete floors look magnificent and are very easy to maintain however they are very very hard on your knees and hips.
New mums and 45yrs + are the main victims.
Ok if you are out 90% of the day but full time living on them is a whole different story.
Good luck with the build.
cheers

ps love the yacht
 
I'd be focusing on the basics rather than heat pumps, solar panels and other expensive gadgets. So insulation, thermal mass, air-tightness, orientation, etc.

These are likely to be cheaper and more effective.

The other thing that I was wondering was how hard would it be to import a kit from Huf Haus or Hanse Haus in Germany?

It should pack up into a few 40' containers, and the shipping cost for one of these is in the several thousand dollars range worldwide.
 
Hi lizzie
Your excitment is almost contagious.
The polished concrete floors look magnificent and are very easy to maintain however they are very very hard on your knees and hips.
New mums and 45yrs + are the main victims.
Ok if you are out 90% of the day but full time living on them is a whole different story.
Good luck with the build.
cheers

ps love the yacht

Thanks :eek:

Yep - have decided to go timber - possibly bamboo - over slab (carpet in the bedrooms) for warmth and softness underfoot.

Agree that having the house well insulated and draft free is the first key ... should I insulate internal walls as well? Does that make a difference?

We are 2 hours north of Sydney - so doesn't get real cold, but has a few weeks around 0 overnight in winter (great for apples). Summer can be hot for several weeks - but that's what the pool is for.
 
Some of the old homestead houses are quite cold in the summer ..compared to outside.
They should start building houses like them, No need for a/c.
 
We got lucky with our house, the designer did a good job on orientation and insulation. The shading is only 50/50 so a few windows get really hot in arvo or morning in summer but others are really well shaded. The windows could have opened further to get better air flow but as it is we have the curtains blowing around wildly fairly often, the cool air comes straight through the back and out the front pushing all the hot daytime air out the house, place can cool down in 1/2 hour if the arvo gully breeze kicks in, only about 7 days per year when it doesn't in the hot weather. So for the most part we don't use any air conditioning.

Shading, orientation, insulation, airflow, big opening windows, check out local breezes on the property (morning, evening).

Did the math and for us it works out cheaper to buy 100% wind power than to install solar. If solar drops more or becomes more efficient will have another look.

On the down side, the foil backed wall board (gyprock) seems to be causing interference with some cordless dect phones, the Ericsson ones we have had for 12 years work fine but are slowly dieing, the newer Uniden / Panasonic / etc that we have tried all have a hissy/crackle that could be from the foil. Other wireless stuff works so it might not be the foil but have turned all the other stuff off and the phones still sound crap.

LED or CFL for lighting, the halogens suck massive amounts of power, we are replacing all the halogen with LED and CFL.

Building material, we have no thermal mass in the house or walls, so it heats up and cools down very quickly, depending on air flow and open windows.

Parents house is light weight walls on outside and double brick internal walls. Doesn't seem to be that much difference in mild Adelaide.

Cheers
Graeme
 
Here's an introduction to the Passivhaus approach that you can download for free.

http://passivhaustrust.org.uk/news/detail/?nId=87

This is real hardcore green building. My brother, who's into green building, thinks that they go too far, and reckons an 80% approach is more cost effective.

Incidentally, the basic idea is that solar gain and the body heat of its inhabitants is sufficient to keep it warm in winter without heating. Obviously that's not such a requirement in Oz, where you don't know what cold weather is. :D
 
Your excitment is almost contagious.

At this moment (of packing) the most exciting part will be unpacking all those boxes in 12 months time!

The rental is about 1/3rd the size of current house, so a lot of really good "stuff" isn't going to see daylight for a while.

I agree that the majority will be orientation and insulation being where we are in Australia (not super hot and not super cold) ... and the old accounting adage of "spend 10% on getting the first 90% right - spend 90% on getting the last 10% right" is rather apt.

We'll work on 90%
 
At this moment (of packing) the most exciting part will be unpacking all those boxes in 12 months time!

The rental is about 1/3rd the size of current house, so a lot of really good "stuff" isn't going to see daylight for a while.

I agree that the majority will be orientation and insulation being where we are in Australia (not super hot and not super cold) ... and the old accounting adage of "spend 10% on getting the first 90% right - spend 90% on getting the last 10% right" is rather apt.

We'll work on 90%

We went from a 4 bedroom house to a 1 bed apt, so a lot of downsizing.

You may be surprised how much you won't want to unpack in 12 months.
 
