Bunnings or Ikea Kitchen?

Cheap Kitchen for units

can you tell me how much you paid for it???

im going to have a look at the mitre10 $1000 kitchen but fear thats a straight line one as well, since the IP im considering is a L shaped

Hi again,

We bought an L shaped (2370x2200), custom made (but fairly cheap products)... It had cabinetry made pantry incl Microwave provision, dishwasher provision, 700mm bank of drawers, cut out for single sink (cupboards under), cut-out for stove and oven provision below. Overheads were pretty simple: 900mm 2 doors, 600mm two doors (with rangehood provision) and 700mm 2 doors.

Our kitchen guy was fantastic... we got the sink through him, and also an appliance package.

WE PROVIDE dishwasher, electrical & plumbing work.

Total cost approx $4,330 per kitchen including appliances.
 
Hi T.E

As others have mentioned, I would steer clear of Bunnings or Ikea kitchens as they are cheap and pretty nasty once they're off the showroom floor and actually in use.

The cabinets-online company are pretty good although their website is a little overwhelming! I have sent a few clients there and they have been really happy.

The things you really want to make sure you get are:
  • Flat finish laminate (Laminex calls theirs 'Flint finish' for example)
  • Standard laminate colour (that will be in stock for years to come) which is generally less expensive than special or one-off colours and more available if you need to replace a door or something in the future
  • PVC clashing - this is the edging around each of the doors and drawer fronts (don't buy a tape edge as it won't last)
  • White gloss laminate for the interior carcase/shelves etc (this is standard and a great way to keep costs down)

You probably have lots of renovation ideas, but if you can narrow down what you want and you have the correct dimensions, then I suggest approaching a kitchen manufacturer directly. This cuts out the middle man - which means lower cost - and many manufacturers are willing to deal direct.

Good luck with the reno.
 
Hi T.E


[*]PVC clashing - this is the edging around each of the doors and drawer fronts (don't buy a tape edge as it won't last)
[*]White gloss laminate for the interior carcase/shelves etc (this is standard and a great way to keep costs down)

clashing is a term that i am unfamiliar with ,but most edge tapes in the market today are pvc either in 1mm or 2mm depending on the range prescribed for the project .
to get white gloss in a board product for the internal components of the kitchen would incur an increase in cost of about 400 percent over standard white hmr carcasses.
great if you can afford it but to the real world a bit of an overkill
 
clashing is a term that i am unfamiliar with ,but most edge tapes in the market today are pvc either in 1mm or 2mm depending on the range prescribed for the project .
to get white gloss in a board product for the internal components of the kitchen would incur an increase in cost of about 400 percent over standard white hmr carcasses.
great if you can afford it but to the real world a bit of an overkill

Interesting... I've been using this term for 20 years and never been asked about it!

Just to clarify for everyone, PVC edgings/clashings and tape edgings/clashings are usually the two types of edgings you'll get to choose from. I'm suggesting keeping clear of the tape type edging which is made of the same laminate product itself and is the type that peels off easily and is usually found on cheap cabinetry.

PVC edging/clashing comes in 1mm, 2mm and even 3mm version (used to use 3mm in my commercial fit-out days!). 1mm-2mm PVC edging is what you would want to use for a rental property kitchen ideally as it is much harder wearing than tape and will protect the edges of the laminate doors/drawers etc more effectively.

The gloss internal carcase/shelving product I was referring to is HMR (High Moisture Resistant) board - not standard laminate.

Of course you wouldn't use standard gloss laminate on the internal parts! Thanks for the advice arms - he he.
 
The gloss internal carcase/shelving product I was referring to is HMR (High Moisture Resistant) board - not standard laminate.

Of course you wouldn't use standard gloss laminate on the internal parts! Thanks for the advice arms - he he.[/QUOTE]

standard hmr white as used in carcasses can be purchased in either a satin or texture finish ,
to get a gloss finish on board for carcasses you would have to buy sheen melamine on a mdf substrate and the cost as i have stated would be an overkill for the end result
 
HI,

I'm looking for U shape kitchen to replace this how much will cost me?

Thanks
 

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We renovated our kitchen ourselves and used an Ikea kitchen. Initially we were going to use bunnings but after using them for a laundry install we found the product to be poor. So we went ahead with ikea and we were actually impressed with it.

