Patio Cover - Polycarbonate

Hi, need help with polycarbonate patio cover for our existing timber deck.

1) There are Corrugated, Greca and 5 Rib. Which one is the best and why OR is this just a matter of preference.

2) A friend recommended M&A Shield but not sure about their workmanship.
Anyone with experience with this company or any good recommendations?

Reason for polycarbonate and not colourbond: Would like some light through to deck.

Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you all!
 
we put tinted laserlite on our existing deck and found it too hot to be out there in summer. admittedly we are in a very protected spot. We have heard of a new one which has pockets in it and is much more heat resistant so will be sussing this out for the new deck
 
You can use the 5 rib profile on a lower pitch which is it's main selling point over greca or corrugated. But if your not doing a low pitched roof it's just personal preference.. I think corrugated looks the best personally..
 
You can use the 5 rib profile on a lower pitch which is it's main selling point over greca or corrugated. But if your not doing a low pitched roof it's just personal preference.. I think corrugated looks the best personally..

But wouldn't it be better to have a higher fall to avoid leakages?
 
Also be aware of the sun rating when buying this type of sheeting.
The cheaper brands have little uv protection and seem a lot thinner.
 
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But wouldn't it be better to have a higher fall to avoid leakages?

The roofing material specifications generally show the minimum pitch required. Polycarb sheet is laid at a slightlu steeper incline. Unlike galvanized roof sheeting you can't turn down the end of the sheet to prevent blow back so it cannot be installed almost flat (2?).
 
Also be aware of the sun rating when buying this type of sheeting.
The cheaper brands have little uv protection and seem a lot thinner.

Thanks NWW. I was looking into Ampelite Solasafe Polycarbonate sheet. I am assuming this is a better brand.
 
The roofing material specifications generally show the minimum pitch required. Polycarb sheet is laid at a slightlu steeper incline. Unlike galvanized roof sheeting you can't turn down the end of the sheet to prevent blow back so it cannot be installed almost flat (2?).


Thanks Scott. That was one of the reason why we are going with polycarbonate although there might be other options that might be more suitable hence this posting.

Are you able to recommend good installers for this?
 
Thanks NWW. I was looking into Ampelite Solasafe Polycarbonate sheet. I am assuming this is a better brand.

Im not sure about that brand , last time (5years) I used the more expensive
Lazerlite , they did have a cheaper version, more expensive ones had a higher UV rating.

You can tell by the feel of the quality , some is very thin.
 
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Thanks Scott. That was one of the reason why we are going with polycarbonate although there might be other options that might be more suitable hence this posting.

Are you able to recommend good installers for this?

My now retired chippy installed it along with the pergola and gutters/downpipe.
 
I encountered same issues last year. More than two options !!! have a look at stratco for all their panel options. I went with Supadek which looks like flat timber flooring on underside and looks like colourbond fencing from top. Looks better than corrugated IMO. In the gable area you can switch steel panels for fibreglass for light. I avoided full clear as it gets VERY hot and is unpleasant underneath. Mate of mine has 100% poly and its like a sauna and makes aweful noises as it expands and contracts. Not a cheapie either.

Gable allows ventilation too. We have FLAT skillions each side of gable in centre. These are almost flat (1o fall ?) Corrugated has to be much more. This also allows better box gutters. We went with four clear panels in gable and is more than enough. Same profile as Superdek but not cheap. (Made to order)

Benefits
- Lower temperature. Clear panels can get VERY hot underneath.
- More guttering +bigger box gutters accommodate downpours better
- Clear panels are not bushfire rated on large area.
- Clear panels stain from leaves.
- Clear panels become brittle - I'm not aware of blending polycarb and steel however.

I would talk to the pro's. They can ship DIY or refer installers etc. Our 5 x 8m cost $4K installed.
 
I encountered same issues last year. More than two options !!! have a look at stratco for all their panel options. I went with Supadek which looks like flat timber flooring on underside and looks like colourbond fencing from top. Looks better than corrugated IMO. In the gable area you can switch steel panels for fibreglass for light. I avoided full clear as it gets VERY hot and is unpleasant underneath. Mate of mine has 100% poly and its like a sauna and makes aweful noises as it expands and contracts. Not a cheapie either.

Gable allows ventilation too. We have FLAT skillions each side of gable in centre. These are almost flat (1o fall ?) Corrugated has to be much more. This also allows better box gutters. We went with four clear panels in gable and is more than enough. Same profile as Superdek but not cheap. (Made to order)

Benefits
- Lower temperature. Clear panels can get VERY hot underneath.
- More guttering +bigger box gutters accommodate downpours better
- Clear panels are not bushfire rated on large area.
- Clear panels stain from leaves.
- Clear panels become brittle - I'm not aware of blending polycarb and steel however.

I would talk to the pro's. They can ship DIY or refer installers etc. Our 5 x 8m cost $4K installed.


Thanks Paul. May I ask who your installer is? Mine is about 3 x 6m so I am assuming it will be cheaper than $4k. Might consider this if pricing is reasonable.

Does it include installing new downpipe that runs into the ground or just a downpipe on the surface? Reason being, I was told that I would need to get my own plumber if I want it to be connected into the ground/storm drain.
 
My now retired chippy installed it along with the pergola and gutters/downpipe.

I was told that they will only install the downpipe up to the ground and I would need to get my own plumber if I want it to be connected into the ground, right up to the drain storm.

It is a bit strange as I would have thought they will have the expertise to fully install the downpipe right up to the drain storm and not leave it to a plumber.

Was yours fully connected to the drain storm?
 
we put tinted laserlite on our existing deck and found it too hot to be out there in summer. admittedly we are in a very protected spot. We have heard of a new one which has pockets in it and is much more heat resistant so will be sussing this out for the new deck

Hi fernfurn, I think the new one with pockets is similar to Ampelite Lexan Thermoclear. Apparently they are very very expensive.
Are you planning to install a new deck soon?
 
AFAIK storm water drainage doesn't require a licensed plumber or drainer as it doesn't connect to the water supply system. So you can probably diy but check with whoever owns the stormwater system to confirm their requirements.

My installation ran over ground to a grated drain.
 
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