What should I do in Japan?

[Risky Business]

G'day all,

I've taken the Jetstar bait, and me, the misses and little lad are off to Japan in December. It was a bit of a last minute, random why not.

We got return flights from Gold Coast to Osaka for $970 for the 3 of us. The price was too tempting. I think it cost me more in toll late fees last time I visited Brisbane. We're over there for 9 days or so.

For the better organised and more experienced, what do you recommend that we do in Japan for 9 days? We plan on doing alot of eating. We'd like to see some Japanese history, and anything unique to Japan. We'll probably only do the trip once. I'd also like to see Tokyo, and the rest of trip is unplanned. I am a tightass though and will be looking for good value fun.

Any ideas would be much appreciated. Terry, did you get up to anything good over there or did you spend all your time in the Karaoke bars?

Cheers
Risky

 

[pennyk]

If you are going to be travelling around, the first thing to organise is a JR pass, so you can travel on Shinkansen and other trains/ buses etc. It is possible to book seats for no extra cost, and its worth doing that, particularly with kids, cause the unreserved carraiges are usually full.
Since you arrive in Osaka, you must go to Kyoto, which is the old capital. There's plenty to see there for a few days. If you are based there, you can also spend a day at Osaka castle
I love Kyushu, but if you are short of time and dont want to travel too much, you could stay in Kyoto and Tokyo, and just do day trips out from each of them.
We like to stay in ryokans, the traditional Japanese Inns. For families, they are very cost effective, and help you to feel the Japanese way of life. Our favourite is Kirinoya Ryokan in Narita. Its close enough to Tokyo to get in there each day, but feels miles away. The owners are lovely, and cooked breakfasts/ dinners are superb, but traditional http://www.naritakanko.jp/kirinoya/
I was surprised when I first went to tokyo by what an attractive city it is (compared with osaka). there's plenty to do within the city, and you can also take day trips out to Mt Fuji, and the surrounding cities. From either Kyoto or Tokyo, you should be able to do a day trip to ski fields.
Its essential that you go to a public bathhouse during your stay.
Unlike most peoples feeling, we've found eating in Japan really cheap (compared to australia), so long as you eat Japanese style. there are plenty of places to get lunch for around $5.00 each, and set lunches and dinners can be $10. Icecreams and snacks are also cheaper. One of my favourite quick dining places is the Japanese curry in Shinagawa Station (tokyo)... mmmmm yum.
Well, thats probably enough to start with. I love Japan, and if you want more off the beaten track, I can help with that as well. But there is plenty to see and do.. just wandering around the streets.

 

[Indifference]

Agree with pennyk, get a JR pass, but be warned, it will cost you. It is the best way to get around but compared to your flight costs, you might gulp....

Don't miss the Harajuku area in Tokyo & there is a Temple near there as well. I enjoyed Kamakura (the former capital at one time) which is steeped in national history & fairly easy commute south of Tokyo.

Kyoto is a fair distance and depending on your rail pass (ie. which express Shikansen you can take) will be a few hours at fast speed from Tokyo. You could easily spend a week there, but a couple of days will be worth the effort!

Mt Fuji, if you like the outdoors. Iconic.

You absolutely can not miss going to an Izakaya. It is a Bar/Food establishment, pay per sitting (2 or 3 hrs normally), which is family friendly (took my family many times) and you pay for a set menu & all you can drink in your sitting..... My favorite way to dine in Japan!

Enjoy your trip. You will have an absolutely wonderful time and there is soooo much to see and do, it will literally astound you.... well it did for us!

I am envious..... can't wait to return there.

 

[Terryw]

I love Japan and go about 3-4 times per year, staying in Osaka.

Osaka is great because it is in the middle of 3 major cities. Kobe, Kyoto and Nara. Kobe is a nice place squeezed between the sea and mountains. Nara is the ancient capital with many old temples to look at such as Todaiji, Horyuji (which may be the oldest wooden building in the world). Nice dear park too, but they are aggressive. Kyoto is also great with many many nice temples. It will cost you a bit for entry though. some of them maybe 500Yen.