Easiest 'green' thing to do: grow a big deciduous tree on the northern side of your house.
Cool in summer, warm in winter.
 
Obviously that's not such a requirement in Oz, where you don't know what cold weather is. :D


You'd probably be surprised at the minimums we can get in winter when you are inland. I can get weeks straight where it's minus 2 to minus 4 in the mornings. But then when there are frosts, it means it's clear and fine weather so it is likely to be sunny all day for a magnificent warm winters day.

I love a good frost in winter actually for the very reason I mentioned above.


See ya's.
 
Easiest 'green' thing to do: grow a big deciduo us tree on the northern side of your house.
Cool in summer, warm in winter.


Would that really be regarded as green though? I suspect only native tree's can be regarded as being green?

I did some big extensions on my house recently, and to meet the BASIC environmental requirements I needed some outdoor covers over a window. It was nuts as above the window was a massive clarret ash tree that gave 100% shade in summer and 95% sun in winter. But because it's an introduced tree, it was assumed as it wasn't even there. But if it was a eucalyptus tree, providing just 50% shade in summer, but also blocking 50% sun in winter, and being a fire risk, it would be counted.


This is a great thread I reckon.


See ya's.
 
Would that really be regarded as green though? I suspect only native tree's can be regarded as being green?

I did some big extensions on my house recently, and to meet the BASIC environmental requirements I needed some outdoor covers over a window. It was nuts as above the window was a massive clarret ash tree that gave 100% shade in summer and 95% sun in winter. But because it's an introduced tree, it was assumed as it wasn't even there. But if it was a eucalyptus tree, providing just 50% shade in summer, but also blocking 50% sun in winter, and being a fire risk, it would be counted.


This is a great thread I reckon.


See ya's.

Really? Now that's crazy...
 
Hi AB

Thin film panels are very easily available in the large scale solar industry - lots of those around. But they are no real panacea - they are just over half the efficiency of "conventional" panels. ...y...
just so you can tell what part of the thread I was replying to, waaaaaaaay back.

I refer to film, rolled flexible printed (printed is the part that got me) cells, just unroll and glue down, as not being available yet. Still in development, large cost benefits, no clean room, no large furnaces. slightly better power m[sup]-2[/sup] there was a reference in the thread to where they are in development, but that would take thought, not gunna think
'thin film' as thin slices of crystal wafer, framed in 2 glass sheets and metal straps, currently sold, not the same thing.

Geothermal, in our circumstance,
the building is already plumbed and radiator-ed for hydronic heating.
each unit has a 75w pump to move water through the radiators, and the main system has a 500w pump to move water through the mains pipes
compare a 375w refrigeration pump, to the 125kw equiv oil furnace, and the savings are huge.
The building is sitting on an enormous groundwater source, pull water out on one side, put it back on the other, open loop system weight of water going down helps pull water up, only a small pump. the whole province sits on a huge groundwater source, we have wells that run over in snow melt season, springs, one of our locations shares its aquefer with a spring water bottler, and even that does not effect the water table height
2 wells 60m deep,
wells are cheap to drill.
unlike in the op where they have to trench in pipe filled with heat-exch liquid/gas over a sufficient distance to get a rated heat extraction/absorbtion, much more cost
the town of 10000 gets drinking water from the groundwater, there is huge supply from snow melt and lots of rain​
 
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Hi Lizzie,

I am building a prefab European construction, starting soon. Very fast to construct and highly energy efficient, but without a high price tag.

Feel free to contact me if you are interested in more details and I can put you onto them.

My highly spec'd townhouses were similarly priced to quotes I was getting for a standard build, but it includes double glazing, european winter thickness walls, bifold doors, oak staircase, which the standard builds excluded. Construction takes about 1/3rd of the normal time.

It has thermal properties of:

External Wall Insulation Rating (R value) = 6.75 R
Ceiling And Roof Insulation Rating (R value) = 7.51 R
Windows and Doors Insulation Rating (R value) = 1.10 R

Cheers,
Matt
 
Hi Lizzie,

I am building a prefab European construction, starting soon. Very fast to construct and highly energy efficient, but without a high price tag.

Feel free to contact me if you are interested in more details and I can put you onto them.

My highly spec'd townhouses were similarly priced to quotes I was getting for a standard build, but it includes double glazing, european winter thickness walls, bifold doors, oak staircase, which the standard builds excluded. Construction takes about 1/3rd of the normal time.

