Copper Plumbing Fittings....
- Thread starter watto
- Start date
In engineering, all threads are parallel, ie you can screw a nut onto a bolt to the end of the thread but pipe threads are tapered so that the further you screw the union onto the pipe the tighter it gets till it goes no further. Tape, or hessian in the old days, ensures water doesn't seep past the thread.
The modern copper fitting uses a parallel thread which must be able to tighten the olive and distort it and squeeze the pipe in a little, so you do not want to use anything which will limit that effect.
And I don't know Hawkins either.
The modern copper fitting uses a parallel thread which must be able to tighten the olive and distort it and squeeze the pipe in a little, so you do not want to use anything which will limit that effect.
And I don't know Hawkins either.
Just from the sidelines,i agree with Sunfish,all i use to do with all olive/threads was just go around the the tread two times with the tape
just gives the bit extra in case any movement comes in, but they work both ways this is water not gas...willair..
Sorry,
Hawkins is a jointing compound..............
http://www.plumberschoice.com.au/pa...440/a/category/e/Consumables_jointingcompound
It generally stops that annoying drip or sweating at the end of the job that is particularly prevelant when using old, surface corroded, or slightly out of round annealed copper pipe.
Its no substitute for a workmanlike job, just helps you along the way.
Little bit around the olive or on the flare works wonders.
I bought a tin of it when I was building my house back in the eighties.........used some of it about a month ago at my fathers house.........still going strong.
ciao
Nor
( SF: what you said about trusting the design, and the engineering is completely correct - however these days you need to compensate for what I call the *China* factor................ )
Hawkins is a jointing compound..............
http://www.plumberschoice.com.au/pa...440/a/category/e/Consumables_jointingcompound
It generally stops that annoying drip or sweating at the end of the job that is particularly prevelant when using old, surface corroded, or slightly out of round annealed copper pipe.
Its no substitute for a workmanlike job, just helps you along the way.
Little bit around the olive or on the flare works wonders.
I bought a tin of it when I was building my house back in the eighties.........used some of it about a month ago at my fathers house.........still going strong.
ciao
Nor
( SF: what you said about trusting the design, and the engineering is completely correct - however these days you need to compensate for what I call the *China* factor................
)I admire good design which makes life easy.
There is a screw available which is V strange. The tip is a simple drill bit, the next bit is a couple of wings and then a self-tapping thread with a smaller diameter than the wings.
It's for screwing compound flooring to steel beams in steel framed houses. The drill bit cuts a hole right through the board and the steel. The wings open up a larger dia hole in the flooring board but break off when they meet the steel, allowing the threaded bit to screw into the steel, tightening the floor, all in one operation. With a bit of bog the floor is tight as a drum. LOL
There is a screw available which is V strange. The tip is a simple drill bit, the next bit is a couple of wings and then a self-tapping thread with a smaller diameter than the wings.
It's for screwing compound flooring to steel beams in steel framed houses. The drill bit cuts a hole right through the board and the steel. The wings open up a larger dia hole in the flooring board but break off when they meet the steel, allowing the threaded bit to screw into the steel, tightening the floor, all in one operation. With a bit of bog the floor is tight as a drum. LOL