The JR rail pass will work out cheaper if you need to travel a bit. I recently went from Osaka to Tokyo (stayed in Shinagawa Penny, but didn't see that curry place). The fare was 13500 yen = $150 one way, unbooked. No need to book i think.

Most things are very cheap which may surprise many. Food is as Penny says - cheap!!! Sushi train type sushi from 100Yen per plate. Restaurants maybe 600Yen+. You can buy freshly cooked meals in supermarket for about 300yen. They also have microwaves so you can heat up.

Not many people speak English though (despite learning it for at least 6 years). Many signs are in English on the trains, but when buying a ticket many boards have no english, so it may be hard, but someone will help you.

Watch out for changing money. I have found it best to change in Sydney. eg. last time I found a place for 80yen to the dollar. Over in Osaka airport 65yen. There are not many places to change too. Best to do it here.

If you need to know anything, let me know. BTW, it will be very cold in Dec.
In Osaka, try staying in Shinsaibashi or Namba. I know some hotels around 6500Yen per night. Capsule 2900Yen.

 

[pennyk]

Agree with pennyk, get a JR pass, but be warned, it will cost you. It is the best way to get around but compared to your flight costs, you might gulp....

Kyoto is a fair distance and depending on your rail pass (ie. which express Shikansen you can take) will be a few hours at fast speed from Tokyo. You could easily spend a week there, but a couple of days will be worth the effort!
.

although expensive, its still much cheaper than flying between cities... Japan desperately needs a low cost airline! It cost me $800 or so to fly one way between Nagasaki and Haneda. but you're right.. the JR pass will probably be about the same each as the one way Jetstar fare.

Since he is flying into Osaka, it makes sense to spend some time in Kyoto and do day trips from there, and then head up to Tokyo and do day trips from there.

Another day trip from Kyoto that I really love is Kurashiki in Okayama. Its a very arty little town, with very different architecture to other parts of Japan. It was one of the few places that wasnt bombed in WW2, so its original. Its lovely, and Okayama castle is also impressive (although you will probably get tired of castles after a while! )

 

[willfong]

+1 to JR pass. You'll be surprised how fast it takes from one major city to the next with their bullet trains.

For historical sites, definitely spend at least a couple of days exploring Kyoto with its numerous temples and palaces, and very traditional old Japanese charms all over the town. Squeeze in a day trip to Nara if time permits. Nara had free amatuer English speaking tour guide (normally local Japanese students wanting to practice their English) when we were there, it's probably still available, just ask at the train station. Both are very close (less than 1 hour train) from Osaka.

For more recent history, perhaps visit Hiroshima the atomic dome and the museum with tales of what happened when they got nuked was an eye opener into the folly of war. There is also the floating torii in Miyajima which is just a short tram and ferry ride away from Hiroshima.

A night at a ryokan in an onsen area up the mountain? Hakone or something like that?

Tokyo, well with what little time you have left for Tokyo probably just wander around exploring Harajuku, Shibuya, etc.

How old is the little lad and which part of December are you going? Check lonely planet or similar there may be some local traditional festival during that time.

 

[Risky Business]

Thanks heaps all,

I'll start googling all the places that you're recommending. Our little fella will only be just under 10 months old and we'll be there on the 1st Dec. I feel sorry for the person with the cheap flights sitting next to me and my son. I hope I can keep him amused, or sedated.

The JR pass sounds a winner. I would normally drive everywhere in a hire car, but that challenge is not for Japan.

I went to the library yesterday and got a few books on Japanese values and etiquette so at least I'll limit how many people I offend with my Aussie Bogan ways.

Getting out of our comfort zone will be key for us. We'll have to get our travel plans sorted and accommodation throughout the cities. I'll check your link soon PennyK. I'll get come cash converted before I head over. What about withdrawing cash, using credit cards? What sort of hurdles might we face?

