Window rot

We recently bought. One of the timber windows has rotted away about 5 cubic cm in one corner. It's a lovely old sash window with small square panes, over $1000 to replace with a new window.

Any ideas to fix it? Liquid nails???
 
Hammer, sharp chisel. Cut out all of the rotten timber. Prime the new section. Replace section with similar section of hardwood sill from a timber supplier/joinery.

Or you could take the window out (take off architraves, pop off the galv straps/cut plugs/nails in brickwork, remove the sill, put a new sill on, and reverse the removal.

Not for the faint hearted.
 
Those type of hardeners have been around for ages. The problem is getting them to penetrate far enough.
As someone who has owned a couple of old timber boats, the best plan is to remove the rot and replace it with timber. But I have used builders bog, too.
I wonder whether the original poster - Elke - is still around? It would be good to see a photo of this:

One of the timber windows has rotted away about 5 cubic cm in one corner.

Doesn't sound to drastic.
 
Hi not sure if the photo uploaded or not. We've been quoted $2500 for two new windows just plain aluminium sash windows n new architraves. Another friend tho said just clean out the rotted part and then builders bog the window, and get a builder to put on architraves.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    685.3 KB · Views: 94
I've used bog and it worked OK. Don't use too much hardener when mixing otherwise it'll dry up on ya too quick.

I've also removed a window sill and substituted some skirting board as a new sill. Painted it up and you can hardly tell the diff lol.
 
I've used bog and it worked OK. Don't use too much hardener when mixing otherwise it'll dry up on ya too quick.

I've also removed a window sill and substituted some skirting board as a new sill. Painted it up and you can hardly tell the diff lol.

Thanks Datto. Do architraves need flashing or you just put them on? Skirting boards a great idea.
 
No flashing in my case. House is fibro and built in early 70s. Plus in my case the window sill is about 2 inches off the ground lol, hence the wood rot. My loungeroom windows are huge.

I believe modern houses use flashing above and below windows to channel water to weep holes. Once you start pulling things apart you'll see if there is any flashing.
 
Looks like a complete sill replacement - cheaper to pull out the window and replace the lot - like for like ( or upgrade to Windows 8).

A sill has a specific profile and is usually made of hardwood. it has a drip groove underneath to stop water getting in underneath. I wouldn't suggest using anything thinner.

The black thing under the sill is the alcor flashing which directs water away from inside the building, it has a turn up at the back edge which stops blow back (as opposed to a turnip).

It doesn't matter what you use for the profile of the architraves provided that you use an appropriate external timber which has been primed prior to installation and painted on completion.
 
Ok Rolf, very lame on my part. It's early on a Sunday morning and I'm already at the pool. (BTW I preferred xp but it doesn't comply with the BCA).
 
Looks like a complete sill replacement - cheaper to pull out the window and replace the lot - like for like ( or upgrade to Windows 8).

A sill has a specific profile and is usually made of hardwood. it has a drip groove underneath to stop water getting in underneath. I wouldn't suggest using anything thinner.

The black thing under the sill is the alcor flashing which directs water away from inside the building, it has a turn up at the back edge which stops blow back (as opposed to a turnip).

It doesn't matter what you use for the profile of the architraves provided that you use an appropriate external timber which has been primed prior to installation and painted on completion.

Prefer Vista for my windows...(boom boom)
 
Just had a better look at your photo on my PC (Win95 lol).

Yeah have to agree with others, that sill is cactus and you have the flashing there also. A nifty handyman would charge about $200 - $250 to fix that up IMO.
 
ANYTHING can be patched up . A combination of trusty builders bog and some new timber and then a GOOD coat of paint (oil based primer, oil undercoat and two gloss (water based) top coats.

And the main trick is ALWAYS have some type of awning/roof etc over all your external windows and doors. Just keep the rain off and you'll extend their life heaps. LL
 
Back
Top