My musings on Hawaii - part one

Aloha.

I have a few mates and relatives who badger me to write emails when I go anywhere - they like them more them pictures. I couldn't be bothered going on-line while I was there, so I wrote stuff down on paper. I'm now putting stuff into emails for the gang. Thought some of you would like to read them.

Mahalo,

Scott


The only time I’ve even been to Hawaii was when United Airlines used to make people travelling to the States change planes there. So I’ve never been out of the airport. I was looking forward to seeing the place.

But first it was Fiji – for a 3 hour stopover. And in that whole three hours there was not one military coup or cyclone in Fiji! We flew Air Pacific on a very old 747 that they probably picked up cheap somewhere – it was like being in an early 90s Tarago van (the favoured transport of Fijians everywhere). The flight was full of Fijians returning home from Australia for a visit between coups. They’re such big buggers. I would have thought an airline that flies out of Fiji would have bigger seats? I watched a huge Fijian across the aisle hover above the seat before dropping into it with a little grunt. Her husband was having real trouble. They were jammed in so tight they wouldn’t have needed seatbelts. Their armrests worked like levy banks, and I knew if those levy banks ever gave way we would all be in trouble. I remember when I was a kid getting fitted for school shoes and the shop assistant would have one of those metal shoe horns they would put behind our heel to ease our foot into the shoe. Air Pacific should equip their hosties with a bigger version of that to help those Fijians get into their seats.

We were on the last flight out of Fiji that night and the mood in the airport was pretty relaxed. I’m guessing even when there is strife in Fiji things are pretty relaxed. There was a game of football on the TV – Fiji vs New Zealand. Most of the staff in the airport were watching it. From the sound of things, Fiji was winning, so they were pretty happy. I’m not sure whether it was a live game or whether it’s an old one where Fiji won and they replay it every Sunday night.

Because we were flying to Hawaii, we had to have a body search before getting on the plane to leave Fiji. The security guys dragged themselves away from the TV and manned the booths when it was time to get serious. We filed through, got patted down, had our shoes checked, and came out the other side. The only thing that separated the screened passengers from the unscreened ones were those movable queue barriers – ropes on posts. I saw one bloke on the unscreened side pass a beer to his screened mate on the other side of the barrier. ‘They’d be Aussies’, I thought to myself.

We flew into Honolulu at dawn on Sunday. Pearl Harbour was out the left hand side of the plane as we came in to land. It was just after dawn on a Sunday in 1941 that Pearl Harbour was attacked. Our plane was full of Americans and Australians, but it would have been interesting to be on a plane coming from Tokyo. I wonder what the JAL pilots think when they make that approach.

The sum total of my research before coming to Hawaii was watching the movie Pearl Harbour. I didn’t learn much about Honolulu from that, but it’s good to see they’ve fixed the place up. I probably should have done a bit more research on Hawaii - maybe tried to track down that double episode of the Brady Bunch where they went to Hawaii and Greg knocked himself out in that surfing competition because one of the younger kids had picked up some sort of native trinket that brought bad luck.

Honolulu is on the island of Oahu. It wasn’t until a few weeks before we left that I found out there are 300 islands in the group that makes up Hawaii (not sure if that’s at high tide or low tide). No wonder the Skipper and Gilligan got lost in that storm when they ventured out of Honolulu for that three hour cruise (there sure is plenty of history here). Oahu would be about 70klms long by 50klms or so wide. Honolulu sits at the bottom edge of the island toward the east side.

We’re staying at Waikiki. That’s where all the tourists stay. I had been told that Waikiki was just like The Gold Coast. It’s similar, in that everyone there is either a tourist or someone who makes money off tourists, but I’m sorry, you Queenslanders, Waikiki is so much better than The Gold Coast. And there are no loud Americans here! There are loud Aussies, instead. It’s funny how people seem to be more annoying when they leave home.

