old house need work and I'm overwhelmed

[888]

okay, good news is we finally bought our first home, it's a 1939-40's single story brick house that from the look at the building inspection reports need a lot of love and work to restore it.

the bad news is we joined the "working to pay the mortgage" club and since I'm newbie, I'm kind of overwhelmed with the stuff need to be done on the house especially the work for external wall of house, roof, ceiling, and guttering because we have not done it before (we have always have lived in units).

I'm wondering whether you guys have some advice to a newbie. This is what the building report says about the external wall, roof, gutter and ceiling:

EXTERNAL WALLS
* paint deterioration
* brickwork damaged, need repair/replace
* mortar joins need repointing
* lead damp proof coursing may need replacing
* rusted lintel need treatment
* crack wall next to lintel need repair
* windows need repainting
* putty in windows need attention
* wet rot decay detected in window frames
* damaged window timbers need maintenance/repair


ROOFS EXTERNAL
* cracked tiles & tile fretting to the terracotta tiles
* mortar beds to the hip and ridge capping is
cracked and require repair/rebed and repoint
* visible deflection detected to the roofline
* gutter joints are leaking and need repair
* smoke test is recommended to check whether
downpipes connected to stormwater system
* gutter design and position may allow rain to
flow back to eave or building
* water damage/staining appear in eaves lining
may come from damaged sarking, gutter back
flow or leak roof
* paint work in eaves need maintenance
* rot rot decay present to timber fascias/barge
boards
* paint work in timber fascias/bargeboards
need maintenance
* valley metals are rusting and need treatment
or replacement

ROOF INTERNAL
* roof frame: collar tie span between rafters is
excessive and recommended timbers be bolted to
the rafters
* defibration noted to the roof timbers (roof
battens)and may need replacement
* no insulation to the ceiling, may consider to get
roof insulation
* no sarking in roof area
* heavy build up of dust in roof frames, vacuuming
recommended

INTERNAL BUILDING
* evidence of water penetration through ceiling
* peeling paint in ceiling
* defective or poor surface noted to ceiling
and walls need repair prior to painting
* some wall areas with drummy render or
plaster require re-rendering
* rising damp is evident to the base of masonry
walls, damp proof course material may not be
installed, have been bridged or need replacing
* lateral dampness detected in wall backing onto
the bathroom, may caused by plumbing leak
* windows sash/s sticking or fixed to closed
position and require easing/repair
* paintwork required for windows & doors
* floors are uneven and recommended re-leveling
* excessive movement noted to timber floors
and additional support recommended
* carpet in poor condition and needs replacing
* some areas do not have ant capping, installation
of ant capping recommended
* removal of loose timbers from underfloor are
recommended to remove threat of pest attack
* underfloor soil is damp


Do you guys know which work is urgent and which work can be delayed? I'm thinking that the roof probably is main priority since if it leaks, than all the work indoor will be ruined. Just wondering what should I do after the roof, kitchen, floor, bathroom or inside walls?

Do you guys know how much this works will cost normally and whether anyone knows good reliable trades people that I can contact to do these works.

Also, I was told that houses from this era may come with asbestos, is there any parts other than the ceiling that we need to watch out for asbestos? Thanks heaps in advance!!

 

[Pa1nter]

I was taught many years ago this simple rules ,
!:First priority is to make sure the buildings foundation is level and secure.
2:Second priority is to make sure the roof is watertight and secure.
3:Then you are free to do anything you please,knowing it wont move or leak.

Seriously,most items on your list seem to be just a basic lack of maintenance over the years.
Did I tell you I hate tiled roofs and will not buy a house with one?

I would get the roof looked at and fix any water problems,it is possible that the gutters are overflowing back into the eves causing most of these problems,so downpipes and storm water are a priority.I would not be surprised if you didn't have white ants,all the conditions for infestation are there.Make sure you make it white ant proof.
I have gone through your list and highlighted who I believe would be the person to fix these problems.
If it was my house,I would fix 95% of this stuff myself as it would just be another day at the office for me.

ROOFS EXTERNAL
* cracked tiles & tile fretting to the terracotta tiles Roof restorer or handyman
* mortar beds to the hip and ridge capping is
cracked and require repair/rebed and repoint Roof restorer or handyman
* visible deflection detected to the roofline Possible rotten timbers underneath, climb in ceiling and take a look
* gutter joints are leaking and need repair handyman
* smoke test is recommended to check whether
downpipes connected to stormwater system Plumber or handyman
* gutter design and position may allow rain to
flow back to eave or building Make sure gutters and downpipes are clean,perhaps put rain heads on the downpipes as a fuse.
* water damage/staining appear in eaves lining Make sure gutters and downpipes are clean and free
may come from damaged sarking, gutter back
flow or leak roof
* paint work in eaves need maintenance Good Painter
* rot rot decay present to timber fascias/barge
boards Good Painter or handyman
* paint work in timber fascias/bargeboards
need maintenance Good Painter
* valley metals are rusting and need treatment
or replacement Good Painter This could be a major cause of water leak also,so check well before treating the rust.