Any places/activities, that you personally thought wasted your travel time over there?

Keep your ideas coming. By tonight I should have an idea where some of these places are that you are mentioning.

Cheers
Risky.

 

[Terryw]

I went to Roppongi in Tokyo recently and regretted it. This is the so called red light district with a few strip bars, discos etc. Its a well known area.

As soon as I came out of the station I was harrassed by African men trying to get me into a bar. They just wouldn't leave me alone or take no for an answer. Then when one dropped off another would be on you in a flash. It was so bad I didn't walk more than 2 steps on my own there.

 

[the_captain]

TerryW,

I know a person that had a similar experience to you.....and stupidly followed those dodgey African blokes into one of those bars. In fact, they were two people travelling together. I work and regularly travel on business with him.

Upon arriving in the "bar", they thought it strange that there was no one else in there. After a few beers, one went to the toilet, came back and his friend was no where to be seen.

Ten minutes later another African bloke appears and says that there is a "problem". This guy leads him to a room, where his friend has been tied up and beaten, they threaten to continue to beat the friend unless ATM, credit cards and cash are handed over. They already have all the friends cards.

These two blokes were let go, once they had drained the maximum amount of cash out of their bank accounts, around $AUD 500, I was told.

So, be careful in Roppongi, it's a bit of a toilet.

Having said that I also LOVE japan, and it is a safe country. I have only ever been to Tokyo and I can say that the Asakusa area is worth spending 1/2 a day walking around and soaking up the atmosphere, lots of very traditional little Japanese restaurants and izakayas, a great market here as well, where you can gorge yourself on Japanese street food on the weekend, the Asahi brewery is here by the river. It's also near Kapabashi Dori Gai, which is a great street for buying catering and kitchen equipment at very reasonable prices.

I want to go back

 

[Terryw]

Captain,

It seems some of those guys are very desperate for money. With so many of them it must be hard for them to find customers. And Japan is the last place you would expect to see large groups of African men. The ones I spoke to were from Kenya. They say hello and talk like you are their long lost best friend.

Lots of police around there too. But I guess they are annoying but not doing anything illegal - most of the time anyway.

Funny enough I encountered large numbers of Africans in Bangkok too.

 

[IndexFund]

Let us all know if you start to glow green.

 

[Ian (WA)]

Warning on Roppongi......work colleague went there about 5 months ago.

In his late 20's went with a mate into a strip club.....drinks got spiked, both taken to ATMs to withdraw cash. The colleagues' mate lost $3000.00, both remembered vague details the next day, but had no way of reporting or proving anything as neither of them recall who took them to ATMs.

Regular bad reports about this place on internet travel sites.

Bad news - just don't even go there!!

Enjoy the raw fish.

Ian.

 

[goonandtell]

I had a great time in japan, oddly we never felt unsecure even wandering around ropungi.

Dont bother with a JR pass while you are in Tokyo, while there are JR lines most of the trains you catch will be private lines which use a different ticketing system we only used a handful of JR trains while in Toyko.

We spent about a week in Toyko, we had a few 'sites' we had to see but mostly went with the flow in toyko the transport is so amazing we saw most of our sites on the first day that we really wanted. Then went searching for odd things like hot coffee in a can (hint its only in winter not in summer ), went out clubbing all night then slept in an internet cafe booth, wandered around the parks, went shopping in freak town, went to a maid cafe and had a young girl in an outfit play jenga and serve overpriced icream to us, spend 3 hours decided between LED torches in department stores ....

Outside of toyko we hiked Mt Fuji overnight (take proper gear, we didn't). Went to Fuji Q highlights theme park went on the worlds tallest and the 3rd fastest roller coasters, travelled for ages to some tiny village to stay in a nice onsen.

Our second half was based out of Koyto and we did day trips to Nara and another place i can't remember, we are not huge temple and museum people so enjoyed a few temples and the arch way things but ultimately left it at that. Had a few great nights out karaoking with a group, you pay the room by the hour for you and your friends then can turn on and off drinks packages. Made friends with some promotor guys in suits who worked for a bar that was empty so basically we got to muck around, serve our own drinks, try and mix some music.

