Leaky shower bases - how to avoid this problem for good

[DavidMc]

Hi everyone,

Over the years I've had problems with leaky shower bases. The story is the same, the waterproof membrane has failed and it's around $4 grand to rip out and re-tile and insurance will not cover it (or go the $400 'Megasealed' band-aid). It also causes tenant, PM and landlord hassle.

This happens on 5-7 year old properties as well as 50 year old properties. What is going wrong here? Is it due to bad workmanship or just a design flaw in tiled bases?

How do we as investors avoid this problem?

Is it possible / worth converting to a single piece shower base?

David.

 

[Salvatore1]

Hi DavidMc. I manage a number if properties min the Hills District of Sydney and we average 1 property per mth to rip up and reseal. Our area is a clay based area and each time it rains the clay swells up and when dry shrinks, this causes building cracks and membranes to crack. Also be careful with mega seal as they only mask the problem not fix the problem plus their warranty is for their product only not the job!!

 

[Ed Barton]

Hi everyone,

Over the years I've had problems with leaky shower bases. The story is the same, the waterproof membrane has failed and it's around $4 grand to rip out and re-tile and insurance will not cover it (or go the $400 'Megasealed' band-aid). It also causes tenant, PM and landlord hassle.

This happens on 5-7 year old properties as well as 50 year old properties. What is going wrong here? Is it due to bad workmanship or just a design flaw in tiled bases?

How do we as investors avoid this problem?

Is it possible / worth converting to a single piece shower base?

David.

$4k seems very expensive. I've had them done for a ~$500.

You could always go the one piece shower. Where it's moulded plastic (or whatever, fibreglass?) - http://fibrecomposites.com.au/showers.asp

Not really classy for a higher end rental, but fine for a mid/low rental. No grout issues either.

 

[Nemo30]

I just had a bathroom and ensuite done.

Was quoted $2.5k each room just to re-tile showers - this was through one of the big re-seal companies.

Got quotes from smaller tilers and he quoted me about $1.5k each.

Has cost me a bit more than that as Ive had to fix walls and carpets too.

 

[beachside]

After doing my own bathroom reno in my PPOR I have come to some conclusions.

Practicality does not align with looks, ie centerfold magazine bathrooms.

My PPOR is a unit with double brick and slab construction. I sealed wall/floor and wall/wall junctions with a Sika sealant and paint on waterproof membrane over this, after speaking with a tiler doing another bathroom in the block. I think this was adequate for this application as limited movement potential. I would not be confident with this method in a BV house (particularly on piers) where movement could be a hell of a lot more. I would want to put down the stick/glue on type tape along all wall/floor intersections which allow more movement and a heavier membrane that the common green stuff I put down - I would go for overkill in protection as not much more effort!

In my highset W/B IP I have the old metal base which would not leak even after an earthquake.

In my PPOR I put in a semi frameless shower. Looks good, frameless would look even better but water comes out through the gaps between screens and door. I have to put cloths/sponges outside under the gaps to collect splash during shower. The old 3 piece wired glass door never leaked. I had a pivot glass door with frame (very common) fitted to IP instead of curtain, never leaks. Practicality v looks, bugger

 

[Scott No Mates]

Practicality is one thing as you note beachside. A properly installed membrane with backing rods/bond breakers where required (ie corners & wall/floor junctions) will alleviate most issues. Membranes are only microns thick so although they can and do stretch with building expansion/contraction movement larger than this will cause the membrane to fail.

As for water getting under the door of your frameless showerscreen, I have often found it is poor placement of the showerhead which sprays towards the door causing water to get onto the area outside the shower. A water bar and gasket under the door will stop most of this problem but will make the door much harder to open/close.