Plaster over brick
- Thread starter Kamak
- Start date
Kamak,
If the brickwork is straight you can direct stick plasterboard to the brickwork with stud adhesive or even liqued nails. If the feature brick is uneven then you may need to batten out and then fix in usual way. Usually you would not need to do a full frame.
Regards
Andrew
If the brickwork is straight you can direct stick plasterboard to the brickwork with stud adhesive or even liqued nails. If the feature brick is uneven then you may need to batten out and then fix in usual way. Usually you would not need to do a full frame.
Regards
Andrew
I agree with the entirety of your post except the liquid nails part. It has been my experience that liquid nails becomes brittle with time, whilst stud adhesive retains integrity (and is likely cheaper overall anyway)
cornice adhesive is what you need, blobs about 200 to 300mm apart vertically and horizontially the size of a 50c piece sticcking out 20mm or so from the wall.
Place the gyprock onto the blobs, use a long straightedge (aluminium is good) to make sure the gyprock is sitting flat to the wall. Tap the gyprock with the straightedge to get it sitting where you want it.
I gyprocked over 200sqm of brickwork in my old house so pm me if you want more details.
potential issues -
if you have windows or doors in the wall you need to work out how you will deal with the window reveals and finishing the gyprock into the door frames.
Send me a pm if you need more details, happy to go over any details you need to know.
Cheers Stu
Place the gyprock onto the blobs, use a long straightedge (aluminium is good) to make sure the gyprock is sitting flat to the wall. Tap the gyprock with the straightedge to get it sitting where you want it.
I gyprocked over 200sqm of brickwork in my old house so pm me if you want more details.
potential issues -
if you have windows or doors in the wall you need to work out how you will deal with the window reveals and finishing the gyprock into the door frames.
Send me a pm if you need more details, happy to go over any details you need to know.
Cheers Stu
Hadn't even thought of it but want a really smooth surface.
Thanks to everyone else and Stu if you could share more that would be great.
Why not just get them plastered. Not the board..the real stuff?
Usually need to render first and then plaster over the render. Can be a costly a solution. But the best one.
I thought Cement Render will give you a very smooth surface, probably as smooth as can be.
No, it looks smooth but then a coat of white set is done to finish internal walls.I thought Cement Render will give you a very smooth surface, probably as smooth as can be.
Scocia and skirtings off first. Architraves off too if you have timber door jambs.
If you have metal door jambs your only real option is to run the gyprock into the side of the jamb, with timber jambs you can run a timber packer between the existing jamb and the architraves when you put the architraves back on.
Install plasterboard (can use concrete nails through small timber blocks to hold the plasterboard in place while glue is going off if necessay, nail into the brick mortar joints), tape and plaster all joins.
Replace skirting, architraves and scocia- paint and you are done.
Plasterboard is a lot cleaner in renos than traditional cement based plaster - go and have a look at a plasterer working in a new house and then deccde if you want that sort of mess going over your floors etc!!
Cheers Stu
If you have metal door jambs your only real option is to run the gyprock into the side of the jamb, with timber jambs you can run a timber packer between the existing jamb and the architraves when you put the architraves back on.
Install plasterboard (can use concrete nails through small timber blocks to hold the plasterboard in place while glue is going off if necessay, nail into the brick mortar joints), tape and plaster all joins.
Replace skirting, architraves and scocia- paint and you are done.
Plasterboard is a lot cleaner in renos than traditional cement based plaster - go and have a look at a plasterer working in a new house and then deccde if you want that sort of mess going over your floors etc!!
Cheers Stu
http://www.gyprock.com.au/downloads/downloads/Covering-brick-wall_8e57.pdf
The above info is all good. You can get away with up to 20mm irregularities in your wall before you need to go down to the rondo route.
I did test the above system by trying to pull a pice of gyprock off 2 days after I glued it onto the wall, the gyprock broke into pieces before the glue would let go.
Stu
The above info is all good. You can get away with up to 20mm irregularities in your wall before you need to go down to the rondo route.
I did test the above system by trying to pull a pice of gyprock off 2 days after I glued it onto the wall, the gyprock broke into pieces before the glue would let go.
Stu
cheaper option
Obviously you want to use stick on because you want to do it yourself. First of all, good work Stu, great bit of research. You can't just use liquid nails, of stud adhesive.These will work for a whil, but liquid nails will separate, because it's not flexible. You may have better luck with stud adhesive, but you would have to be too close to the brick substrate, so you would need a level surface to work with.
I asked the question years ago about the difference between masonary adhesive, and cornice adhesive, and was told they are very similar, but the masonary adhesive has better resistance to moisture.
You do need a good straight edge to work with, and don't m ix too big of a batch, as it sets really fast. You need to get the internal corners plumb, and then place your straight edge accross the board, and push untill your straight edge meets the boards. I like to backfill behind the recessed edges quite a bit, this makes it easier to stop up the join later.
if you leave this stuff anywhere not wanted, sponge it off, because it doesn't sand easily. If the board is not perfect, i.e you have some undulations, you can take these out with base and top coat.
have fun!!!
Obviously you want to use stick on because you want to do it yourself. First of all, good work Stu, great bit of research. You can't just use liquid nails, of stud adhesive.These will work for a whil, but liquid nails will separate, because it's not flexible. You may have better luck with stud adhesive, but you would have to be too close to the brick substrate, so you would need a level surface to work with.
I asked the question years ago about the difference between masonary adhesive, and cornice adhesive, and was told they are very similar, but the masonary adhesive has better resistance to moisture.
You do need a good straight edge to work with, and don't m ix too big of a batch, as it sets really fast. You need to get the internal corners plumb, and then place your straight edge accross the board, and push untill your straight edge meets the boards. I like to backfill behind the recessed edges quite a bit, this makes it easier to stop up the join later.
if you leave this stuff anywhere not wanted, sponge it off, because it doesn't sand easily. If the board is not perfect, i.e you have some undulations, you can take these out with base and top coat.
have fun!!!
