Installing a Zincalume roof

[Glenn]

Has anyone tried installing their own Zincalume roof?

It seems with builders in general being so busy, they are quoting rediculous prices as they are busy enough already...it seems to be win/win for them as they don't need the work but if someone accepts their silly quote they are on a huge winner..

Glenn

 

[Ace in the Hole]

Tools required to put on a zincalume roof:

Snips, drill with 5/16" hex head socket bit, 1/8" drill bit, rivet gun, silicone gun.

That's all you'll need to do a roof with flashings and gutters, plus a little skill, but not much.

Regards

Adrian See

 

[Dan]

It's something I've been considering myself too.
I think the main issue is safety.

My research has found the following points I would have overlooked :
If you are installing a zincalume in a house with old galv iron, the guttering also needs to be replaced to prevent corrosion.
The lead flashing can be retained but you need to place a polyethylene (i think) barrier between flashing and zincalume.

Not sure what the regulations are though...does roofing need to be done by a person registered as a roof plumber ?etc..

 

[sctpc]

it`s easy as Adrain says + the first sheet MUST BE SQUARE or you will stuff the roof. so if you are replaceing it take of first sheet put on new exactly the same spot it should work ok.

ps who cares if its legal it will save you a bucket if you have the handy man skills.

 

[beech]

hi Glenn
go to your closest trade school & find the Apprentice Plumbers teacher & ask him for a couple of the kids numbers that do roofing with their boss.(teacher recommended apps,that is)
You will be surprised how good some of these kids are and most would love $200 a day on the weekend.

Darren

 

[Topnotch]

MOST IMPORTANT !!

Make sure that there's no lead anywhere near the new zincalume - it will eat straight thru it in no time.

Use all new cappings, flashings & tek screws only.

 

[Glenn]

Thank you all for your replies, fantastic responses

Glenn

 

[Kevmeister]

For me, safety would be the ultimate consideration. When I built a Pergola the roof was 30 degree pitch and I did not attempt sheeting the roof (in polycarbonate) because I was not confident working on that roof pitch.

Laying the sheeting itself is not particularly difficult. The manufacturers often provide the appropriate instructions. I was led to believe that the battens are often replaced at the same time as the sheeting.

Power shears will save a lot of hassle when cutting sheets. Laying the first sheet is critical or you will get a stair-stepping effect along the gutterline.

And, do not underestimate how much "lift" even a light breeze can exert on a sheet of roofing. I was talking to a roof plumber one day and asked him what happens if he was to cop a gust of wind and he simply said: "I'd rather let go of the sheet and pay for the damage it causes rather than get blown off the roof and get killed".

 

[sbe]

I've done this on my pergola (15-20 degree pitch).

It is easy if you're handy. You can get the sheets cut to length it they're all square (nicer cuts).

Yes, breeze / wind does make it interesting !!!

Make VERY sure the first sheet is straight, flush, in line etc. Otherwise it will make a mess.

Best to have two drills. One for drilling, the other for the screws.

Haven't had to touch older stuff, so not sure on the lead / old stuff affecting the newer. I'd replace the lot anyway - do it once and properly.

Regards,

Simon.

 

[Glenn]

Hi All,

Thanks again for the replies....and here comes another question on the same subject...

If the roof pitch is drastic, how do the roof plumbers get to the top of the pitch to fasten at the top?

GLenn

 

[Kevmeister]

I guess you have to define "drastic" in terms of degrees.

I believe (but I'm not 100% sure) that 30% tends to be the maximum widely used residential roof pitch because it can still be worked on in a "conventional" manner.

The roof plumber I spoke to said if the pitch gets substantially steep they may start wearing safety harnesses. If it gets like church-spire steep (or like you might get on an A-frame house), they are so steep they sit ladders on the roof (which also reach to the ground) and climb up the rungs (plus appropriate bracing etc).

 

[Glenn]

Hi Kev,

I get the picture now, hire a big ladder and rope it to the beams and battons to provide access to the top.

GLenn

 

[RichardK]

and.......

- good gloves so that you don't get blood on the new roof.

- decent sandshoes with good grip. If working on a hot hot day, don't use expensive shoes as the sole will melt ( I have a roofing friend who sometimes loses shoes to meltdown ).

- start installing sheets on the windward side of the roof. Prevailing wind will push the sheets down onto the roof. If start on other side, the half completed roof acts as a sail. Sheets mightn't pop off, but battens may pull out. Small risk, but big impact.

- any water on the sheets make them super-slippery. I've slipped on droplets of sweat !. If it rains, get off the roof ( slowly )

- get a safety harness and use it. One misstep and you could be d.e.a.d.

- the two drills idea is good. Carry spare drill bits and screwdriver bits in your pocket. When you break, blunt or burr a bit, you don't have to go back down to ground to refit.

- use sarking under roof sheets, conducts any small leaks down to gutters. Sarking results in little or no condensed moisture inside roof, as no airflow between cold steel sheet and sarking. Moisture won't condense on underside of sarking, as sarking will be same tempo as moist air.

- takes lots of care. Gravity is not forgiving.

Richard

 

[Kevmeister]

... and

The swarf from drilling (the curly bits of metal you get as you drill) must be cleaned up religiously or they will rust and leave stains all over your beautiful new roof. And, don't think the rain will wash them away - it won't.

 

[Ace in the Hole]

If you're going to do the job and are worried about slipping then buy a pair of Dunlop Volleys, cheap. Most roofers I know use them because they give so much grip.

To get to the top of the roof on a steep pitch you can simply walk on the battens and rafters where the sheets havent been laid yet.

I love danger. I have put in a glass roof at 45 degrees about 7 metres high and was crawling all the way to the top to silicone and flash it. Was using a couple of suckers though but one slip and its a fast ride to the bottom.

Regards

Adrian See

 

[spot]

Adrian - your last comment sent shivers thru me - aaaahhhh

Glen, I'm fairly sure that the only things you need licensed tradesmen for over here are electrical work, plumbing & employing/contracting a painter on a job of over a few(?) hundred dollars.

Good luck & watch out for the sea breeze ;^)

 

[Tools]

In Victoria,roofing must be installed by a licensed roof plumber,who must give you a certificate of compliance.If you are building a new house or extending,and you decide to do your own roof,you will not be able to get your certificate of occupancy (which means you cannot legally occupy the building) until the compliance certificate has been furnished to the building surveyor.You should also take in to account the working at height regulations which spell out the requirementrs for fall protection.You may think it doesn't apply to you if it is at home and not work,but worksafe inspectors can also knock you on the head for breaking the regulations on your own property.You don't need to drill holes for the screw fixings,The screws will easily make their own way through the sheets.As for getting a coupel of apprentices to do your job,remember what I said about compliance certificates,and bear in mind your responsibilities for insurance and occupational health and safety.

Tools