Ramping a concrete screed?

[depreciator]

This one is hard to explain.
I have a recessed door sill that's about 20mm above the slab outside. (Inside is a slab level with the sill.) So I want to ramp the outside surface up to the sill. The ramp will be gradual i.e. I'll take it out about 400mm to a feathered edge.
It will be painted with paving paint afterwards.
So what product will do this? Ordinary cement will just crack.
And I think I might need someone to do it - being in a prominent position it will look lousy if I stuff it up.
Scott

 

[AlmostBob]

Answers you dont want to hear..expensive
the only time I ever saw concrete levelling done that the concrete patch didnt crack, in a new shell service station 2 weeks after it was built
a tradesman came, cut 100mm deep into the lower slab with a diamond saw 1200mm out from the high part, dug out all the concrete inside the cuts, formed and built the ramp so its minimum thickness was 100mm, top of the ramp 200mm
that was to take a car, the material had to be thick, it was expensive, cost more to level the floor than the dodgy brothers charged to make the mistake the first time.
for foot traffic it may not need not more than 2 saw cuts at the edge to make a channel so the poured ramp is not thin enough to crack

 

[depreciator]

Thanks Bob. It's just foot traffic - entry to my kitchen.
Ages ago (another PPOR) I used a self levelling product called Ardit for some low spots in a concrete floor. It was great - mixed ip and poured it on. But given I need this to ramp up 20mm, I need something that won't slump.
I've used a grout (forget the name) as packing under steel base plates before. That may work. It's a cement like prouduct, but sets harder and doesn't crack.
Scott

 

[gerd.]

Hi depreciator

Have a look at Ardex B12

http://www.ardexaustralia.com/product_category_display.asp?catid=1

If sand filler is used two applications may make it easier

Gerd

 

[depreciator]

That sounds like it would do the trick, Gerd.

Two applications would be easier. So I would do one with the filler at the deepest point, and then a skim coat over the whole area?

Steel trowel or timber?

DIY or tradie?

Scott

 

[gerd.]

My preference would be a timber float, considering you are going to paint the area.
Slip factor will be reduced that way.
After the first coat you'll have the hang of how B12 works the second coat will give you that pro finish.

Gerd

 

[depreciator]

Thanks Gerd.