Waikiki Beach is fantastic – just like the postcards and movies. It’s a beautiful crescent shaped beach maybe a kilometer across. There are lots of hotels on the beachfront – mostly down the western end – but because the beach runs east west, the hotels don’t shade the beach. At the eastern end is Diamond Head – an old volcano. It’s a shallow beach and the surf rolls in forever. It seems like such a slow wave. Do waves travel the same speed everywhere? These ones are so languid. I hired a surfboard and paddled out the back. I sat for ages looking back at the beach front (between you and me I was buggered from the long paddle and had to get my breath back). Every person in the water would have been a tourist, locals wouldn’t bother surfing Waikiki. So it was all very friendly. On the very first wave I tried to catch I stood up long enough to get through a good chunk of the theme song from Hawaii 50 – dah dah dah dah dahhhh dahhhh, dah dah dah dah da. To be fair, if you can manage to stand up on a houseboat you’d be fine on one of those hire boards. I even managed to adopt an deceptively nonchalant swagger as I shuffled up and down the board. Practically every wave I went for, I caught. I learnt quickly to fall flat when things went pear shaped. The water is only a meter deep and it’s a rocky bottom. The rocks aren’t sharp, though – worn down by thousands of tourists over the years getting dumped on them. Then I started getting chaffed and packed it in.

There are loads of Japanese in Hawaii. I didn’t expect that. They would be the biggest single tourist group, after Americans from the mainland. Our hotel – the Sheraton is very flash and they cater to the Japanese. The Japanese men in particular spend a lot of time round the pool getting very red with that quiet determination the Japanese have. Those Japanese not lying in the sun are either shopping, or getting married. On any beach at any time there will always be a happy but slightly confused looking Japanese couple in elaborate wedding gear getting their photos taken. Sometimes they are accompanied by a woman I assume is the wedding organizer. She holds the props for the photos – parasols are very popular. The happy couple never look entirely comfortable, and they keep their shoes on. They don’t do that favoured beach shoot pose where the couple stroll on the sand, the groom with his jacket slung jauntily over one shoulder, tie askew, and the bride casually carrying her shoes in one hand. Or that playful one where the groom has his pants rolled up over his calves and he’s standing in ankle deep water carrying the bride and they’re both giggling like teenagers (the groom through slightly gritted teeth). I guess they rent the wedding gear and don’t want to take it back wet.

There are also lots of tattoos here. But unlike The Gold Coast, no tattoo shops? I haven’t see tattoos on any Japanese, but every second white person – Americans and Aussies - has at least one tattoo. And there are more women than men with them. There are the mid forties women with their first tattoo – some sort of mid life crisis thing, I guess. They want to show that they have a bit of the rebel in them, even if they have never done anything remotely rebellious before, so they get a tattoo on their shoulder or lower back. And now with the number of women sporting tattoos, it’s probably more rebellious to not have one, so they’ve lucked out again. Then there are the mid forties women with old tattoos, a bit faded and stretched, and a more recently inked one nearby. They would have got their first tattoos when they were younger and it was a bit more of a rebellious thing to do. When I was a teenager, we used to call tattoos ‘slag tags’. We were sure that a girl with a tattoo was easy game. Despite our best efforts and the lies we told eachother, I don’t think any of us really managed to prove that theory.

Some of those white western bodies here provide a huge canvass for tattoos. There are some big people around this pool – lots of them Americans. Given the food, it’s not so surprising. At the coffee shop in the hotel, the smallest cup they have is bigger than the biggest cup at the coffee place across the road from my office in Sydney. I got a coffee at the hotel the other day, asked for the smallest cup, and asked them to half fill it. They looked at me like I was a nut. I’ve been reading some of the US papers and the Obama health reforms are still big news. I’ve got a simpler idea for the obesity problem: get a smaller cup. Or instead of calling the really big bucket sized cups the ‘Americano’ as I saw at one place, call it the ‘Fat Ba$tard’. (Those ‘all you can eat’ buffets might need a bit of a rethink, too.)

Pearl Harbour is in the next installment.
 
Nah, no money in writing books, Skater. When I don't have a family to support I'll write more. I do it more to imprint the memories in my head.
 
What an enjoyable read! :)

I will be travelling to Hawaii in May to present at an International Conference on Business. My conference is at the Hilton Waikiki Prince Kuhio Hotel in Honolulu, so I'm thinking of staying there.

