3 day reno Bathroom :)
- Thread starter Tim86
- Start date
Thanks
Cost about $1500 all up.
The big items were:
Bath $750
Vanity $130
Toilet $100
Tiles $250
Then misc: wood, mouldings, paint, etc...
Looks nice. Though the obvious design flaw is how much water will be sloshed from the person under the shower head around the open surrounds of the bath onto the floor and untiled wall areas
Nice work.It does look good. As DaveM mentioned, there will be a bit of water spraying over the tiles. Did you waterproof the floor boards?
Agree - looks nice, however not sure of the practicality of a shower over a free standing bath.
I was watching Ch 7's new renovation show last night 'House Rules'- one of the contestants was going to do something similar. When asked about the water splash, they tried to explain that the shower wasn't really for showering, it was for 'rinsing'
I was watching Ch 7's new renovation show last night 'House Rules'- one of the contestants was going to do something similar. When asked about the water splash, they tried to explain that the shower wasn't really for showering, it was for 'rinsing'
you will defintely have to put a glass panel or something in to stop the over spray.
My unit i reno'd last year had a shower over the bath and i pulled the old shower curtain and rail down because it was in terrible condition. Took me about 2 months to put another one back up.
For those 2 months of showering there was water everywhere after we had a shower. We had to use a broom thing with window wiper thing on the end to push all the water down the drain manually everytime we had a shower
My unit i reno'd last year had a shower over the bath and i pulled the old shower curtain and rail down because it was in terrible condition. Took me about 2 months to put another one back up.
For those 2 months of showering there was water everywhere after we had a shower. We had to use a broom thing with window wiper thing on the end to push all the water down the drain manually everytime we had a shower
Thanks. Yes did all the work by myself
Not a bad idea.
Or I'm thinking of maybe metal brackets with a pannel of glass at the top end of the bath.
Or shower curtains both sides of the bath, a rod either side spanning the distance of the bath.
I'm also going to see whether I can get away with flipping the tub so the high back end is under the shower as that end is wider and will catch more water.
Wow fantastic job! Incredible work!!
What about substituting the fixed shower hear for one of those hand held ones that slide up and down a pole? Might give the user more control over the water spray and don't think they are too expensive from Bunnings.
What about substituting the fixed shower hear for one of those hand held ones that slide up and down a pole? Might give the user more control over the water spray and don't think they are too expensive from Bunnings.
Spot on
The walls required some new beams here and there due to termite damage. I had to cut some new fibro here and there to replace old damaged stuff too.
all up cost is $1,500 ???!!!!
what about the labour cost ?
did you do it yourself ? 3 days only ??
No labour cost. Did it all myself
No labour cost. Did it all myself
It is a good feeling completing a job that you have done yourself. Looking back to how it was and how it looks now. I also done a similar reno in the bathroom that size and it was a good sense of achievement getting it finished.
I think it looks amazing, three days or three weeks...
We once did up a PPOR bathroom with a clawfoot full sized bath. This was nearly 24 years ago, so different things were available to fit out bathrooms back then.
I would think you will have major water issues if you don't use a shower curtain. A glass screen will not work in that situation. We had a shower curtain made that matched the bath shape (sort of oval), attached at the tap end with two "bits" extending to the wall and I think from memory the other end was held to the roof by a chain (but cannot remember exactly).
We had exposed plumbing made up so that the water supply came out of the wall above where the shower ring was, turned a 90 degree corner and headed to the floor to waist height where they were joined up with a horizontal pipe, out of which came a long vertical pipe (heading back towards the ceiling) with the goose neck shower head at the top. This mean the curtain could be fully closed and the taps could be used within the curtain.
We were careful that we (and the little children we had then) closed the curtain so we didn't have water all over the small room. The hand making of the shower taps/head fitting didn't cost much more (maybe $50) than buying an "off the hardware shelf" model.
Your taps are already there with plumbing hidden behind the tiles, so what I would do is get a shower ring made up, suspended from the ceiling at the tap end and the opposite end. Make it so that the shower head falls within the closed curtain (obviously) but the taps must be turned on or off by placing a hand through the curtain.
This would make it easier for a tenant to at least try to minimise the water going all over the place. My concern would be that tenants don't give a toss as to whether they leave water on the floor every day of their tenancy as it is not their problem if the water gets through and starts to rot the boards (again).
We once did up a PPOR bathroom with a clawfoot full sized bath. This was nearly 24 years ago, so different things were available to fit out bathrooms back then.
I would think you will have major water issues if you don't use a shower curtain. A glass screen will not work in that situation. We had a shower curtain made that matched the bath shape (sort of oval), attached at the tap end with two "bits" extending to the wall and I think from memory the other end was held to the roof by a chain (but cannot remember exactly).
We had exposed plumbing made up so that the water supply came out of the wall above where the shower ring was, turned a 90 degree corner and headed to the floor to waist height where they were joined up with a horizontal pipe, out of which came a long vertical pipe (heading back towards the ceiling) with the goose neck shower head at the top. This mean the curtain could be fully closed and the taps could be used within the curtain.
We were careful that we (and the little children we had then) closed the curtain so we didn't have water all over the small room. The hand making of the shower taps/head fitting didn't cost much more (maybe $50) than buying an "off the hardware shelf" model.
Your taps are already there with plumbing hidden behind the tiles, so what I would do is get a shower ring made up, suspended from the ceiling at the tap end and the opposite end. Make it so that the shower head falls within the closed curtain (obviously
) but the taps must be turned on or off by placing a hand through the curtain.This would make it easier for a tenant to at least try to minimise the water going all over the place. My concern would be that tenants don't give a toss as to whether they leave water on the floor every day of their tenancy as it is not their problem if the water gets through and starts to rot the boards (again).
No labour cost. Did it all myself
Great job
Agree with some comments about the shower
What are you doing next long weekend
Yup as others have said, for a beautiful bath like that you'll need a special shower curtain rail if you have a shower over it.
Something like this
Something like this