I'm sure there are better quality products out there for the money, but ikea did serve us well and people can't believe it came in well under 10k - and that is a large kitchen with fancy corner cupboards and all. Personally, I would use them again down the track.
 
thanks everyone,

after spending a bit of time on the phone, ive managed to find this


http://www.bunnings.com.au/products...kitchen&searchType=any&searchSubType=products

$749 for an entire kitchen minus tap, appliances, installation,

seems like a true bargain? or am I missing a cruicial point
===========================================
ive installed 2 of these--- crappy

Ive installed 30 odd bunnings kitchens and have the b4 and afters and I think they are fine but have size restrictions for the DIYer

ive installed 3 Ikea kitchens and "unless" its a tiny fart hole of a kitchen that needs tiny sizes to suit it "I never will install one again"

ive just ordered my third "cabinet maker made kitchen" from my "third" cabinet maker and the "masonite backs shi_ me to tears!!!"

I would rather use bunnings ( was flatpax and is now kaboodle) or stratco if it were going into my home

they have solid backs not masonite for starters

chinese vinyl wrap ( bunnings and stratco) has approximately a 4% failure rate at 5-7 years

nearly all aussie made vinyl wrap has approximately 20% failure rate at 4-5 years

Ive seen my kitchens 4 years down the track and i have no issues with bunnings or stratco

I have issues with Ikea ( anything Ikea i assemble has all its screws thrown in the bin and real ones are used instead)
-masonite backs
-thin finish on kickboards etc
-misaligned holes
-missing holes
-missing parts (aaaaaarrrrgghhh!)
-poorly written destructions
-handles with no thread in the holes for the screws
-blah blah and so on


I like to install cunnings kitchens where I can as i find them trouble free and well made and if there is ever an issue your in and back out in 5 mins the same as Kmart etc

thats just "MY" opinion

cheers eden
 
My dad owns a very small Mitre10 in southern Adelaide and has a small kitchen with various finishes on display (cupboards, bench and draws).

I'm sure other stores have a similar display.

I like the look of the mitre 10 kitchens but have not installed one yet

If they have masonite backs I take that back


eden
 
We renovated our kitchen ourselves and used an Ikea kitchen. Initially we were going to use bunnings but after using them for a laundry install we found the product to be poor. So we went ahead with ikea and we were actually impressed with it.

I'm sure there are better quality products out there for the money, but ikea did serve us well and people can't believe it came in well under 10k - and that is a large kitchen with fancy corner cupboards and all. Personally, I would use them again down the track.

$10K:eek: That would want to be one huge kitchen. Or did that include appliances and instillation?

Below are 2 of our kitchens. First one $3000, second on $2600. Supply only (not flat packed although you can get it flat packed). I'd rather not have to waste 2 days putting it together. So on top of that is install and appliances.

I can't understand why you would buy a kitchen that you know is lesser quality than another at the same price??
 

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ive installed 2 of these--- crappy

Ive installed 30 odd bunnings kitchens and have the b4 and afters and I think they are fine but have size restrictions for the DIYer

ive installed 3 Ikea kitchens and "unless" its a tiny fart hole of a kitchen that needs tiny sizes to suit it "I never will install one again"

ive just ordered my third "cabinet maker made kitchen" from my "third" cabinet maker and the "masonite backs shi_ me to tears!!!"

I would rather use bunnings ( was flatpax and is now kaboodle) or stratco if it were going into my home
cheers eden

eden, im a bit confused by your post, in the 1st sentence you say they are crappy, but you would only use bunnings?

Im looking at a certain property, once I get it I will post up kitchen photos, but its certainly ushaped, most of hte kitchens I see all seem to be U or L shaped, and not straight, and Im trying to see what the best option for an elcheapo with decent quality kitchen is, I saw the bunnings one, and the cabinets were all fine, just the bench top seems really crappy, I wonder if its possible to just pay an extra $50 or similar and get a stone top or a mock stone one (see attached photos)

kitchen guy at bunnings did say that the bunnings one wont work for a l or u shaped one but since they come in sections, I dont see why it wouldnt, just got to change split them up (maybe im wrong)

edit: and I dont know why the display one didnt have a sink or sinkhole, where as the photo shows one with a hole!
 

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$10K:eek: That would want to be one huge kitchen. Or did that include appliances and instillation?

Below are 2 of our kitchens. First one $3000, second on $2600. Supply only (not flat packed although you can get it flat packed). I'd rather not have to waste 2 days putting it together. So on top of that is install and appliances.

I can't understand why you would buy a kitchen that you know is lesser quality than another at the same price??

