Hi, I've paved a fair bit on various ppor's - I only learn't lately that the trick is to pay someone to do it - it's easier on the back!!
the method of paving is slightly different depending on if the surface is just for walking (ie a patio or path) vs driving on - ie a carport or driveway.
Naturally more preparation should go into a driveway surface, as well as thicker pavers (generally 40mm+ thick)
I start with the final desired level - then take away the thickness of the pavers, then approx the same thickness of the sand base, and then about half that again for a dolomite / aggregate sub-base.
Often that means I need to dig out some of the soil (and if you're on clay thats not such a bad thing.)
So
1. cut away (or fill) soil to appropriate depth
2. lay aggregate, rake level then roll or vibrate to compact (I water the ground to get additional compaction)
3. lay sand, and scree it level
4. lay pavers
5. haunch edges of paved area (best to make the haunch pretty deep - shallow ones crack and the pavers then move easily, especially on driveways)
6. sweep fine sand into cracks - and re-vibrate (however to avoid breaking the pavers- especially from a heavy vibration machine - wrap the vibration plate with several layers of carpet/ hession bagging). The re-vibration allows the fine sand to move deep into the spaces between pavers providing a firmer finish.
6a. - you can get a crack-filler sand which has a chemical added - that acts as a glue - the sand needs to be swept into the cracks - then swept off, then watered in (and make sure there is no sand sitting on the surface, coz the chemical can stain the pavers if they are not sealed.)
Or you could just add a few handfulls of cement dust to some fine sand to get the same effect.
7. seal the pavers - especially if your a red wine drinker, or you're gunna have a bbq on it – sausage n steak oils stain ...
hope this helps.