Downpipes
- Thread starter sue78
- Start date
Australia is a big country
Craigb,
I note you are from Canberra, Sue is from Queensland and I'm from Perth and we all build slightly differently to each other and with different building materials including various gutters/spouting. A closer look at the situation shows what appears to be 'squareline gutters' which definitely have the front edge higher than the back of the gutter (and most probably the top edge of the fascia) but this gutter is of the slotted variety which is supposed to be the 'provision for overflow' quoted in the BCA. Nonetheless, during a heavy downpour/storm (wind) event when the gutter is full of water the wind will indeed cause water to enter over the back of the gutter onto the boxed eaves lining; this will be exacerbated if there are not enough downpipes in the correct position (especially where the valley discharges into the eaves gutter). I am wrong to say that the water could enter inside the house here because on closer inspection the eaves sheet stops at the brick wall; in Western Australia this detail would have the eaves sheet sitting on top of the brick wall making it very easy for the water on top of the eaves sheet to flow into the cavity (remember WA double brick cavity wall construction) and then onto the inside leaf of brickwork; or if it is a brick veneer job it would flow onto the plasterboard (Gyprock) lining. The water in this case can still enter onto the eaves lining causing water stains and mould build up.... How do I know this? Come and look at my place
My view is still the same Sue.... leave the downpipe as is and get it painted in a colour that will blend in.
A final question Sue... If the builder moves the downpipe for you and the eaves lining is subsequently damaged by water will you require the builder to make good because he has not complied with the Building Code of Australia provisions?
Pud
Craigb,
I note you are from Canberra, Sue is from Queensland and I'm from Perth and we all build slightly differently to each other and with different building materials including various gutters/spouting. A closer look at the situation shows what appears to be 'squareline gutters' which definitely have the front edge higher than the back of the gutter (and most probably the top edge of the fascia) but this gutter is of the slotted variety which is supposed to be the 'provision for overflow' quoted in the BCA. Nonetheless, during a heavy downpour/storm (wind) event when the gutter is full of water the wind will indeed cause water to enter over the back of the gutter onto the boxed eaves lining; this will be exacerbated if there are not enough downpipes in the correct position (especially where the valley discharges into the eaves gutter). I am wrong to say that the water could enter inside the house here because on closer inspection the eaves sheet stops at the brick wall; in Western Australia this detail would have the eaves sheet sitting on top of the brick wall making it very easy for the water on top of the eaves sheet to flow into the cavity (remember WA double brick cavity wall construction) and then onto the inside leaf of brickwork; or if it is a brick veneer job it would flow onto the plasterboard (Gyprock) lining. The water in this case can still enter onto the eaves lining causing water stains and mould build up.... How do I know this? Come and look at my place
My view is still the same Sue.... leave the downpipe as is and get it painted in a colour that will blend in.
A final question Sue... If the builder moves the downpipe for you and the eaves lining is subsequently damaged by water will you require the builder to make good because he has not complied with the Building Code of Australia provisions?
Pud
Sue Craigb is correct, you wouldnt need to see council its a dowunpipe... just ove it around side and run the pvc pipe around to the side of the house under the ground...
easy as. well might take you a day and a fair bit of swearing, but a handymand or someone should only charge a few hundred $$ + materials of $100.
its a nice house imo, not boring.
easy as. well might take you a day and a fair bit of swearing, but a handymand or someone should only charge a few hundred $$ + materials of $100.
its a nice house imo, not boring.
We've had that problem at our place, in Sydney. Particularly when the gutter gets clogged up a bit with leaves and other muck.
We have a valley coming down to a corner at the front door, in the middle of the building, but the downpipes are on each side of the house. Unfortunately the gutters also slope down towards the front door a little, so water builds up there, and despite the slots in the front for overflow, we do sometimes get water running back into the eaves during heavy rain (the eaves, which I think are some sort of fibro-cement board, have quite large bubbles in the paint in that area now).
GP
Moving a downpipe is a pretty straightfoward job.
Without knowing for sure, you could possibly get rid of the downpipe at the front and have two new ones at each side. Or if you dont have enough holes (every 12 m) maybe have a pipe run down the side of the alcove - it may be less intrusive there.
I agree though, it wasnt a very thoughtful effort from the roofer/plumber. In addition, Im not sure that the square downpipes are the preferred option. I think the theory is that with all the internal angles, there is much more capacity for leaves and sticks to get caught. Where as with the round pipes - no corners - no catching.
Without knowing for sure, you could possibly get rid of the downpipe at the front and have two new ones at each side. Or if you dont have enough holes (every 12 m) maybe have a pipe run down the side of the alcove - it may be less intrusive there.
I agree though, it wasnt a very thoughtful effort from the roofer/plumber. In addition, Im not sure that the square downpipes are the preferred option. I think the theory is that with all the internal angles, there is much more capacity for leaves and sticks to get caught. Where as with the round pipes - no corners - no catching.
