Paint Scraping tip

Hi All,

I'm currently removing the old paint from the exterior of my old Queenslander and to be honest was almost ready to give up when i discovered a handy tool called a 'Genius' made by NZ company Haydn. Its a tungsten steel tipped blade on the business end of the paint scraper & I can tell you it makes scraping paint about 5 x easier than using the standard scraper. I just got mine from a small local hardware for $12.50, so far I scraped about 30m2 of paint with it no sweat. It's blade is reversible (so you're really getting two blades with the one tool) and the only time the blade gets dulled is when you run over a protruding nail head at high speed. Spare blade packs are also availble seperately for around the same price for a pack of 5 ..I'm yet to need replacements so far though. Its also proved really handy with bringing weathered old grey wood back to brown, a light sand & its ready to paint too.

Just thought I'd share that with anyone prepping to do a repaint job.

Cheers

Jase
 
Thanks Jase.

Was it available from the standard hardware shop? I've found some things only available from the small hardware stores (surprisingly).
 
To be honest I haven't checked the superstores, this was a little independent no brand hardware at the top of my street. Works like a charm!

Jase
 
Hi Guys

Available from Mitre 10 shops in NZ for NZ$9.99 when on special.
Used mine for scraping lino glue off floor before sanding and polyurethaning.
Also excellent for scrapping old paint off window sills and for scraping paint of native timber doors before oiling.

Regards
 
thanks Jase
I'm about to strip an old student desk on the weekend that has several layers of paint. I tried once but gave up - now I think I'll give it another go.
Cheers
Ecogirl
 
I've just finished doing my "log cabin" chamfer home and it needed to have three crappy repaints removed entirely.

You can't use a sanding disc on an angle grinder because it will gouge the profile and look terrible. The way I did was;

Burn the old paint off. Check your insurance policy and see if "applying heat to structure" is an exclusion. I borrowed a professional burner and I reckon they could have seen the flames from outer space LOL

Hit it with a water blaster. This had a dual purpose; to cool any smouldering bits and to reduce dust in next process.

This is the bit I really wanted to tell you about. I then took it back to bare wood with a 4" angle grinder fitted with a 3M "clean and strip" disc. Like all 3M products they are expensive, abt $10 ea but good. No gouging of the wood! I must have used 15 discs but the time and frustration saved was worth every cent. The discs have a recommended max 6,000revs and an angle grinder works @ 10,000 but this presented no problem. These discs are hard to find so start at a specialist paint wholeseller who is not affiliated with a major paint co. Also, don't buy the dearer, harder purple disk.

A quick rub with an orbital sander then gave a perfect result.

I then hit it with the water blaster to remove all dust from cracks etc before using pink primer next day. Allow this to dry fully before starting with acrylic fillers etc. I also had a professional scraper with a tungsten blade.

It's a massive job but I doubt you could pay a pro to do it and I doubt they would be so thorough.

Thommo
 
Back
Top