Fixing a gatepost
- Thread starter geoffw
- Start date
Over time those screws that bolt the post to the concrete, will wriggle their way out of the concrete, as you suspect.
You don't really want to attach it to the plastic water tank.
The only way to fix long term, is to get someone with a core drill (fencing companies have these) to drill a hole into the cement slab, and then to concrete another longer post into that.
You don't really want to attach it to the plastic water tank.
The only way to fix long term, is to get someone with a core drill (fencing companies have these) to drill a hole into the cement slab, and then to concrete another longer post into that.
As long as the post is welded securely to the base plate, some well tightened gal dynabolts will hold the post as rigid as you can ever want.
It should never loosen by the gate slamming on it.
It should never loosen by the gate slamming on it.
Why isn't the plate secured well to the slab?
Screw a length of aluminium angle to the tank 
Well, might be better to use liquid nails instead.
Alternatively put a brace on the other side of the fence post/ gate.
Well, might be better to use liquid nails instead.
Alternatively put a brace on the other side of the fence post/ gate.
I tend to agree but maybe if they were chemset as well?
http://www.ramset.com.au/Product/Detail/4/ChemSet-101-Plus
Getting back to basics: 50 x 50 x 2 mm post welded to 150 x 150 x 5 mm base plate. This will probably wobble for a couple of reasons: Post is a long and thin cantilever (1800 mm high); base plate is too light; baseplate not grouted to provide full support/level base.
As suggested and for the best long term result sinking the post through the concrete at lease 450mm deep supported with a concrete pad at lease 300Dia X 600Deep would prevent it from any general movement.
Its a bit hard to tell how great the slab is from the photo. If its a standard footpath type of slab it may not hold Dyna type bolts very well. If the concrete slab is brittle due to age and concrete mixture the Dyna bolts will fracture the surrounding concrete.
Depending on economics id suggest the following 2 options;
1 As mentioned above, replace the post with a new one that can be set through the concrete slab sitting in its own concrete pad/ pier. A good rule of thumb for a free standing post with no bracing is to sink at least 1/3 of the length of the post into the ground. For the best long term results don't use rapid set concrete for the pier. The catalyst used in rapid set makes it susceptible to cracking and weakening under duress and the regular opening and closing of the gate could accelerate this.
2 If the water tank isn't going to be moved then you could replace the gate post with one the same height as the water tank. Fix the bottom of the post to the concrete slab the best you can using a metal "L" bracket and M10 coach bolts for the bottom of the post and M12 X 75mm Dyna bolts for the slab. Plumb the post and fix it to the top of the water tank using a flat metal fixing plate with at least 3 - 75mm Gal roofing screws to the top of the post and 3 - 50mm Gal roofing screws with rubber seals to the top of the water tank. The wall thickness of that style of water tank is around 8-10mm. Not an ideal option but one that will work.
Best of luck.
Its a bit hard to tell how great the slab is from the photo. If its a standard footpath type of slab it may not hold Dyna type bolts very well. If the concrete slab is brittle due to age and concrete mixture the Dyna bolts will fracture the surrounding concrete.
Depending on economics id suggest the following 2 options;
1 As mentioned above, replace the post with a new one that can be set through the concrete slab sitting in its own concrete pad/ pier. A good rule of thumb for a free standing post with no bracing is to sink at least 1/3 of the length of the post into the ground. For the best long term results don't use rapid set concrete for the pier. The catalyst used in rapid set makes it susceptible to cracking and weakening under duress and the regular opening and closing of the gate could accelerate this.
2 If the water tank isn't going to be moved then you could replace the gate post with one the same height as the water tank. Fix the bottom of the post to the concrete slab the best you can using a metal "L" bracket and M10 coach bolts for the bottom of the post and M12 X 75mm Dyna bolts for the slab. Plumb the post and fix it to the top of the water tank using a flat metal fixing plate with at least 3 - 75mm Gal roofing screws to the top of the post and 3 - 50mm Gal roofing screws with rubber seals to the top of the water tank. The wall thickness of that style of water tank is around 8-10mm. Not an ideal option but one that will work.
Best of luck.
You'll get into trouble for calling your wife that.
Hi,
Would it be worth getting a concrete saw in to remove a decent portion of the slab - say 250 or 300mm2 then using a post hole digger to dig down around 600mm deep and install a decent sized post. That's what I'd be considering. Th post itself wouldn't need to be anything too big.
I'd say to attack the slab with a crow bar to make the hole, but you might be worried about it being too close to the tank.
Would it be worth getting a concrete saw in to remove a decent portion of the slab - say 250 or 300mm2 then using a post hole digger to dig down around 600mm deep and install a decent sized post. That's what I'd be considering. Th post itself wouldn't need to be anything too big.
I'd say to attack the slab with a crow bar to make the hole, but you might be worried about it being too close to the tank.
Since its only supporting the latch side dynabolts or Truebolts should hold it fine.
I would be inclined to use stainless ones however as due to location will get wet often.
The only issue is concrete might not be that thick to get a decent fixing.
If that does not work in the longer term bring in a 100mm -150mm core drill and replace post with one set in concrete as others have mentioned.
I would be inclined to use stainless ones however as due to location will get wet often.
The only issue is concrete might not be that thick to get a decent fixing.
If that does not work in the longer term bring in a 100mm -150mm core drill and replace post with one set in concrete as others have mentioned.
Hence my previous post re:L shaped affixed to wall.
Also geoffw,you could reinforce more so with an F shaped post at water tank height level and mesh in between from height of gate up to water tank level.