ROOF INTERNAL
* roof frame: collar tie span between rafters is
excessive and recommended timbers be bolted to
the rafters Carpenter or handyman
* defibration noted to the roof timbers (roof
battens)and may need replacement Carpenter or handyman
* no insulation to the ceiling, may consider to get
roof insulation Tiles are adequate insulation, save your money
* no sarking in roof area Bad, however to late now, you will have to live with it, just keep that roof in good condition
* heavy build up of dust in roof frames, vacuuming
recommended handyman

INTERNAL BUILDING
* evidence of water penetration through ceiling Roof restorer or handyman
* peeling paint in ceiling Good Painter
* defective or poor surface noted to ceiling
and walls need repair prior to painting Good Painter
* some wall areas with drummy render or
plaster require re-rendering Good Painter or handyman
* rising damp is evident to the base of masonry
walls, damp proof course material may not be
installed, have been bridged or need replacing I’d like to see a photo of this?
* lateral dampness detected in wall backing onto
the bathroom ,may be caused by plumbing leak Could be coming from roof also?
* windows sash/s sticking or fixed to closed
position and require easing/repair Good Painter or handyman
* paintwork required for windows & doors Good Painter
* floors are uneven and recommended re-levelling Carpenter or handyman
* excessive movement noted to timber floors
and additional support recommended Carpenter or handyman
* carpet in poor condition and needs replacing
* some areas do not have ant capping, installation
of ant capping recommended Carpenter or handyman
* removal of loose timbers from underfloor are
recommended to remove threat of pest attack Carpenter or handyman
* underfloor soil is damp Possible water leak from bathroom area, is it below a wet area ?

 

[willair]

Also, I was told that houses from this era may come with asbestos, is there any parts other than the ceiling that we need to watch out for asbestos? Thanks heaps in advance!!

I would look at the walls ,if the ceilings are set that way then you may well find the walls are the same,Painter has covered everthing the only rule i work on is this start from the top down,fix the roof first once that is water tight then everything can be done..good luck..willair..

 

[kidd1]

There are a lot of items there... but as Pa1nter said, they're all relatively small. Most of which can be taken care of by a handyman. Don't be afriad by the things requiring a tradesman (painter, roof plumber, carpenter) as these items are pretty small and pending a half decent tradesman it shouldn't set you back too much.

Good to see theres some good help in a finishing trade such as Pa1nter. If I ever need painting done in DLQ i'll know where to go...

Give me a hammer any day.

 

[lizzie]

ring your local real estate agent and get the name of their handman.

i know even with this latest reno hubby was stressing about getting a few things done - so i just rang my handyman, gave him a list and "presto", for a couple of hundred dollars the to-do list was gone.

 

[depreciator]

Pretty standard stuff for a house of that vintage that hasn't been well maintained.

In answer to your asbestos query, bathrooms and laundries of that era sometimes had asbestos sheeting on the walls. And the panels under the eaves around the house will be asbestos. If it's all in reasonable condition, there is nothing to worry about.

 

[NBS]

EXTERNAL WALLS
* paint deterioration
* brickwork damaged, need repair/replace
* mortar joins need repointing
* lead damp proof coursing may need replacing
* rusted lintel need treatment
* crack wall next to lintel need repair
* windows need repainting
* putty in windows need attention
* wet rot decay detected in window frames
* damaged window timbers need maintenance/repair

I would be looking at the Brickwork and find out why it is cracked it could be a footing issue which may fix the crack in the brickwork and the binding window and the deflection issue with the roof.

The wet rot is most likley coming from two spots rain external or leaking from the roof down the wall to the window frame you may also find here the timbers behind may also have some rot which will also need fixing. This will need investigating.

The rest are basic issues with this type of building and while all need attention they are not major issues. The roof valley without seeing and not knowing the extent of the rust I would replace if you have a roof restorer doing other works the cost would not be that great and thus not an issue later.

The collor ties should all be bolted again not a big issue and a carpenter can sort this out and may also sort the other matters out with the roof and the uneven floors.

Would comment more but have to head to work.

Brian

 

[Pa1nter]

EXTERNAL WALLS
I would be looking at the Brickwork and find out why it is cracked it could be a footing issue which may fix the crack in the brickwork and the binding window and the deflection issue with the roof.

