Cost to tie a house
- Thread starter RumpledElf
- Start date
The bloke was going on about welding on the threads on the end so most of that quote is probably labour, that place is notoriously expensive. There's a couple other steel places round here - can you get 6m lengths of steel pre-threaded, or is there another way of jointing them in the middle and making them tight at the ends?
you only need 200mm of thread on either ends, and any sorry most mechenic shops weld, your local tractor/plant repairer would be great start and you could ask about the plough discs as well!
Tractor repair places in country towns are the backbone in doing all of this engeneering stuff, the tradition goes way back try em nothing to loose! hey keep in touch!
Tractor repair places in country towns are the backbone in doing all of this engeneering stuff, the tradition goes way back try em nothing to loose! hey keep in touch!
Oh, and I got the quote on inch thick rods, so it won't be $8 a length. 10m is a long way to span and tension on thinner rods ...
I'll see if I can track down the other engineering place next time I'm in Jamestown, although there is a big building supply place another 50km away again that will probably do it too, we go there all the time for timber and stuff. Be nice if this creeps down to a $200+labour job
Dunno about plough discs but I have a disturbing collection of old rims in the shed, I wonder if those cut to discs would look a bit tooooo weird on the ends of ties ...
I'll see if I can track down the other engineering place next time I'm in Jamestown, although there is a big building supply place another 50km away again that will probably do it too, we go there all the time for timber and stuff. Be nice if this creeps down to a $200+labour job
Dunno about plough discs but I have a disturbing collection of old rims in the shed, I wonder if those cut to discs would look a bit tooooo weird on the ends of ties ...
NAH!NAH! the rods arnt to hold the walls up gravity does that! the total tension is not that much, they are their to keep the walls from falling, and the structure tight, eg if you lean against a brick wall, it will topple real easy with a firm push, the rods through the walls will act like the spokes on a bike. they dont have to be more than 10<12 mm in diameter,
Elf,
You can always buy a couple of 6m lengths and thread and collar them together to give you 12m. As Craig says, its not under too much torsional strain. If you've got to get the die set anyway, a bit more threading isn't a big deal.
I just asked the Demand Manager for OneSteel Metaland who sits opposite me and he says 9.6m is the longest the bar mill makes but the most common length is 6m. The steelworks is just down at Whyalla, and Lizzie's husband works there, send her a PM! That, or just call your local Metaland or Metalcentre. The rep there will set you straight.
I'm the Supply Chain Manager for OneSteel Pipe and Tube so I can assure you we make 12m lengths as standard in pipe from 168.3mm (6") to 508.0mm (20") diameter. But that's not going to help you! We do structural RHS too, but you need rod. If it was pipe you were after I'd have sourced you some...
Cheers mate,
Michael
You can always buy a couple of 6m lengths and thread and collar them together to give you 12m. As Craig says, its not under too much torsional strain. If you've got to get the die set anyway, a bit more threading isn't a big deal.
I just asked the Demand Manager for OneSteel Metaland who sits opposite me and he says 9.6m is the longest the bar mill makes but the most common length is 6m. The steelworks is just down at Whyalla, and Lizzie's husband works there, send her a PM!
That, or just call your local Metaland or Metalcentre. The rep there will set you straight.I'm the Supply Chain Manager for OneSteel Pipe and Tube so I can assure you we make 12m lengths as standard in pipe from 168.3mm (6") to 508.0mm (20") diameter. But that's not going to help you!
We do structural RHS too, but you need rod. If it was pipe you were after I'd have sourced you some... Cheers mate,
Michael
Hi RE
Just to save you some unnecessary demolition (maybe)
Remember you are going right across the house so there is no reason that one rod can't make it right across the house in reverse.
You are going from one side of the house to the other and indicate that you have the space to insert from 2 sides and not from the other 2 sides? No worries simply insert both rods that are going to do one cross section of house from the accessible side and work it aqcross the house to come out on the side you can't access.
Cheers
Just to save you some unnecessary demolition (maybe)
Remember you are going right across the house so there is no reason that one rod can't make it right across the house in reverse.
You are going from one side of the house to the other and indicate that you have the space to insert from 2 sides and not from the other 2 sides? No worries simply insert both rods that are going to do one cross section of house from the accessible side and work it aqcross the house to come out on the side you can't access.