Are these from Bunnings / Ikea or are they custom made?

Cheers
 
eden, im a bit confused by your post, in the 1st sentence you say they are crappy, but you would only use bunnings?

Im looking at a certain property, once I get it I will post up kitchen photos, but its certainly ushaped, most of hte kitchens I see all seem to be U or L shaped, and not straight, and Im trying to see what the best option for an elcheapo with decent quality kitchen is, I saw the bunnings one, and the cabinets were all fine, just the bench top seems really crappy, I wonder if its possible to just pay an extra $50 or similar and get a stone top or a mock stone one (see attached photos)

kitchen guy at bunnings did say that the bunnings one wont work for a l or u shaped one but since they come in sections, I dont see why it wouldnt, just got to change split them up (maybe im wrong)

edit: and I dont know why the display one didnt have a sink or sinkhole, where as the photo shows one with a hole!



the 745 kitchen is "not" a flatpax ,,, its bunnings buy in special deal and they do a bathroom vanity cheap crappy also for a cheap crappy price also

the bunnings "Flatpax" ( now called Kaboodle) is good stuff ( my opinion only) and is on par or better than with the stratco ones

the $745 kitchen comes with a cheap 25 mm bench (vomit) not a 38mm laminate rolled edge and is totally different quality carcases etc
=======================================================
they sell all these as "DIY" and this means DO IT YOURSELF ( thats why they are cheaper) but when you get the kitchen delivered the problem arises with the l or u shape benches

you get 2 or 3 benchtop blanks at no longer than 2.400 meters

PROBLEM ??? they dont come with masons mitres or butt joins or the sink and cooktop cutout


SOLUTION get a cabinet post former or benchtop post former to do it

new PROBLEM (2 actually)
--not my benchtops ----GO AWAY
-- sure ill do the masons mitres and butt joins and toggle bolt holes for you on someone elses benchtops = $$$$$$ and 14-21 days if you batt your eyelids and say please

or you find someone like me that can do it on site on the day of install so the process is out the way and you dont miss out on 2 - 3 weeks rent waiting for benches

but you pay for it as i run a big fat Router to do the job and it takes 12-13 passes at 3mm a time to do one side of a m/mitre then the other side then the toggle bolt holes for each side underneath all in all it can take up to 2.5 hrs for one good join

then there is the 100mm long 12.5mm router bit i chew through every 2 or 3 benchtops (4 if im carefull)
2.5 hrs for an L
another 2.5 for the U
and you will need a butt (straight) join if one side (not centre) is over 2.950 in length (3.500 ish if its the centre of the U) and this can look pretty ugly in my book


ps about the sink in the photo on the box - sinks come in different sizes and its a bit like the food in the fridge photos we see ----we dont get it with the fridge !
and the photo shows a cookbook and two olive oil bottles a mixer tap and salt/pepper grinders ????? surely they are in the box ????? (mongrel cheating _ _ _ _ ards )


ps the crappy 745 or 749 kitchen only has a bunnings 1 year waranty

thats a clue

:eek:




anyhow

you generally get what you pay for ------ or less not more


good luck eden . leverington
 
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I saw the messages and have now checked out your kitchen

it is a U shape and ive thrown a few ideas at you as i think you could revamp this kitchen on a budget with a little help from youtube for the how to do side of things and some time and effort

this might save you a small fortune and the older style kitchen that is still there is usually a fairly solid build to start with.

if you want i can put up my email suggestions and your new kitchen picture and pick every ones brains also

they might say rip it out and start fresh and if thats the case I would throw in a guesstimation if this is the scenario

including electrical and possible plumbing needs (600? -1500?) ?????
new kitchen similar design leaving upright gas and new rangehood + flue kit and install + approx kitchen install

10 to 12 carcases (inbuilt rangehood with small unit either side for looks)

all up (ish)
========================================
kitchen (bunnings) + sink + mixer + rangehood + Flue etc + tiles,grout,glue + small floated laminate floor + paint

approx $4500 - $5500

install and labour for the lot (wall / ceiling painting labour not factored nor elec + plumb )

2500 -3300 ish


=======================================


or i guess you can do up the old for around the 3000 mark start to finnish the way i mentioned ( just ideas to throw around )

cheers eden


start to finnish 2
 
hi everybody

any chance some people can give me a few pointers,

every company ive approached has said, we are competitive with the "$750 Bunnings one in price, however, our quality is better"

when the quote comes back, its anywhere between $3000 and $4000,

Ive accepted the fact that a L/U shaped kitchen is going to cost a bit more, but for $3000, I could put 4 of the $750 ones in, just seems unreasonable