Brian

As far as I can tell it is on stumps? Please advise if this is not correct?
Do you mean the footing for the bottom area?
If this is so,should it be a real issue if it has dropped as it shouldn't be structural at all,wouldn't a render hide all issues?
Please correct me if I am wrong as I haven't seen a photo of the building in question so I seem to be flying in the dark ??

 

[Railglider]

okay, good news is we finally bought our first home, it's a 1939-40's single story brick house that from the look at the building inspection reports need a lot of love and work to restore it.


Do you guys know which work is urgent and which work can be delayed? I'm thinking that the roof probably is main priority since if it leaks, than all the work indoor will be ruined. Just wondering what should I do after the roof, kitchen, floor, bathroom or inside walls?

Hmmm, Nothing about the 60 year old Electrical wiring???

That to me would be number one worry.....
As your house would most likely (unless it's been rewired) still have a very old Mains distribution box, with old Fuse wire type circuit protection. The cable behind and throughout the home will have brittle insulation over the wiring. most likely would not have Earth leakage protection, and most likely not up to AS/NZ 3000 Standards on a whole.
Costs on average to rewire a home, depending on many factors - start at 15k
The house is worth nothing if it burns down due to an Electrical fault.

 

[888]

Thanks everyone for the replies especially Pa1nter & NBS, I will try to get some photos uploaded soon.

@Railglider: The cost of rewiring $15k sounds very steep, I was told it's around $3k-5k normally?

 

[888]

this is the external walls, this part is the worst affected area from what I can see

 

[888]

more photos

 

[888]

 

[888]

I get a feeling some of these photos are too small, I'll try to get better quality size soon.

 

[AlmostBob]

Thanks everyone for the replies especially Pa1nter & NBS, I will try to get some photos uploaded soon.

@Railglider: The cost of rewiring $15k sounds very steep, I was told it's around $3k-5k normally?

wiring is cheap(er) sparkies work at frame stage and put anything anywhere.
rewiring without doing any damage is more expensive,
how much I dunno,
but pent 41000 on rewiring 6200SqFt in 2007, figured it was worth it, the sparky's endoscope showed the old wiring in the walls with the insulation burned off only needed a wiggle to make the wires short and fry, wires were patched and joined between different circuits
its a two phase system(here) some circuits were wired out of one phase, and back to the other phase so were 2x voltage all the time and could not be switched off, 'dumb as a stump' householders making their own changes over time, plumbing pipes used as earth, some were Hot, lots of stuffups

 

[888]

Quick update on the renovation, we're getting quotes on roof the last couple of days and the advices different roofers gave are like night and day. One said tear it down and re-roof without even getting up on the roof, one went up the roof and said it can be repaired, the other went up and said re-roof and yet another said can be repaired to last 10 years or so. The prices range quoted were even worse. It cost as low as $3000 to repair up to $28000 to re-roof. I do believe the $28000 quote is close to daylight robbery as I was told normal re-roof is about $10k-12k for single story terracotta house, correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[NBS]

For your roof tiles, if you can get one it should have a stamp on the back, Then contact a 2nd hand roof tile shop and find out how much for what ever amount you need delivered.

I get mine in Bris and it cost about $1000 for 500 including ridge tiles etc. If you elect to retile the whole place get sarking put in.

Will look at the photos in more detail but the first one looks like the mortar has washed out. Looks like the damp course is showing. Do you have rising damp in the place?

The photo with the light in it what is that area those rafters seem way to small for that span.

Brian

 

[Railglider]

@Railglider: The cost of rewiring $15k sounds very steep, I was told it's around $3k-5k normally?

What price is peace of mind?
3k -5k will give you about 3 months of peaceful sleep. Like I say to many clients, get a few quotes, check the Tradesmans Licensed and not some yobbo fresh of the boat that does not understand AS3000 wiring rules. Your insurance will not cover any un-licensed work.

Rewires are a hell of a job, it's not done in two to three days, it's more like two weeks of breathing in all sorts of rubbish, confined in tight roof spaces, stripping out all the old, and then feeding in the new cables down walls you can't see through. As a matter of interest to you, I'd estimate a little under a 1/4 of that 15k would be in cable and circuit protection, GPO's and Switches. Light fittings are extra.

 

[NBS]

Just get your quotes for respective trades and work.

I would detail WHAT you want each trade to price IE if for electrical, number of power points, ceiling fans, air con, lights and where they are to go even mark the spots etc etc.

Kitchen have a plan, roofer what you want a report on the roof and what is required. Carpenter to visit the roof void and indicate what is required and give a report.

If you are removing wall/ceiling sheetings say that to the trades as it will make a difference.

Get an estimate from all the trades and WHAT is required, naturally this will vary but you will get a fair grounding as most would be saying the same thing.

Find out what you can do to save on cost IE rip the ceiling / wall sheeting off but ask if a wall has to be removed DO not just rip a wall out.

Brian