 

[Indifference]

Dont bother with a JR pass while you are in Tokyo, while there are JR lines most of the trains you catch will be private lines which use a different ticketing system we only used a handful of JR trains while in Toyko.

Yes, in Tokyo you will need a Pasmo or Suica card which are 500 Yen and you add credit to them in the ticketing machines. You get them at the station from the ticket vending machine or counter. Then each fare is deducted as you pass into & out of the stations. They can also be used in food/drink vending machines and at shops & restaurants in the subway areas, so they are handy little buggers.

IMO, Rail is definitely the travel mode of choice in Japan.

 

[pennyk]

Getting out of our comfort zone will be key for us. We'll have to get our travel plans sorted and accommodation throughout the cities. I'll check your link soon PennyK. I'll get come cash converted before I head over. What about withdrawing cash, using credit cards? What sort of hurdles might we face?

.

Given what an technologically advanced country Japan is, their banking system seems to be archaic. you definitely need cash. Alot of places, particularly outside of the big cities wont take foreign credit cards. and it can be a challenge to find ATM's. 7-11 is often a good place to find ATm's that take foreign cards. but you need to plan ahead, and get cash.
and keep coins handy for the vast array of vending machines that you'll want to try while you are there........its amazing what you will find!

 

[GreatPig]

Get the one-week rail pass, base yourself in just two or three places (less accommodation to book and less travelling with luggage) then day-trip to the sights. Note that rail passes cannot be used on the Nozomi shinkansen. Try to get the Hikari Rail Star, as the Kodama ones stop at lots more stations, but Hikari's are less frequent. Turn up a bit early and find the right door queue for your train, otherwise you may not get a seat (unless you reserve one, which you can do with a rail pass).

As has been mentioned, it will be bloody cold at that time of year, so take some very warm clothes. And as has also been mentioned, cash is king. Credit cards can be used in some places, but I always use cash for everything. Take all you need with you.

Nine days is not a lot of time if you want to spend a few days in each of Kyoto and Tokyo. For such a short trip, I'd personally just rush those two (a day or two in each) and fit in a few other things (unless you're pretty sure you'll go back some time). On my first trip to Japan I was there for two months, yet only spent two days in Kyoto (admittedly though that was near the end, and I'd already seen a lot of temples by that time).

Since you arrive in Osaka, I'd actually be tempted to miss Tokyo altogether this trip. The city is worth seeing, but Jetstar have fairly regular cheap fares. And the other good sights near there are Fuji and Nikko - both of which will be very cold. Shinkansen one way from Osaka to Tokyo (using a rail pass) takes something over three hours (see the Hyperdia website for working out train travel in Japan).

A good base further south is Okayama. It has a nice garden itself (the castle is a reconstruction), and is close for day trips to Hiroshima, Miyajima, and Himeji Castle (the one to see in that area). You can spend a day each for Hiroshima and Miyajima, especially, I would imagine, with a baby, and Himeji needs about half a day. Stay near the railway station (I've stayed there a couple of times at the Matsunoki Ryokan - the website is in Japanese, but the bottom-left link is for email - you can email them in simple English - and the third-to-bottom link shows where they are on a map).

The other place to base there would be either Osaka or Kyoto, whichever you can find the most suitable accommodation in. There's lots of accommodation in Kyoto, and I'd imagine that time of year wouldn't be so busy. I've generally stayed in Osaka though, but not anywhere cheap. Train travel between the cities is quick. From there you can also visit Nara. Another good spot is the Fushimi-Inari-Taisha shrine, a couple of local stops out of Kyoto - particularly good for tightasses as entry is free! If you like sushi, there's an all-you-can-eat restaurant in the Shinsaibashi arcade in Osaka's Dotombori area that's cheap (the Ryugu-tei). It opens around 11am from memory.

