OK, believe it or not we want to restore the cedar windows in our early '70s house to look like timber. They currently have layers of paint on them. Once i get past the nightmare of stripping the paint (not sure how, yet) - what do i use to dress the raw timber? I like a natural look like oil, but I believe this needs to be reapplied every 6 mths or so. With the amount of windows we have, this would be a constant project! What about varnish? Does it wear OK? I don't want a gloss finish but assume you can get varnish in matt or satin...?
Timber window finishes - Help!
- Thread starter Ms Jade
- Start date
Hi Ms Jade,
I did this exact thing with my early 70s PPOR. The WRC windows look a treat. My recommendation is to take off the paint with a heat gun & scraper (careful not to burn the timber), then sand. I highly recommend Intergrain products. Reviva, Dimension 4 and Intergrain DWD. Reviva cleans the timber, Demension 4 is a pre tratment and DWD is the top coat and leaves a golden hue. My windows (whilst not in direct sun) have now gone 5 years and haven't had to redo. I'm very happy with the result.
Project 1080.
The project: 10 IPs in 80 mths.
I did this exact thing with my early 70s PPOR. The WRC windows look a treat. My recommendation is to take off the paint with a heat gun & scraper (careful not to burn the timber), then sand. I highly recommend Intergrain products. Reviva, Dimension 4 and Intergrain DWD. Reviva cleans the timber, Demension 4 is a pre tratment and DWD is the top coat and leaves a golden hue. My windows (whilst not in direct sun) have now gone 5 years and haven't had to redo. I'm very happy with the result.
Project 1080.
The project: 10 IPs in 80 mths.
Thanks, 1080. So it takes one coat of 3 products?
Can i ask if you tried paint stripper at all? My plan was maybe use a good chemical stripper & scraper & then sand. Just as happy to use a heat gun if it's easier. I guess it's probably less mess too.
Do you happen to have any pics of your windows? I don't even know what colour they will look like underneath. I'm almost certain that they would have used WRC but the bit of exposed wood i've seen inside the awning doesn't look at all red.
Can i ask if you tried paint stripper at all? My plan was maybe use a good chemical stripper & scraper & then sand. Just as happy to use a heat gun if it's easier. I guess it's probably less mess too.
Do you happen to have any pics of your windows? I don't even know what colour they will look like underneath. I'm almost certain that they would have used WRC but the bit of exposed wood i've seen inside the awning doesn't look at all red.
ceder is not realy a great timber for australia, our summers are too dry and winters too wet! the timber splits and expands all year around, due to the pourosity (spell) of the grains a light oil might work but in the correct climate, victoria perhaps and north qld , stripping the windows sure is a major task get some helpers, youngans, that can think , the task will be easier, good luck!!
Ack! I knew one day i would regret not having children. I see that they may have actually come in handy.
HI
Floods Spas & decks, guaranteed for 4 years on vertical surfaces and 2 on flat surfaces (eg decks). Can get it at bunnings. Best part is that when it does break down it doesn't flake you don't have to strip it all back. I have used on decks and main walkways to the front door of house, 3 years and still going strong. I used to be an avid intergrain user but the flaking means a complete resand. Also used sikkens (sam problem as intergrain) and oils-don't last long.
This guy writes on woodwork forums and does it for a living (http://www.restore-a-deck.com.au/) he was the one who convinced me to try it and wouldn't use anything else.
Floods Spas & decks, guaranteed for 4 years on vertical surfaces and 2 on flat surfaces (eg decks). Can get it at bunnings. Best part is that when it does break down it doesn't flake you don't have to strip it all back. I have used on decks and main walkways to the front door of house, 3 years and still going strong. I used to be an avid intergrain user but the flaking means a complete resand. Also used sikkens (sam problem as intergrain) and oils-don't last long.
This guy writes on woodwork forums and does it for a living (http://www.restore-a-deck.com.au/) he was the one who convinced me to try it and wouldn't use anything else.
Yes Ms Jade, one coat of each (I sound like Mr Squggle).
Harry, Turk & Craig have covered everything else you need to know. I did try the stripper at the beginning of job but quickly gave that away in favour of the Ryobi heat gun.
Haven't tried Floods Spa & Deck but am considering this for my deck which I should get around to doing in the warmer months.
As for pics, I do have before and afters but can't find them on the drive they're stored. The Boss has been paying around with it and has either moved
or deleted them. If I locate, i'll post.WRC won't actually look red but it is soft. One way to know is to push your finger nail or a normal nail in. It should depress the timber quite easily.
Regards,
Project 1080.
The project: 10 IPs in 80 mths.