Cheers
The steelworks is just down at Whyalla, and Lizzie's husband works there, send her a PM!
keep me out of this ....
.... we've met elf and mr elf and think they are wonderful people, if a tad crazy when they told us about the house they are reno'ing, and hubby did chuckle in commiseration when i mentioned the leaning wall the other night.but - he's out the mine working on the concentrator. they don't actually make the steel down here.
As much as I'd like to demolish my neighbour's house to go through from the north, taking off a sheet of a bullnose verandah is actually really trivial. The thing is just held on by tek screws to two bits of wood - a beam bolted to the side of the house and the fascia held up by the verandah posts. According to the graffiti in the cement the verandah only dates to 1992.
If this house was in the city and didn't have a house full of motorbike fixing drugdealers to the north, I'd be removing the offending section of wall completely and putting in a huge window or french doors, a deck and a pergola
Or if I was more insane I'd put 3 huuuuuuuuuuuuuge steel beams across the house in that middle section, right through the inside and outside walls, and secure them with pins or rods or something on the outside to make the tying effect. And then stick an attic above them. The other half thinks I'm mad, he just wants the ceiling lowered and no attic.
If this house was in the city and didn't have a house full of motorbike fixing drugdealers to the north, I'd be removing the offending section of wall completely and putting in a huge window or french doors, a deck and a pergola
Or if I was more insane I'd put 3 huuuuuuuuuuuuuge steel beams across the house in that middle section, right through the inside and outside walls, and secure them with pins or rods or something on the outside to make the tying effect. And then stick an attic above them. The other half thinks I'm mad, he just wants the ceiling lowered and no attic.
You should see the INSIDE of the leaning wall. It is in my bathroom. The bottom half is blue, the top half is pink, the ceiling is green (well, mostly green, whoever painted it couldn't reach the middle so the middle is 1900's white, complete with crackle effect) and the bath under the lot is a rather startling shade of aqua. To add insult to injury, we'd just started work in there so the top 1/3 of the chimney in there is missing so there's a patch of ceiling covered in black plastic.
I was going to renovate the bathroom - got all the bits sitting here and all - but then we went and bought the other house ... the other house was missing a fireplace surround and the one from the multicoloured bathroom from hell was the perfect size to replace it
why not still do so - with a high fence and hedge?If this house was in the city and didn't have a house full of motorbike fixing drugdealers to the north, I'd be removing the offending section of wall completely and putting in a huge window or french doors, a deck and a pergola
a) it is my bathroom that has the lovely north facing aspect
b) my neighbour's driveway is on the north
c) my neighbours like to play with (loud) motorbikes and (loud) cars, conduct drug deals and argue with the police and people who don't pay for drugs in their driveway
d) THAT much glass double-glazed to keep out the cold would cost more than the house
Point C is the biggie. If I could afford it, I'd buy their house just so I had no neighbours, but I don't have a spare $40k lying around.
I have seen walls like yours 'fixed' by mounting brick buttresses against the leaning wall.
The wall needs to be forced into position via hydraulic jacks or, depending on your requirements, forced into a more upright position with a diagonal brace. Pour a deep solid base and lay the bricks to hold the wall in position.
After a suitable amount of time to allow the mortar to set the braces can be removed.
The wall needs to be forced into position via hydraulic jacks or, depending on your requirements, forced into a more upright position with a diagonal brace. Pour a deep solid base and lay the bricks to hold the wall in position.
After a suitable amount of time to allow the mortar to set the braces can be removed.
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This last one is overcapitalising again. This house really isn't worth much, spending more than $1000 on anything is just like flushing money down the loo. The hire of the jacks would cost me a fortune.
The wall has moved about 10cm in 130 years, although 1cm of that has been this year so it is gathering speed. But hey! It might fall on my neighbours while they are working on their motorbikes
The wall has moved about 10cm in 130 years, although 1cm of that has been this year so it is gathering speed. But hey! It might fall on my neighbours while they are working on their motorbikes
I am very fond of old Australian houses and I have restored a few. Your thread sounds like a bit of a joke but I will tell you how I got my last stone wall back into reasonable shape.