If you do visit Tokyo, then you'd want to stay there at least one night (6-7 hours return train travel makes it a long day trip from Osaka). The Kimi Ryokan is quite famous there for foreigners, and pretty cheap. A tad difficult to find though. You can see a fair bit of Tokyo using just your JR Pass, on the Yamanote Circle Line, especially since you probably won't have a lot of time there.

Some photo write-ups from our trips there (not my first 2-month one though):

2006
2008
2009

We love visiting Japan. Have fun, but be prepared for plenty of walking!

GP

 

[pennyk]

. Turn up a bit early and find the right door queue for your train, otherwise you may not get a seat (unless you reserve one, which you can do with a rail pass).

A good base further south is Okayama. It has a nice garden itself (the castle is a reconstruction), and is close for day trips to Hiroshima, Miyajima, and Himeji Castle (the one to see in that area).
The other place to base there would be either Osaka or Kyoto, whichever you can find the most suitable accommodation in. There's lots of accommodation in Kyoto, and I'd imagine that time of year wouldn't be so busy. I've generally stayed in Osaka though, but not anywhere cheap.

We love visiting Japan. Have fun, but be prepared for plenty of walking!

GP

Agree with arriving early for shinkansen.. and even if you do reserve seats, its good to be in the right spot on the platform. the trains wait for no-one.... we had trouble getting our luggage and prams on once, and the conductors were shouting at us, pushing the pram on etc... its best to be well prepared and organised when you're getting on and off the trains.

All these Japanese names sound the same, so just wanted to make the link between GP's Okayama recommendation and my Kurashiki recommendation.. Kurashiki is in Okayama...so you must be meant to go there!

and also agree with GP's comment about lots of walking. The first time I went to Kyoto, I got a hole in the bottom of my shoe on the first day..............so make sure you have comfy, sturdy shoes.

 

[Terryw]

What to buy

Make sure you go to a 100Yen shop to stock up. 100 Yen is about $1.20, but the stuff is excellent quality and nothing like the $2 crapt they sell here. You can get almost everything there. e.g iphone covers! I got 5.

Clothing in Japan is amazingly cheap and the Japanese are extremely fashionable. I feel like a dag when I go there. It can be cheaper than Thailand too. Business shirts for about $10, socks, t-shirts, suites etc. all cheap. Shoes even.

Food is very cheap. Make sure you eat a lot of Bananas!

Electronics is not so cheap though. I wanted to get a Samsung Tablet Galaxy 10.1. $1000 in Japan but only $560 in Thailand. This is prob cause they are imported, but in general laptops seemed expensive.

The customer service is the best in the world too. Very polite, sometimes a bit excessive with the packaging though.

 

[GreatPig]

I think Okayama is a great base for that area. It also gives access to Shikoku, although I wouldn't bother going there on a first 9-day trip. However, if seeing castles was a high priority, Matsuyama castle is good too and I think can be done as a long day trip from Okayama. Or stay there the night and visit the Dogo hot spring in the evening. The Seito Ohashi bridge is pretty impressive too, and only a short ride from Okayama. I took a boat tour around underneath it that first time I was there, and I assume you still can.

I'd say food can be cheap, but it can also be expensive. Always know the price of what it is you're ordering (which is pretty easy). Anything with beef tends to be pretty expensive.

My wife absolutely loves the 100 Yen shops. Sometimes I think that's the main reason she wants to go there! I think we've visited every one in the Osaka & Kyoto areas at least twice. Not everything is Y100 or less though.

GP

 

[The Y-man]

, but in general laptops seemed expensive.
.

Do NOT buy a laptop in Japan.

Even international brands like Toshiba create laptops specifically for the Japanese market, and while it might look cool to have one that no one else does, drivers can be an outright pain to get to. eg if you bring one back with Japanese windows and you want to reload an english version, you'll prbably find things like the DVD burner not working, the screen resolution all wrong, no wirells driver etc.

The Y-man