Funnily enough, I'm booking my flights and accomodation today. Where are you staying in Honolulu? Would you recommend the place?

Also, are you staying in Honolulu for the whole trip, or are you travelling to another island?

As I've never been to Hawaii before I will be looking forward to more of your musings!

Cheers

Lisa
 
Nice story Scott. Wife and I were there for our honeymoon in November and noticed a lot of the stuff you've talked about.

We took a private surfing lesson on Waikiki beach as well - a lot of fun, but really tough work, and definitely chaffing by the end! :eek:

Did you get a chance to do any of the tours? We did the 'island tour' where they take you all over Oahu for the day incl. pineapple plantation (with worlds biggest maze - we gave up!), nut farm, Pali lookout (winds are intense!), and a whole bunch of other places. Interesting to see outside Waikiki. Also did the Pearl Harbour and Honolulu downtown tour which was great.

We also checked out Honolulu Zoo, Sealife Park, walked out of Waikiki to the 'locals' area which was cool, went to a Wal-Mart, spent way too many days in Ala Moana Center ($$ ouch!). Would love to have walked the Haiku Stairs (not us in pic) but they're closed to the public (unless you jump the fence ;)), but don't think I would have made it, plus we're both not good with heights!

We stayed out Outrigger Beachwalk (with access to big Outrigger at the end of the street on the beach), really nice and right in the heart of Waikiki. The food there was quite good (and as you said - servings are HUGE!), we tried heaps of places but my favourite was probably PF Changs and the restaurant inside the Outrigger which is open to the beach - quite romantic.

Hawaii is a beautiful place, and we're looking forward to going back again one day. Scott, if you get a chance, check out some episodes of Magnum PI - you'll probably recognise heaps of locations they use in the show, especially if you went on the tours. Look forward to reading the rest of your story.

PS Bit of trivia for you - Honolulu is the technically the largest city in the United States as they classify the whole island area of Oahu and some outlier islands (forget the names off hand) as the jurisdiction of Honolulu.
 
Hi Steve,

Yep, I spent about 6 days outside of Honolulu - stayed tuned for my reports on that. I was travelling with my wife and two girls (7 and 9), and the girls aren't walkers, so there is stuff I didn't get to do. That restaurant at the bottom of the Outrigger might have been Dukes? It's a great spot for breakfast.


Lisa,

The Hilton will be fine. But if you have time, go to the Sheraton and swim in their pools. Nobody will know. We stayed at the Sheraton and I'm sure half the people in the pools weren't guests.

If you're paying for your own accomodation, stay in the Aqua Waikiki Wave Hotel. It's right behind the Outrigger, the staff are great, and the rooms fine. We spent the last two nights there. Ask for room 1514 - it's the best positioned room in the hotel. We had a better view from it than we did from the Sheraton. And it was huge room - two queen beds and two balconies. I think it was only about $100 per night. Waikiki Beach is about 200 meters from the hotel. The hotel has a lousy pool, but the Sheraton one is closeby.

Next trip I'll go to Honolulu first and then to another island.
 
How true about those drink sizes.

I went to Hawaii in about 1995, and was hanging out for a coca cola when I got there (was a RAAF flight and they only serve poxy Fruit Box drinks) anyway, got into Honolulu about 11pm ish and went to either Burger King or Maccas (cant remember which one) and asked for a small coke. The drink size was so big that I needed both my hands around it to hold and my fingers didnt even touch (and I dont have small hands). I said are you sure this is a small. Yes maam. It was bigger than the gigantic buckets of popcorn you can get at the movies.

Wow, I swear to god it took me 30 mins to drink, 2 toilet breaks and the rest of the night kept awake from all the caffeine I had injested.

Cant remember what the large size looked like, I think I just was too amazed at the "small" size.

On the same trip, every time I ordered a sandwich or similar they kept wanting to put a giant pickle cut in half on the side of the plate. Whats with that?
 
You should set yourself up with a blog and keep your travel journals online. I've done this for a few years now and it really helps keep the memories alive when you can go back and read about your experiences and thoughts you have documented along the way. The family loves it too.
 
