Well, the asbestos vinyl sheeting has at last been removed from the toilet revealing a nice half polished wooden floor. So, do I varnish/polish it up nice and good or tile over. Leaving floor wooden sounds strange in this day and age. What do people think. Anyone got wooden toilet floors and would you recomend keeping it like that.
Leave as wood or tile over - toilet floor
- Thread starter eggnog
- Start date
It's tempting to do, i've been considering doing the same thing.
I was thinking maybe it would look good if i could stain the floors in a pale version of the rest of the house. So it looks more white, more like a bathroom is supposed to look, if you know what i mean. I was thinking to go for it and if it looks crap then i whack tiles on top
I was thinking maybe it would look good if i could stain the floors in a pale version of the rest of the house. So it looks more white, more like a bathroom is supposed to look, if you know what i mean. I was thinking to go for it and if it looks crap then i whack tiles on top
Depends is the house your home or an IP?
The amount of water damage I have had in IP's is not worth writing about - but I would not be going aith the wood in the toilet if it was an IP.
In truth when my little one starts toilet training I think I may have my doubts on keeping it in my own home too - if I had it.
Jane
The amount of water damage I have had in IP's is not worth writing about - but I would not be going aith the wood in the toilet if it was an IP.
In truth when my little one starts toilet training I think I may have my doubts on keeping it in my own home too - if I had it.
Jane
Will be for IP. Looks like it may be leaning towards tiling. yeah, if I do tile will be putting down cement sheating, then sealing joins and all before tiling over. This raises the question. How to cut cement sheatings into the proper stencils to fit around the toilet and piping. Anyone got tips/suggestions or is it just a matter of cutting a lot of tiny jigsaw pieces like a giant puzzle
I have just done my bathroom floor which was lino tiles over timber floor - original. I installed ceramic tile cement sheeting and tiled over that with polished porcelain tiles. The cement sheeting was much easier to cut than I expected, just scribe and snap straight long edges - think of a cement and cardboard mix!!!
The toilet had been done by previous owner but it is not known if he tiled over floor with or without cement sheeting. He left the pan in place an tiled around it which does not look as good as it sitting cleanly on top of tiles. The P&B inspector said it was not up to code the way it had been done.
I have polished timber floors in the kitchen but I think a nice tiled floor would look cleaner and brighter. Its a no brainer for the toilet - tile it.
The easiest way I found to cut the cement sheet to size (many corners and pokey bits) is to mark a centre line on the floor through the room and measure the distance to the wall on each side of the line at measured intervals. Do the same for cutting the other direction if necessary. You then have a grid you can draw out onto cement sheet after drawing a centre line on it. Try to use 1 or 2 original edges if possible to reduce cutting. If this does not make sense here, once you start doing it you will understand what I mean.
For details on installation, see: http://www.jameshardie.com.au/products/ceramic-tile.html
and click on installation manual PDF. I had a little trouble finding the correct nails as specified (and there are many that are close) but you can find the exact 25mm x 2.5 Underlay nails at Mitre 10 and some other independants. Bunnings did not carry them. The correct nails have ridges to stop them pulling out of timber.
The toilet had been done by previous owner but it is not known if he tiled over floor with or without cement sheeting. He left the pan in place an tiled around it which does not look as good as it sitting cleanly on top of tiles. The P&B inspector said it was not up to code the way it had been done.
I have polished timber floors in the kitchen but I think a nice tiled floor would look cleaner and brighter. Its a no brainer for the toilet - tile it.
The easiest way I found to cut the cement sheet to size (many corners and pokey bits) is to mark a centre line on the floor through the room and measure the distance to the wall on each side of the line at measured intervals. Do the same for cutting the other direction if necessary. You then have a grid you can draw out onto cement sheet after drawing a centre line on it. Try to use 1 or 2 original edges if possible to reduce cutting. If this does not make sense here, once you start doing it you will understand what I mean.
For details on installation, see: http://www.jameshardie.com.au/products/ceramic-tile.html
and click on installation manual PDF. I had a little trouble finding the correct nails as specified (and there are many that are close) but you can find the exact 25mm x 2.5 Underlay nails at Mitre 10 and some other independants. Bunnings did not carry them. The correct nails have ridges to stop them pulling out of timber.
We have a 100year old oak floor in a wet area, the mud room where tenants take the snow off their shoes, between the front doors
sanded,
sanded more,
sanded again,
laquered,
then sealed in epoxy, that they use for carbody repairs surfboards fibreglass etc,
glass clear, hard as rock, flat as (what is flattest?) looks good.
sanded,
sanded more,
sanded again,
laquered,
then sealed in epoxy, that they use for carbody repairs surfboards fibreglass etc,
glass clear, hard as rock, flat as (what is flattest?) looks good.
