Kitchen cupboards demolished - Flooring "how to"

Hello all,

Older cupboards demolished and the tiles finish where the cupboards started.

Once the cupboards are out - the floor underneath there is about 5 cms deeper than the rest of the tiles.

Now the new cupboards are bigger than the old ones. the older ones are only about 45cm or so from the wall but the new ones come in standard size of 60 cms.

Do I fill the dip caused (45 cms from wall) with something and put cupboards on top - If so what materials can be used.

Or do I chop another 15 cms of tiles and put the new ones in? (sounds like a bad and harder to do idea)

Hope I am making sense- will try to take a picture later on as well.

Any help is most welcome! :)
 
I know what you mean, but yeah - post a pic. I'd like to see the tiles so i can see why you wouldn't just replace them. I imagine that you could fill the floor with a self-levelling screed if it's on a concrete base. If it's timber perhaps you could put down a few layers of cement sheet or something(?)
 
Tiles are onto a big area so big job replacing them and they are old style as well - so hard to find replacements if we break a few.

Its got wood underneath the tiles - pine or hardwood floors.
 
Can you raise the lower part of the floor using masonite or something? Then the new cupboards can be installed level on that.
 
it is possible to cut tiles insitu with a grinder but you would need to have done a few cuts before as trial if there is o margin for error. Or get a tiler in to do it, wouldnt take them long and they will get it right first time. if the tiles are old and its all on boards would you strip all back and polish?
 
I would do none.

There is two options....

1) Fill the area with sand/cement mix to level it.
2) (preffered method) use adjustable feet on the cupboards you can buy them off ebay or buntings (Ebay cheaper) and this raises and lowers the spots so the cupboards are flush and then you just slide kick boards in.
 
Ha , one of the reasons I was asking about my kitchen , hoping it might be better to renovate it rather than replace. This things a monster and I know I'm gonna regret even thinking about ripping it out and starting fresh.
 
i agree adjustable feet are awseome, some kitchen installers seem to look down on them rather than structural kickboards, but seriously they are awesome and the cost isn't significant also being able to remove the kickboards does make it easier if you need to clean, run a wire, etc... Just a note i always bolt my cabinets together and bolt them to the wall as it helps make the kitchen feel much more solid.
 
I would do none.

There is two options....

1) Fill the area with sand/cement mix to level it.
2) (preffered method) use adjustable feet on the cupboards you can buy them off ebay or buntings (Ebay cheaper) and this raises and lowers the spots so the cupboards are flush and then you just slide kick boards in.

thanks Nathan.

The new kitchen is an IKEA one and it has those plastic feet (still to open but must be adjustable.)

but the dip is a lot - 5-6 cms at least- are the feet that much adjustable?
 
I had the same problem at a previous house. The tiles were installed after the kitchen went in. DOH!!

I looked at Ikea kitchen but i think they had an odd side base.

I left the kickboard/base from the existing kitchen in and installed new cupboards on top of it. I then covered the kickboards with an aluminium strip* cut and supplied by the kitchen cupboard guys. Perfect result.

* or you could just paint it black after cupboard installation.
 
I had the same problem at a previous house. The tiles were installed after the kitchen went in. DOH!!

I looked at Ikea kitchen but i think they had an odd side base.

I left the kickboard/base from the existing kitchen in and installed new cupboards on top of it. I then covered the kickboards with an aluminium strip* cut and supplied by the kitchen cupboard guys. Perfect result.

* or you could just paint it black after cupboard installation.

Thanks but the existing kitchen had to be completely destroyed- v old!
 
here is an "artist's impression" :D
 

Attachments

  • floor.JPG
    floor.JPG
    21.6 KB · Views: 75
Dunno about how much thread the ikea ones come with, but bunnies have a fair bit I had no trouble accounting for 20+mm on my last one. Either open the pack or call ikea?

Otherwise use the adjustable plus packing as suggested.
 
I would screed the recessed area with waterproofing added to the mix, In the event that if there is a water leak it will not pool under the cupboards.
Fixing a batten to the backwall, level and at the correct height will save you a lot of adjusting at the back of the cupboards and speed up the installation.

Gerd
 
Back
Top