How would you fix this crack??

I have this large crack in one of my IP's that I am doing a reno on, just about to paint it.... what would be the best choice to patch this crack ie spak, no gaps etc??
 

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I have this large crack in one of my IP's that I am doing a reno on, just about to paint it.... what would be the best choice to patch this crack ie spak, no gaps etc??
Burty by the looks the masonary anchors in the top of the wall maybe
has broken and need to be reset,or there is somthing that has sunk on
slab wall construction,you can cover it up but it's only going to get bigger..imho willair..
 
I think Willair has hit the nail on the head, it appears that there is a problem with part of the foundation subsiding. If you choose to fill and paint without attending to the underlying issue, I would suggest you use a flexible filler or sealant like "Sikaflex" or similar.
 
Thanks for the fast reply's...

When I had the building and pest inspections done, he had a look in the roof and didnt say or report any damage from the roof so I belive that it is in the slab, the place is over 33yrs old.... He said he wouldnt worry about it to much and there is a lot of shift in the soil in Townsville...

Well that "Sikaflex" sounds the go, I will just have to keep an one on it over the years...
 
Thanks for the fast reply's...

When I had the building and pest inspections done, he had a look in the roof and didnt say or report any damage from the roof so I belive that it is in the slab, the place is over 33yrs old.... He said he wouldnt worry about it to much and there is a lot of shift in the soil in Townsville...

Well that "Sikaflex" sounds the go, I will just have to keep an one on it over the years...

Make sure its paintable Sikaflex.
 
Whatever filler you use I would suggest scraping out some of the mortar so that the flexible filler is thicker. If the gap opens up another 1mm and what you have put in there is 0.5mm that means it has to flex 200% before opening up again - unlikely to flex that far. If you dig/scape some out so that what you fill is 2mm wide and it opens up another 1mm that means it only has to flex 50% ...get the drift (this is just an exaggerated example). Fortunately you are filling a crack along the course of the blocks, a lot easier to hide that a flat rendered wall. I have used the above technique in my place and it takes a lot longer before opening up again.
 
No problems,
Fill with sikaflex and use a product called polymer render,perfect for producing a feature wall there:eek:
This is a photo of one of my projects.This is a normal brick house,spanish render on top and strike render on bottom.Pine molding in center to split the color.

It can be troweled on with a rubber tilers trowel to fill the brick joints and another coat applied in any pattern your heart desires.
It is a flexible acrylic that sticks and I've used it on numerous houses needing underpinning / structural movement.
Comes in a 15kg bucket premixed for about $160 ($100 my price)
 

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