You should set yourself up with a blog and keep your travel journals online. I've done this for a few years now and it really helps keep the memories alive when you can go back and read about your experiences and thoughts you have documented along the way. The family loves it too.

I know a guy who does this, and like Scott, he writes quite eloquently. He tells me that he also earns about $30k a year from advertising and affiliate links; which combined with the odd working holiday, gives him enough to keep backpacking for as long as he likes.
 
My musings on Hawaii - Pearl Harbour

I hadn't thought about a blog till that movie Julie and Julia came out. She did very well, that girl. My lack of interest in computers stops me going far past emails and forums. I might get one of the youngsters here to investifgate it for me.

Here's Pearl Harbour:


Toward the end of the first week I went to Pearl Harbour. It’s the one place on the island I didn’t see any Japanese. Maybe they feel a bit self-conscious, but they needn’t, given Americans are so polite and respectful. (They they won in the end, too, I guess.) I booked a seat on one of the small tour buses that do the rounds of the hotels. It was the cheapest and easiest way to get to Pearl Harbour. There was me and a family of five from the mainland. I sat down the front of the bus and they sat up the back. The driver, a big Samoan bloke, gave a pretty good rundown of the attack and history of the Japanese in Hawaii. Like most Pacific nations, Hawaii was pretty thoroughly stuffed-up by white people. The Hawaiins would have been compliant and an easy target for US corporations and missionaries. Mainland Americans established plantations – mostly sugar – in Hawaii from around the 1850s, I think. And with the white people came religion and disease, both pretty insidious. I remember my Samoan mate told me that in 1850 the population of Hawaii was 97% indigenous. By 1923, it was only 16%. And the biggest single other group was the Japanese. They provided the labour for the US owned plantations and I gather the plantation owners treated them pretty badly – those plantation owners back then didn’t have a great track record with employees.

Pearl Harbour is a bit more barren than I thought it would be. There is a small visitor’s centre with the usual souvenir shop. A 20 minute film plays on a loop in a outdoor screened area. There is a sub – the Bowfin – that people can look over, and some other bits and pieces. The big attractions are across the other side of the harbour and accessed by navy launch – the cleanest boat I have even been on. The Arizona memorial is almost like a holy site to the Americans. I’m going off memory now, but the Arizona was the biggest ship they went down in the 1941 attack. It went down with 1177 men and boys on it. And most of them are still there inside that ship. The ship sits on the bottom of the harbour, but it’s a shallow harbor and parts of the ship stick out of the water. The memorial sits astride the ship. It’s about 50 meters long and 10 meters wide. Each end of the memorial is enclosed, but the middle is open. So you can stand there quietly and look down onto the deck of that ship. And every so often, as you stand there, thinking about all those boys underneath your feet, a black drop of oil will escape from the ship and rise to the surface. They call them the ‘black tears’. It’s been nearly 70 years and those tears are still welling up. They really are very potent – even for a smartarse like me. The Arizona memorial would be like a holy site to Americans. It’s on a bigger scale, but similar to those religious icons in deeply Catholic countries that show up regularly crying or leaking blood in that it draws believers like flies. (If those black tears stop, they’re going to have to sneak out at night and pump more oil into the thing.) Going by the crowds, I suspect that very few mainland Americans would visit Hawaii and not make a pilgrimage to the Arizona. I can imagine mainland Americans heading home and going through the hoops at Honolulu airport:

‘Heading home sir?’
‘Yep.’
‘Good holiday?’
‘Great holiday! I went surfing, shopping, drinking…’
‘You went to the Arizona?’
‘Um…Well…, I…ah…’
‘I’m sorry sir, you won’t be getting on your flight today.’

I’m glad I went.

By the time I got off the Arizona, I had heard the story of the attack four times: from the movie Pearl Harbour I saw at home, the bus driver, the 20 minute film at the visitors centre and the guide on the boat. I knew that story better than I know the story of the midget submarine attack on Sydney Harbour. But I still went for the audio guided tour as well. I couldn’t pick the voice at first, but when I did, things really hit home. It was Ernest Borgnine, I hung on every word given his first hand experience at the helm of the PT 73 in McHale’s Navy – see, there’s some of that historical stuff again.