It has thermal properties of:

External Wall Insulation Rating (R value) = 6.75 R
Ceiling And Roof Insulation Rating (R value) = 7.51 R
Windows and Doors Insulation Rating (R value) = 1.10 R

Cheers,
Matt

Hi Matt, do we have a link somewhere on these?
I am waiting for a land sale to complete before looking at building a couple of somethings on another block.
 
Low Energy Building Product. Build a house in days.

Matt asked me to join to answer any question on the low energy building product he came upon through us. Feel free to ask for more info.
Below is some info that may be of interest. Before I send you any detailed info you will need to contact me via email or phone.

They are currently built in the UK, Italy, Spain, Germany, Norway & Turkey & almost everywhere in Europe in USA and Africa.

It’s a good product and can be built in from two days.

We don’t have actual movie, but assembling prefab houses is the exactly the same as this German company showing on YouTube video blow: weberhaus is not our company, we are cheaper.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW5ysz7JoCw&feature=related

Standard system inclusions:

1. External wall
The main load bearing structure, reinforced with timber studs & timber frame elements 120/140 mm x 70 mm at typical 625 mm spacing, lined with OSB panels 10 mm on each side, mineral wool 120/140 mm as thermal insulation and gypsum plasterboard panel 12.5 mm for internal finish and external levelling compound foil with Styrofoam sheets, ready for render
• Total thickness approx. 205/230 mm (depending of facade finish)
• U=0,23 W/m2K
• Max. span 12 m, 2700 mm height
2. Internal wall
Internal partition bearing and self-supportive panels, reinforced with timber studs & timber frame elements 65/75 x 45 mm lined with OSB panels 10 mm on each side, mineral wool 65/75 mm as thermal insulation and gypsum plasterboard panels 12.5 mm on each side
• Total thickness 110/120 mm
• U= 0,14 W/m2K
• Max. span 12 m, 2700 mm height
3. Upper floor structure and ceiling
The floor panels are manufactured in widths between 1.2 m and 2.4 m with floor joists at 625 mm spacing, gypsum plasterboard panel 12.5 mm, formwork for soffits, PE foil, mineral wool if needed, per architectural/structural design
4. Interior painted wooden staircase, painted by "EKO" coat paint per Customer's choice, if needed, per architectural/structural design
5. Roof construction - timber trusses and rafters, battens, PE foil for vapour barrier, OSB panel 10 mm, mineral wool if needed, per architectural/structural design (excluding roof tiling, down pipes, gutters and flashings)
6. Electrical conduits with junction boxes installed
7. For plumbing, additional thin framing with access panel where plumber contractor would be able to install fittings
*Please note the panel thickness varies depending of structural design and wind zone as per Australian Standard requirement.

Exclusions:
1. Crane for container unloading and installation of prefabricated/assembly materials
2. Water and electricity on site
3. Site preparation with finished concrete slab, ready for the assembly of the facility
4. Ancillary manpower for the assembly and construction work for the completion of the building
5. Down pipes, flashing and gutters
6. Floor finish and tiling for wet areas, painting of walls, joinery & fit-outs for kitchen, laundry and bathrooms
7. Additional thin framing with access panel where your plumber contractor would be able to install fittings
8. Façade finish and auxiliary scaffold, if required

Type of soil is not issue, since the system should be assembled on top of concrete footings/slab.
Special benefit we find in extreme climate, hot climate as well as cold, because of good insulation, double glazed windows and breakage of thermal bridges. Company paying special attention to appropriate thermal/acoustic calculation for every project.

The ship container transport should take from 6 to 8 weeks.

With the prefabricated system you are able to build in about 1/3 of the time needed to construct a site- conventional way.

Cost is from $490/m2 + $200/m2 for transport. Saving in time on construction and skilled tradesman on site. We are actually delivering much more than Lock up Stage, eg. internal doors with all accessories, ceilings and internal plasterboard linings, staircases if required, electrical junction boxes & conduits ready to connect wires, etc.