Here is the before and After (hopefully) diagram,
In a nutshell,
Instead of making it a U shaped, make it a L shaped with a pantry
remove overhead cupboards

the bunnings DIY website has me at about $2000 which if it comes to that then I will accept, if thats the cheapest one , however ,just seems rather expenisve for a few cabinets and a benchtop,. Was budgeting $1500-$1600 without appliances

its my first time so go easy please!!:D

newkitchen.jpg
 
hi everybody

any chance some people can give me a few pointers,

every company ive approached has said, we are competitive with the "$750 Bunnings one in price, however, our quality is better"

when the quote comes back, its anywhere between $3000 and $4000,

Ive accepted the fact that a L/U shaped kitchen is going to cost a bit more, but for $3000, I could put 4 of the $750 ones in, just seems unreasonable

Here is the before and After (hopefully) diagram,
In a nutshell,
Instead of making it a U shaped, make it a L shaped with a pantry
remove overhead cupboards

the bunnings DIY website has me at about $2000 which if it comes to that then I will accept, if thats the cheapest one , however ,just seems rather expenisve for a few cabinets and a benchtop,. Was budgeting $1500-$1600 without appliances

its my first time so go easy please!!:D

newkitchen.jpg

what you have budgeted and what is available in the real world are poles apart .
you will have to either up your budget of downsize your expectations
 
hi everybody

any chance some people can give me a few pointers,

every company ive approached has said, we are competitive with the "$750 Bunnings one in price, however, our quality is better"

when the quote comes back, its anywhere between $3000 and $4000,

Ive accepted the fact that a L/U shaped kitchen is going to cost a bit more, but for $3000, I could put 4 of the $750 ones in, just seems unreasonable

Here is the before and After (hopefully) diagram,
In a nutshell,
Instead of making it a U shaped, make it a L shaped with a pantry
remove overhead cupboards

the bunnings DIY website has me at about $2000 which if it comes to that then I will accept, if thats the cheapest one , however ,just seems rather expenisve for a few cabinets and a benchtop,. Was budgeting $1500-$1600 without appliances

its my first time so go easy please!!:D

newkitchen.jpg

will be hard to beat the price convenience quality and support of the bunnings flatpax especially if your gonna install yourself, i tried really hard believing all the hype about an inferior chinese product but no one could come within 20-30% of them so i gave them a go . bunnings has some of the thickest mdf 18mm and tallest tall cabs 2.2metres, there modern gloss white looks up there with any 2pac and twice as durable people get close with the cabinets but they are usually 16mm where the others really bite you is kickboards sidepanels and doors (anything that isnt std melamine) compare these and youll see what i mean. if there is anything missing or broken or you screw something up its a quick trip to the local for a replacement dont want to outlay your money all at once or have room to store it all just buy as much or a little as you can afford.

my advice is to save your money on the cabs go get the bunnings you wont be disappointed spend your money on the bench ,splash, and tiles these are the real things that make a kitchen
 
will be hard to beat the price convenience quality and support of the bunnings flatpax especially if your gonna install yourself, i tried really hard believing all the hype about an inferior chinese product but no one could come within 20-30% of them so i gave them a go . bunnings has some of the thickest mdf 18mm and tallest tall cabs 2.2metres, there modern gloss white looks up there with any 2pac and twice as durable people get close with the cabinets but they are usually 16mm where the others really bite you is kickboards sidepanels and doors (anything that isnt std melamine) compare these and youll see what i mean. if there is anything missing or broken or you screw something up its a quick trip to the local for a replacement dont want to outlay your money all at once or have room to store it all just buy as much or a little as you can afford.

my advice is to save your money on the cabs go get the bunnings you wont be disappointed spend your money on the bench ,splash, and tiles these are the real things that make a kitchen

this testimonial and advertisment brought to you by bunnings
beedingt beedingt thats all folks
 
this testimonial and advertisment brought to you by bunnings
beedingt beedingt thats all folks

Heh I am replacing a part kitchen in an IP over easter, and bunnings flatpack was by far the most expensive.

1 x 450W + 1 x 900W wall cabinet with doors was $325, without handles.

I got 1 x 450W + 1 x 900W + 1 x 700W + 1 x rangehood cabinet for $375 elsewhere from a kitchen manufacturer.
 
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