Same paint type for window sills & doors ?

Wanting to paing the doors (all 3 !), window sills and the wardbrobes in my t/house / flat..

Probably a silly question, but hey, you know me by now..

Do I use the same PAINT ? (I only want white as the colour)

Everything is wooden except the door fames which are metal

The wardrobe doors are that laminate wood veneer look and the insides of the wardrobes are wood & "chipboard"

I know I'll have to do is sand it all down first

thanks guys !
 
Hi Jaycee,
When you say "same paint" I guess you mean same as your wall paint?

I recently did this.. sort of. I used the typical low sheen wall paint in grey, then low sheen wall paint in white for the trimmings.. I thought it looked great and was quite proud of myself until I realised that you have to use at least semi gloss pain on doors, architraves, skirtings because they are high traffic areas that mark really easily. Gloss paints you can just wipe clean, not the same with low sheen..
 
Hi Jaycee,
When you say "same paint" I guess you mean same as your wall paint?

I recently did this.. sort of. I used the typical low sheen wall paint in grey, then low sheen wall paint in white for the trimmings.. I thought it looked great and was quite proud of myself until I realised that you have to use at least semi gloss pain on doors, architraves, skirtings because they are high traffic areas that mark really easily. Gloss paints you can just wipe clean, not the same with low sheen..

I just meant can white paint from the same tin to be used on the window sills/doors & wardrobes ?

Or do I have to do use different types of paint on the different items ?

I assumed I should use a glossy paint
 
I just meant can white paint from the same tin to be used on the window sills/doors & wardrobes ?

Or do I have to do use different types of paint on the different items ?

I assumed I should use a glossy paint

Yes they can be the same - but the metal will most likely need a primer for the paint to stick if it is bare. i.e. give a light sanding - don't take it right back.

Depending on what sort of paint you have on it already - be careful not to use water baseds paint on oil based paint or you'll end up with a sad story like I once had - when I painted a whole apartment and it all peeled off the next day! :(

Safest bet is to go the oil based - will be the most rugged (just don't get any of it on the floor etc - real pain to clean off without serious damage.

The Y-man
 
Yes they can be the same - but the metal will most likely need a primer for the paint to stick if it is bare. i.e. give a light sanding - don't take it right back.

Depending on what sort of paint you have on it already - be careful not to use water baseds paint on oil based paint or you'll end up with a sad story like I once had - when I painted a whole apartment and it all peeled off the next day! :(

Safest bet is to go the oil based - will be the most rugged (just don't get any of it on the floor etc - real pain to clean off without serious damage.

The Y-man


The metal door frames are already painted with glossy thick paint. The window sills arten;t painted and the wardrobe doors are veneer look laminate

So oil based gloss white paint for the window sills / doors & wardrobes
And sand paper for wood / veneer & metal
 
The metal door frames are already painted with glossy thick paint. The window sills arten;t painted and the wardrobe doors are veneer look laminate

So oil based gloss white paint for the window sills / doors & wardrobes
And sand paper for wood / veneer & metal

In all honesty - I don't even bother with the sand papering unless there is some issue (i.e holes that need to be patched up etc).

There's special thin foam rollers for oil paint - don't use the run of the mill furry ones - otherwise you won't get a smooth finish and running pain (the Buinnings people will point it out to you) . Paint *really* thin coats - don't worry if you can still see the stuff underneath - let it dry and go another coat - the stuff is evil when it runs.

And make sure you have good ventilaiton when painting with oil - nearly passed out last time i was using it in a small room!

Happy painting!

The Y-man
 
In all honesty - I don't even bother with the sand papering unless there is some issue (i.e holes that need to be patched up etc).

There's special thin foam rollers for oil paint - don't use the run of the mill furry ones - otherwise you won't get a smooth finish and running pain (the Buinnings people will point it out to you) . Paint *really* thin coats - don't worry if you can still see the stuff underneath - let it dry and go another coat - the stuff is evil when it runs.

And make sure you have good ventilaiton when painting with oil - nearly passed out last time i was using it in a small room!

Happy painting!

The Y-man


So don't bother prepping wood veener, that's like reallyl reallyl shiny like laminate ?


Geez I'm bloody confused now
 
Is the laminate real wood as opposed to vinyl?

The Y-man

it's a peice of wood with wood veneer llike form the 70's

Holy crap no wonder people don;t like doing this stuff :confused::D





What's the name of a decent paint shop in Perth, I'll go to that 1 store & ask just 1 person.
 
I to prefer to use oil based paints on doors, trims.

I painted the first coat on my front door the other day. Yep the smell, but once the second coat goes on it will be beautiful.

I like Solver Paints, they are normally really good, just don't go to the Midland store the guy who seemed to be the owner mmmmmmmmmmm I thing I knew more then him. Told me colour matching would take 24 hours, then the next thing you know he is handing me my paint...........
 
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