The "Star Rating" is a measure of the energy efficiency of a building (5 star is considered energy efficient).
New South Wales uses the online tool BASIX and Queensland has BERS. Using thermal calculation, a building is compliant if it does not exceed an annual energy allowance, and the energy usage of the building is given a star rating of up to ten stars. A building passing with a star rating is not obliged to match all the acceptable construction provisions of the Deemed-to-Satisfy energy efficiency provisions, as the star rating shows that the building achieves the required overall thermal performance. A thermal calculation can be produced using Accurate, FirstRate5 or BERS Professional software, which are accredited for this purpose.
Heating and cooling homes adds cost to energy bills and impacts the environment. The amount of energy needed to stay warm in winter and cool in summer can easily be reduced by the good design and construction of our homes. Assessing a building's thermal performance at design stage can identify simple, economical ways to make it more comfortable and save energy.
House energy rating through the Nationwide House Energy Rating Scheme (NatHERS) uses computer simulations to assess the potential thermal comfort of Australian homes on a scale of zero to 10 stars. The more stars, the less likely the occupants need cooling or heating to stay comfortable.
What is rated?
A dwelling can be rated before or after it is built. The rating depends on:
• the layout of the home
• the construction of its roof, walls, windows and floor
• the orientation of windows and shading to the sun's path and local breezes
• how well these suit the local climate.
Energy consumption by hot water systems, lights or household appliances is not part of the rating because those fittings are usually replaced several times during the life of the building.
What the stars mean
• Zero stars means the building shell does practically nothing to reduce the discomfort of hot or cold weather.
• A 5 star rating indicates good, but not outstanding, thermal performance.
• Occupants of a 10 star home are unlikely to need any artificial cooling or heating.
Houses built in 1990 averaged about 1 star on the NatHERS scale. Before the introduction of national energy efficiency regulations for houses in 2003, less than one per cent of Australian houses achieved 5 stars.

When you register your name & email we will provide you with full details of below.

“Standard” is our Low Energy construction, “Euro” is Passive house and “Mega” is very close to Zero Energy house.
If customer wish to achieve Zero energy house it will required thicker wall with more insulation and specific architectural design.
The U value is the number of watts that will pass through 1 square metre of a material. The U-value (or U-factor), more correctly called the overall heat transfer coefficient, describes how well a building element conducts heat. It measures the rate of heat transfer through a building element over a given area, under standardized conditions. The usual standard is at a temperature gradient of 24 °C, at 50% humidity with no wind (a smaller U-value is better).
U is the inverse of R with SI units of W/(m²K) and US units of BTU/(h °F ft²):
The R-value is a measure of thermal resistance used in the building and construction industry. Under uniform conditions it is the ratio of the temperature difference
across an insulator and the heat flux (heat flow per unit area, QA) through it or :
The R-value being discussed is the unit thermal resistance. This is used for a unit value of any particular material. It is expressed as the thickness of the material divided by the thermal conductivity. For the thermal resistance of an entire section of material, instead of the unit resistance, divide the unit thermal resistance by the area of the material. For example, if you have the unit thermal resistance of a wall, divide by the cross-sectional area of the depth of the wall to compute the thermal resistance. The unit thermal conductance of a material is denoted as C and is the reciprocal of the unit thermal resistance. This can also be called the unit surface conductance and denoted by h. The bigger the number, the better the building insulation's effectiveness. R-value is the reciprocal of U-value.
R-value should not be confused with the intrinsic property of thermal resistivity and its inverse, thermal conductivity. The SI unit of thermal resistivity is K•m/W. Thermal conductivity assumes that the heat transfer of the material is linearly related to its thickness. In calculating the R-value of a multi-layered installation, the R-values of the individual layers are added:

R-value(outside air film) + R-value(brick) + R-value(sheathing) + R-value(insulation) + R-value(plasterboard) + R-value(inside air film) = R-value(total)
For Auset Pacific system R-value is:

External Wall Insulation Rating (R value) = 6.75 R
Ceiling And Roof Insulation Rating (R value) = 7.51 R
Windows and Doors Insulation Rating (R value) = 1.10 R

To conclude, houses built with our system, with proper architectural layout and design are Low Energy Houses with Energy Rating 6+.

If this is of interest please get in touch via phone as per below or email [email protected]

Regards

John O’Beirne
www.ecps.net.au
0405-185-019
 
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I stumbled across photovoltaic-thermal (PV-T) solar installations last night, and the basic principle is rather elegant.

As PV panels heat up, their efficiency falls, and this can be quite dramatic at around 0.5% per degree Celsius rise in temperature.

In a PV-T panel, pipes are run behind the cells, and cold water run through the system. This cools the panel, improving the overall efficiency above what a standard system would achieve, and also creates a supply of hot water.

Here in the UK, Newform Energy sell PV-T panels and a hybrid solar solution that combines it with a heat pump. There's a video of it in action.

The passive house in Kent that featured in Grand Designs (UK) is fitted with these, and there's a case study on the website too.

I've no idea of the costs, or even availability Down Under, but I really like the idea.
 
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