Cleaning freshly laid hardwood decking

Just had an outdoor deck built on an IP and before I oil it, wanted to give it a good scrub and clean as there are some dark, muddy patches on the hardwood decking itself (a result of the builders treading dirt/mud onto it during the construction).

Anyone have some good tips on what to apply to rid this deck of the unwanted dirt/grime before the oil goes on?
 
Hi
Scrub it with Oxylic acid (used to celan bricks). I would leave it for 6 or 12 months though if you possibly can. Hardwood decking is often very wet and full of tanins and this greatly affects the performance of the coating. If you leave it for 6 or 12 months then oxylic acid it then coat you will get double the life.
 
If the decking is under cover then you can apply a good product like Sikens which will last a long time. However, if it is exposed to the elements then you will be sanding back every 3 months to keep it looking good.

I was recommended by a wood expert to let it weather for a few months then apply linseed oil which will soak into the timber to provide protection for the timber.
 
Fatty, I'm going through the same thing at the moment, trying to find out what's the best thing to do with a wooden deck that we just built and want to protect without having to oil every 3 months. Check out the woodworking forum and there is a guy on the sunny coast who specialises in restoring decks posting as jimj on that forum (sorry, don't have the links at hand at the moment but just google). He suggest a Flood product called Spa&Deck which has a good cleaner in the program too.

Hope that helps

Cheers

kaf
 
I just re-did a huge back deck that is covered but the edges copped more weather than the centre. Because we were having house cleaners clean the outside of the house, we also got them to clean the deck with whatever they used on the house.

We went to Bunnings to see what was available. We wanted to use some type of oil, but chap reckoned we would have to re-do it every six months :eek:. He recommended Flood product which should last 3 to 5 years.

We bought what he suggested - Flood Spa-N-Deck 100% Acrylic Wood Finish. According to the container it will outlast oils 3 to 5 times. We chose "natural" but it came in other shades. (According to the container "ideal for use on all exterior wood, including - pressure treated pine, cedar, jarrah and other hardwoods".)

It says on the back -"most important - most deck coating failures are due to lack of proper surface preparation...... All wood, both new and old, must first be treated with Spa-N-Deck Prep Solution."

We had tenants moving in next day, so because we had just had the deck cleaned I skipped this..... hope it doesn't sabotage my efforts.

Anyway, really important to have the decking soaking wet before applying the initial coat, so I had a bucket and broom with me and made sure the area I was about to do was really wet. I also made sure that I cleaned the weatherboards where it spashed as soon as the deck was dry enough to walk on.

Our deck is about 10 x 3 metres and we bought a 10 litre bucket of this stuff, and after three coats (very quick to dry and re-coat) we have nearly half left. Deck looks great but it is important to do a long sweep along the length of the boards without letting bits dry or you can see the overlap.

Only did it six weeks or so ago, so cannot tell you how it is weathering.
 
righto thanks everyone for your tips - will probably leave it for a couple of months to weather naturally as suggested, then hop in with the elbow grease and oil.
 
Sweep off any dirt and garden refuse, and clean with a deck-cleaning product. Lightly sand the deck, in the direction of the grain. Sanding against the grain may leave sanding marks and scratches in the wood. Use a sanding block or pole sander to make a large job easier.

If you hit it with high pressure water you will mostly likely tear the grains out and could do more damage then it's worth.
This will result in you sanding it back again.

Timber Deck Maintenance
 
When nobody’s looking, hit it with a high-pressure water cleaner.

If I remember correctly, the flood spa 'n' deck instructions for pre-treatment of new timber actually suggested doing this. I too have just used this product, so far so good but too early to tell how it weathers over time.

Louise
 
Been using 50% boiled linseed oil - 50% turps for years. New timber needs two coats. The wood loves it. The fasteners love it. Re-coat as often as needed . More often if no roof. Easy. Fast . Cheap. Can't go wrong. Looks great.

LL

PS If you sand a deck make sure the nails are punched or you will remove the galvanising on the heads of the nails.
 
Been using 50% boiled linseed oil - 50% turps for years. New timber needs two coats. The wood loves it. The fasteners love it. Re-coat as often as needed . More often if no roof. Easy. Fast . Cheap. Can't go wrong. Looks great.

LL

PS If you sand a deck make sure the nails are punched or you will remove the galvanising on the heads of the nails.

Yes I remember my Pop using this formula and worked great, I never actually could remember the ratio ,and he's no longer around to ask.
Thanks

Yes watch that gal coating , you don't want rust bleeds all over your deck.
 
couple of tips ...

Fatty 80 ... if your deck is kwila/merbau ( lovely timber, dark reddy colour, bleeds heavy red stain when wet ) if you wait two months the timber will bleach ( fade ). If you like the rich colour , and you want to try the linseed/turps mix, do it as soon as you can. The colour will come back when you oil, but my experience is you retain more of the colour if you oil sooner.

also.. if you EVER use linseed oil / turps mix be careful with any rags you use as they can self combust ( that's catch on fire folks )...bit of a trap for young players..... so leave the rags out in the yard to dry completely. Don't just put 'em in a garbage bag and go for beer-o'clock thinking you've done a good job !!

also.. if you try the linseed/turps and you don't like it for some reason , just let it weather for (say) 6 months and then you can do whatever you choose ..acrylic etc etc


also... whenever I strip a carpet from a reno I cut it into strips about a metre wide and put it in "the shed". Come's in real handy for protecting floors etc when your building/renovating and the wet weather arrives with the muddy boots. After it's all muddied up , just "in the skip". And it's free:) !

LL
 
Another one for the Floods Spa N Deck.
You can buy the deck cleaner from Bunnings but the cleaning ingredient in it is Sodium Precarbonate which just happens to be the same as Napisan and costs 1/10th of the amount.

After the 2 months 'wheathering' scub it with warm water mixed with napisan. Once done, hit it with the Deck prep solution (Oxylic Acid) which opens the pores to allow the sealer into the grain more.

Then I choose to use Floods Spa N Deck as a few people have posted before.
I'm not a fan of oiling a deck, and I've tried the Intergrains DWD which I didnt like either.

Woodwork Forums Decking section

A lot of help advice.
 
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