Painting over Laminex

[brrmm]

I'm about to embark on some DIY that I haven't done before.

Going to paint over laminex kitchen & bathroom cupboard doors. I'm thinking of using ESP and painting 2 coats of enamel paint using a small foam roller. Will change handles over to something more modern as well.

Has anyone done this ??

What kind of result did it achieve??

What sort of life does it have ??

It's for an IP with yukky woodgrain laminex that sorely needs lightening up.

 

[csc2]

Light sand, use solver PSU for u/coat, then two top coats...

best i can offer........works for me well with renos..

wearing: depending on the tenants i guess.........its not the ideal option but way cheaper than refitting...

best results will be to spray but roller will suffice i guess.

if spraying, take doors off, add hooks or nails to an edge, add wire to hang on a clothesline, pick a calm day and spray till your hearts content....

easy to resheet also...costs bugger all....go straight over the top of the old sheet...rough sand before gluing...

good luck.

 

[Pa1nter]

Same as csc2 has suggested,
except with a little difference,use 80 grit sandpaper to rough it up,
Use an oil based undercoat with penetrol in it.
Apply with brush or roller,light sand with 180 grit sandpaper,
Dust off and apply your gloss or semi gloss enamel,
Wait 24 hours,light sand again,dust off and repeat with final coat.
Should look good enough to pass inspection

 

[landlubber]

I'm thinking of using ESP and painting 2 coats of enamel paint using a small foam roller.
It's for an IP with yukky woodgrain laminex that sorely needs lightening up.

Yep. Have done EXACTLY that ( ESP plus 2 coats (turps) enamel) over EXACTLY the same dark wood grain laminex kitchen. Worked great. The small foam roller is the "trick". If your a bit dapper with the final layng off you can get it almost as good as a spray job !!

Foam roller ( with Penetrol & gloss white enamel) is also super for that old rusty laundry cabinet. Inside & out. Looks like new !! The penetrol thins the paint somewhat and you need a few coats, but still pretty slick.
LL

 

[brrmm]

LL, thanks for the heads-up about the rust laundry cabinet. How did you know my IP has one of those ??

Do you mind me asking why you thin the paint with penetrol, and by how much?

Cheers everyone for your input - valuable info, thanks.

 

[Pa1nter]

LL, thanks for the heads-up about the rust laundry cabinet. How did you know my IP has one of those ??

Do you mind me asking why you thin the paint with penetrol, and by how much?

Cheers everyone for your input - valuable info, thanks.

Penetrol stops paint from peeling, cracking, and flaking; increases paint flow and
levelling. It brings life back to faded wood stains, rejuvenates old dull plastics and
fibreglass, and makes paint stick to almost anything. Penetrol stops and prevents
rust, corrosion and oxidisation. It can be used in confined and damp areas and
reduces fire and fume hazards. Withstands temperatures of over 100°C.
Can be brushed on rust by itself with great success.
If used with oil undercoat ,usually put about 60% penetrol for the serious stuff,
About 10% penetrol in top coats for the extra shine.

 

[landlubber]

Rusty laundry cabinets ? Gees.. every reno has one, don't they? Sounds like you're not familiar with Penetrol. Well, it's a bit expensive but it IS good s--t. It really penetrates & seals rust, and it makes paint "stick" to rusty areas. For the cabinets ( or any rusty metal) you can apply it neat to the rusty areas first. (Good idea if the rust is bad.) You can mix P. & oil paint in any proportion. But for the cabinet about 10-20% Penetrol should suffice. If you do use P. only mix up enough paint to use, as once paint is mixed with P. it does tend to "go off" pretty quickly. Here's a link if you want to know more. Only buy small tins as it does go off.
http://www.floodaustralia.net/
Also.. a word on fittings. I try to "save" the old ones and normally can. This means all the screw holes etc fit , which may not be the case with new fittings. So then you have to fill & sand old holes etc. Tread a bit carefully. If they are chrome and covered in paint, boiling in vinegar gets it off.
LL

 

[landlubber]

I can tell Painter is another Penetrol fan ! See brrrm, now you heard it from the "pro". It's one of those products that you just can't go wrong with. Very handy in the reno tool-kit.
LL

 

[brrmm]

Thanks folks, I'll get me some of that stuff then.

Oh and the handles, well I can't even describe them but suffice to say THEY MUST GO.
Thankfully only one screwhole.

 

[Dos]

brrmm,

Plastic ones that look like chocolate biscuits with a pattern in them?????



Dos

 

[Dos]

easy to resheet also...costs bugger all....go straight over the top of the old sheet...rough sand before gluing...

good luck.

csc2, what have you found is the best product to re-sheet with? Laminex and if that, what thickness?

Ta!

 

[csc2]

I take anything my mate gets for me, he works for laminex industries so big bonus for me there..........

anything free (legally) or at cost price will always fit no matter what...

 

[brrmm]

Hey Dos, they sound noice!!

No, ours are square brown (of course!) with a yellow laminex-y looking bit in the middle. Too hidious to even describe properly. I wish we had the biscuit-y ones !!

 

[Dos]

Oh yes, I think I know of those ones too!! After looking at the kitchen in our IP the other night, it probably isn't in great need of a reno... If we were to move in yes, but not just as an IP..... Adding handles might be on the cards though!!

 

[artlez]

I just put some nice shiny round stainless steel handles on mine and they look great! Only $5.50 at bunnings too so they're a great way to upgrade a tired looking space