Replastering damp wall

I removed a plaster on a wall backing to a shower that had been leaking for some time.
The leak has been fixed and now I need to replaster it.
When plaster was removed on Sunday the wall was quite damp.
I went to Bunnings today to buy a top coat to replaster and was told I should wait 3 months for the wall to dry.
This is an rental property and I can't wait 3 months.
The area is about 1.5 square meter.

Is there anything I can do to speed up the process?
 
Put a good heater in front of the wall to allow the original plaster to dry.
depends where you live? for how long this will take?

You need two coats of base coat first, this will go off! in about 1 hr each coat.
so say 2 hrs.

Then you skim the surface with TOP COAT, the top coat sand easily and is a soft/blended finnish.Allow 24 hrs,{ ie back tomorrow} to dry sand, seal, and paint.
DO NOT! hope your listening .DO NOT! fill the job with top coat as it will take weeks to dry.
The guy at bunnings ! he lies!
 
not sure if you meant inside the shower or the wall behind the shower in another room.
If the latter then I would cut a large sheet away, allow the wall to fully dry out, or get a hot air blower in to dry it faster, then resheet and replaster. done. Cut the sheet from the middle of a stud to the middle of another stud so they have a stud behind when you join them.
like craigb said, use base coat then finishing coats. Just be aware that base coat is very hard to sand so use it carefully. I use base coat 45 (45min to go off) in the joint, then paper roll, then more base coat skimmed on top. Thats the first coat, then apply more base coat when its dry. When thats dry, use the top coat and each time spread it wider but very thinly over the join so you don't make a hill.
 
If it is solid plaster (as it sounds or you could just whack on a new sheet of gyprock) you might find the damp in the wall will try and ooze its way out through the new plaster and make stains. If there's any salt it won't stick, but with just a water leak you should be ok.

You can make the stuff to render the wall out of hydrated lime and hardwall plaster (mix as per packet directions), Bunnings sells both but hidden in a deep dark corner and their staff don't seem to know about it. Its about $10ish for a 20kg bag and they probably don't sell smaller bags. If you want the equivalent product in a premix that is easier to work with, cornice adhesive has loosely the same properties, costs quite a lot more per kilo but comes in smaller bags if you don't need so much.

Top coat won't dry any time soon on a damp wall and is very soft. Plaster and lime (this includes cornice adhesive) will dry underwater (I'm not kidding) and is hard and smooth - almost glossy - but you have to tool it smooth with a clean, flat metal trowel while it is going off (which is an art form in itself), you can't sand it. You don't want to do a deep coat of any kind of plastery stuff as it is very hard to work with on something more than about 1/2cm deep. Top coat is designed for very very shallow joins between plasterboard and will crack if you put it on more than about 1mm thick, anything plaster based can be put on as deep as you want and won't crack, it just gets hard to work with when it is deep. Get some brickie's mortar on there first to render the wall to the right depth if you need to, and if there's issues with it sticking add some bonding agent to the mortar.

Yes, I've done a LOT of hardwall plaster repairs in the last few years. Its so hard to get the damn stuff flat and smooth we just pay an old (young bucks usually don't know solid plastering) ex-tradie to do any larger areas. He makes it look easy.

I'd still put a blower on that wall for a day or so first, whatever you do.
 
Thanks again guys.
I was going to put top coat straight on the plaster.
Lucky I asked here.
The the current plaster is very thin, maybe 2 - 3 mm thick. The next level is the render itself.
The cement render is still intact so I don't need to fix it.
In this case I will have to apply the base coat quite thinly then apply a very thin top coat on top of it.
If the base coat is good enough I think I'll skip the top coat and just paint it??
Why do I need to seal it before painting? What do I use?

By the way, I have a fan blowing on the wet area since Sunday.
I went there today to check and the wall felt dry.
Will go to Bunnings soon.

Maybe I'll try Wet Area Base Coat.
http://www.gyprock.com.au/our-produ...compounds--adhesives/gyprock™-base-coats.aspx

Thanks heaps!
 
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