One of my parents IPs has polished timber floors through the whole house, including the bathroom and toilet .
We ripped out the bathroom and toilet floor coverings (tiles and vinyl) and because they were having the floors polished, did the whole lot.
So far it has been no problems, but right now there are tenants there with three little kids, so not sure how much water may be splashed about in the bathroom, or how much wee is finding the floor in the loo.
Worst case is that down the track, we can tile both rooms. Upside is that we can see the state of the timber floor.
.We ripped out the bathroom and toilet floor coverings (tiles and vinyl) and because they were having the floors polished, did the whole lot.
So far it has been no problems, but right now there are tenants there with three little kids, so not sure how much water may be splashed about in the bathroom, or how much wee is finding the floor in the loo.
Worst case is that down the track, we can tile both rooms. Upside is that we can see the state of the timber floor.
I would personally tile it, as over time the polish with shrink at places & if not careful & moisture goes through it will be a mess (especially if it is let out, tenants won't care to wipe water off flooring)... You can apply cement sheets on top of the boards & the just tile over, caulking along the perimeter for added water proofing...
I must say I love the timber look, but would be cautious in wet areas...
Cheers,
Manny.
I must say I love the timber look, but would be cautious in wet areas...
Cheers,
Manny.
I am invilved in the Real Estate industry and have seen a lot of damage from bathrooms thatr have not been constructed and sealed so as to stop any water damage. A builder friend of mine has advised that the best way to tile over a timber floor is to 'tank' it. That is:-
# Firstly glue and screw cement (minimum of 6mm thick) sheet to existing timber floor. Screws and glue to be in a grid pattern of no more than 300mm apart. Use construction adhesive such as a 'liquid nail 'type of product and screws that are countersunk into the cement sheet.
# Secondly there is a rubberised type product called 'Gripset' (you can Google for more info) which can be purchased from a most hardware stores. This is a kit that comes with a primer, a cloth type tape for the edges and a top coat that is applied in a few coats up to a thickness of 1 mm. To do the job right, this is applied to the floor and up the walls to a minimum of 200mm high . And probably most importantly, behind the shower wall tiles as this is where most of the problem starts with water damage. Shower bases in most timber floored properties I am assuming would be a fibreglass style shower pan so this process would need to go up the side of this too to ensure that the 'tanking' is complete.
# Lastly, ceramic tiles are then glued down and grouted. And I would use the best flexible tile glue that you can buy, as timber moves, swells and contracts depending on the season.
Think of this floor treatment like it is the hull of a boat that sits on top of the timber floor. The hull is impervious to water/moisture. If not then the timber floor and most likely the bearers beneath will rot sight unseen for yeras until too late. That's when the real expense starts. Tile grout is of course not waterproof so this method is the only foolproof way to guarantee a watertight seal. After grouting the tiles you can also seal the grout with a 'silicon' type of sealer one of which I believe is called 'shower plug' (also from the hardware stores) .
My opinion is do it once and do it right!
# Firstly glue and screw cement (minimum of 6mm thick) sheet to existing timber floor. Screws and glue to be in a grid pattern of no more than 300mm apart. Use construction adhesive such as a 'liquid nail 'type of product and screws that are countersunk into the cement sheet.
# Secondly there is a rubberised type product called 'Gripset' (you can Google for more info) which can be purchased from a most hardware stores. This is a kit that comes with a primer, a cloth type tape for the edges and a top coat that is applied in a few coats up to a thickness of 1 mm. To do the job right, this is applied to the floor and up the walls to a minimum of 200mm high . And probably most importantly, behind the shower wall tiles as this is where most of the problem starts with water damage. Shower bases in most timber floored properties I am assuming would be a fibreglass style shower pan so this process would need to go up the side of this too to ensure that the 'tanking' is complete.
# Lastly, ceramic tiles are then glued down and grouted. And I would use the best flexible tile glue that you can buy, as timber moves, swells and contracts depending on the season.
Think of this floor treatment like it is the hull of a boat that sits on top of the timber floor. The hull is impervious to water/moisture. If not then the timber floor and most likely the bearers beneath will rot sight unseen for yeras until too late. That's when the real expense starts. Tile grout is of course not waterproof so this method is the only foolproof way to guarantee a watertight seal. After grouting the tiles you can also seal the grout with a 'silicon' type of sealer one of which I believe is called 'shower plug' (also from the hardware stores) .
My opinion is do it once and do it right!