I dug a hole against the wall where the 'bow' was most obvious, in the hole I placed a vertical plank up against the wall. The plank I used was the sort you put between to trestles to walk on when painting. I backed the ute aligned to the plank, placed a log in the bed of the ute against this plank and reversed the ute till things looked straight. It was surprising easy to push the wall back into position and I probably could have done it by hand.
Once it looked fairly straight I built up two buttresses on each side of the plank about two metres apart. The bricks were used and mostly came from a crumbled shed or dunny out back of the house. The old bricks seemed to blend in when the job was done.
It was done cheaply and made the house look solid! I don't think I could have sold as it was but instead I made a profit.
I dug a hole against the wall where the 'bow' was most obvious, in the hole I placed a vertical plank up against the wall. The plank I used was the sort you put between to trestles to walk on when painting. I backed the ute aligned to the plank, placed a log in the bed of the ute against this plank and reversed the ute till things looked straight. It was surprising easy to push the wall back into position and I probably could have done it by hand.
Once it looked fairly straight I built up two buttresses on each side of the plank about two metres apart. The bricks were used and mostly came from a crumbled shed or dunny out back of the house. The old bricks seemed to blend in when the job was done.
It was done cheaply and made the house look solid! I don't think I could have sold as it was but instead I made a profit.
How much does the necessary length of rope cost these days? Make sure you use a good knot! If you want to get fancy, you can use some silk ribbon from down the Haberdashery.
Mark
Mark
Its an amusing thread As I've said, if it was in the city I'd probably be underpinning half the house with new foundations, removing that wall completely and relocating my bathroom somewhere better. But we're working with a $25,000 ex funeral parlour in the middle of nowhere, so anything goes!
There's not enough room on that side of the house for reversing utes Also it is only leaning 10cm at the top not falling right off, hence wanting to tie it rather than make buttresses. I do actually have enough stone spare to make a buttress and it did cross my mind. I've seen houses with walls actually falling off before, very scarey.
With the pain to get the rod here (it is mostly the cost and arranging delivery that is the issue), currently thinking the reinforcing crosses as per the ties to spread the load but instead of running a rod across, just putting through an 18 inch eyebolt on opposite sides of the house and running a high tensile steel rope through with a turnbuckle. That stuff will fit in the back of a corolla and is easy to get from anywhere that sells rigging.
We finally stood on a chair and investigated the ties at the IP. They are 5/8 inch solid steel rods, and were obviously installed as the house was being built as they go behind the fireplace and under all the ornamental molding around the doors. Much smaller house though so they have a straight piece on the outside rather than a cross, an S, an I (with twiddly serif) or the other weird ornate shapes you see the external part of ties done with round here. The old stone churches here often have two ties instead of just one (one near the top of the wall, one 2/3 of the way up) and they have reaaaaally elaborate external tie load spreader thingies.
As I've said, if it was in the city I'd probably be underpinning half the house with new foundations, removing that wall completely and relocating my bathroom somewhere better. But we're working with a $25,000 ex funeral parlour in the middle of nowhere, so anything goes!There's not enough room on that side of the house for reversing utes
Also it is only leaning 10cm at the top not falling right off, hence wanting to tie it rather than make buttresses. I do actually have enough stone spare to make a buttress and it did cross my mind. I've seen houses with walls actually falling off before, very scarey.With the pain to get the rod here (it is mostly the cost and arranging delivery that is the issue), currently thinking the reinforcing crosses as per the ties to spread the load but instead of running a rod across, just putting through an 18 inch eyebolt on opposite sides of the house and running a high tensile steel rope through with a turnbuckle. That stuff will fit in the back of a corolla and is easy to get from anywhere that sells rigging.
We finally stood on a chair and investigated the ties at the IP. They are 5/8 inch solid steel rods, and were obviously installed as the house was being built as they go behind the fireplace and under all the ornamental molding around the doors. Much smaller house though so they have a straight piece on the outside rather than a cross, an S, an I (with twiddly serif) or the other weird ornate shapes you see the external part of ties done with round here. The old stone churches here often have two ties instead of just one (one near the top of the wall, one 2/3 of the way up) and they have reaaaaally elaborate external tie load spreader thingies.