The trip out to the Arizona memorial is free, which shows you important the place is to Americans – an entry fee would have been sacrilegious. But they have to make money somewhere – it’s America. The souvenir shop at Pearl Harbour is like souvenir shops everywhere, but there was one souvenir that I thought was pretty clever. They had American flags ranging in size from 2’ x 3’ up to 5’ x 8’ (and priced from $36 to $99). And they came with a certificate stating the exact time and date that particular flag was raised over the Arizona memorial – special permission was granted years ago for the sunken ship to still fly a flag. So a visitor can walk away with a flag that had been raised on the flag pole above that holy site. There were loads of flags there dated December 7, 2009 – December 7 was the day of the attack. And there were flags dated September 11, 2009, too. I scanned the times on the flags and one batch was raised at 12.16pm, 12.22pm, 12,29pm and 12.31pm, so the blokes raising those flags would be working at lightning speed on those days. I nearly bought a flag myself, but felt a bit silly given I don’t own an Aussie flag. Or a flagpole.

My only regret about the Pearl Harbour trip was that I didn’t have time to go on board the Missouri. It’s the ship that was in Tokyo at the end of the war and the Japanese surrender was signed on its deck. I assumed it would have been right at the visitor’s centre, but it wasn’t. On the drive back, the bus driver was a bit more relaxed and peppered his commentary with a few jokes. They would have been ones he told every day. The American family was down the back of the bus again chatting to themselves, so it was just me up the front again with the driver. I felt obliged to laugh at his jokes, which only encouraged him. And that meant I had to keep laughing. By the time we got back into town he was running low on material. I reckon if the hotel had been any further away he would have been into ‘knock knock’ jokes. We were both pretty relieved when the trip ended.
 
Great writing Scott. A pleasurable read indeed. So true about the tattoo observations. You're in the minority if you don't have one nowadays.
 
I thought about getting a tattoo a few years ago, Dazz. I was fishing with a mate and we were waist deep in the river at Brunswick Heads catching whiting. They were bordering on legal size, but we weren't sure. I thought it would be great to get a line and the legal sizes for bream, whiting and flathead tattooed up the inside of one arm. Then someone pointed out that they change the legal sizes at times. I liked the idea of a tattoo that had a use.
 
So did I mate when I was 19. Even walked into the parlour and was flicking through the styles. Came pretty close.

Wanted just one, but a substantial one nevertheless, a huge eagle with it's wings splayed on my back - something however that could be adequately covered with a business shirt.....

The hairy bearded troll-bloke with a bull ring through his nose and bad flatulence said "It'll be $ 2,200 all up, one day for the outline, then p1ss off for a few days to rest, then come back and I'll fill in the colours for ya."

My investor mode kicked in, even way back then when I thought, I don't have that much money....bugger that for a joke.

I'm glad it was too expensive.
 
Great recount Scott, keep them coming. :)

We went out to the Arizona, and got the same sort of 'sacred ground' feeling. Though the day we went there were plenty of Japanese there with their own tour guides. Did wonder how their tour guides recounted the events. Did you manage to get to Fort DeRussy? I found that intriguing as well, and had a lot more war memorabilia and individual soldiers stories which were quite moving.

PS In reference to your first post - my wife wanted to get a tattoo done while she was in Hawaii, so we looked them up. There were a few places, but we ended up going with Tattoolicious on Ala Wai Blvd which she liked the look of after going in and talking to them. Booked an appt. and went back few days later - artist was nice and the ink (not a very difficult one) was just what she wanted.

PPS Enjoy recounting shared events with someone else who has just been, but if I'm annoying you with these stories feel free to tell me to shut up! :)
 
Steve, I hope she didn't get a big eagle across her back like Dazz nearly did.

Well that's what I was hoping for!! :D Ha no thanks! She just got a small one under her wrist (where her watch sits - she's not big on visible tattoos) of our wedding date in roman numerals.
 
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