Tiling and Picket Fences (more questions from a punter!)

[Nuthead]

Hi Everyone,

Its now been 6 weekends after I began renovations on my first IP - the whole house has been painted externally and internally and I've done a few smaller things like changed all the knobs on the cuboards in the kitchen and bathroom... its taken longer than expected but its all starting to look pretty good! I used Dulux suede effects in 'soft sage' for a feature wall (kind of a washed out kermit green colour) and I taped the edges before painting to get a neat finish - Incidentally I found I got a really good finish on the edge by ripping off the tape when it was still marginally wet (when it dries before you remove the tape it often lifts large painted sections off)

Anyway, there are quite a few things left to do and I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get to them but in the meantime I would like to tile the foyer entry as the carpet is showing signs of wear there - the rest of the carpet is in pretty good nick and I'm thinking it would be cheaper to simply replace the worn bit with tiles rather than replace the lot.

Having said all that I've never done any tiling before! I believe the floor under the carpet is particleboard - is it just a matter of cutting the carpet away with a stanley knife and glueing the tiles directly to the particleboard and space them using those little plastic "X" shaped spacers and then squeegeing grout into the gaps? I know I should work form the middle to the edges but not much else...

Also, I would like to put up a picket fence at the front I have removed most of the wire from the old fence (fence consisted of wire through round treated pine posts set into the ground) The length of the posts (above the ground) are 120-125cm is it possible for me to simply nail 2 pieces of timber horizontally across the length of the posts and nail the individual pickets to it? I would probably lop off the treated pine posts with a circular saw where they protruded above the pickets to give an even appearance (wearing a mask of course) I want to try and avoid digging out the posts if at all possible!!!

on the upside the real estate agent reckons people will pay $60k more than what I paid for the property already (I paid $260k) and I haven't even settled! I have a feeling he's crapping on a bit though!!

anyway any help would be appreciated...

 

[Cosmo]

Go Nuthead !

Ahh tiling , one of my favourites ( I think I’m a pretty good tyler!?!?)
To repair the classic hole in the carpet near the front door with tiles is a great idea. The only thing to consider is floor flex, which will cause the tiles to eventually lift. What you need is an adhesive specifically designed for adhering tiles to timber floors (won’t let the floor flex). Do not use a thin bed adhesive! Grout the usual way. I did one once and bordered the tiles with quad so no one would loose a toe walking over it. It looked pretty good for a DIY job!

For quick timber work outdoors use a chainsaw like the pros do but take EXTREME care with them!

 

[Nuthead]

Hey Cosmo,

Thanks again for the help! but what's quad? I've also thought of one other problem... do I have to glue the carpet down where it meets the tiles to prevent it from lifting up and (possibly) tripping people? also do you have a preference or recommendation for different tile glue products or should I just go and ask the salesman at the hardware store?

I didn't think of using a chainsaw on the posts! I can see how that would make things a lot easier - and it gives me an excuse to go and buy a chainsaw!

 

[brains]

Quad is a strip of wood thats shaped like a quarter of a circle. You can buy it in various sizes and nail it against the edge of the tiles to give an angled edge rather than the square edge of the tiles. I would use the aluminium strip on the edge of the carpet, that will stop it fraying over the long term and gives a neat finish.
You might need to put a smooth edge (wood with nails in it) under the carpet where you cut it to keep the stretch. You might need a bit of advice from a carpet layer on this bit.

Use flexible tile adhesive to allow for the flex in the floor and you should be ok.

 

[Cosmo]

OK, quad is timber strip with a profile of a quarter circle (quadrant). It comes in a variety of sizes and provides a smooth edge transition from carpet to tile.

Here’s what I did.

1) Work out the size of the finished tile job (I chose 9 tiles 200mm by 200mm….3 by 3). Cut a hole in the carpet slightly smaller than this size but cut 4 slots at 45 degrees in the corners of this hole (so it can open up larger than the tiling job
2) Tile away with the adhesive.
3) Bring carpet up to finished tile job and trim with a stanley knife
4) Cut quad at 45 degree angles. Nail through carpet and into floor
5) Grout.

 

[Cosmo]

Doh

 

[Nuthead]

Thanks for the concise explanations of what quad is Guys! that explains things a lot better...

Brains: Sorry, I can't quite picture the smooth edge you are referring to - is it a piece of wood that you nail in place under the carpet to build it up to the height of the tiles?

Cosmo: so the cut edge of the carpet is pinned (nailed) down under the quad to keep a clean looking finish?

 

[Aceyducey]

Nuthead,

It may be best to cover the timber with floor sheeting (fibre-cement) and tile on top of this. This is how we did one reno - avoided all kinds of issues.

Speak to your local major Hardware store or call the Mitre 10 help line & they can walk you through the pros & cons of the approaches.

Cheers,

Aceyducey

 

[Olly]

Originally posted by Nuthead
Also, I would like to put up a picket fence at the front I have removed most of the wire from the old fence (fence consisted of wire through round treated pine posts set into the ground) The length of the posts (above the ground) are 120-125cm is it possible for me to simply nail 2 pieces of timber horizontally across the length of the posts and nail the individual pickets to it? I would probably lop off the treated pine posts with a circular saw where they protruded above the pickets to give an even appearance (wearing a mask of course) I want to try and avoid digging out the posts if at all possible!!!

Yes, you can do it that way. Assuming you are going to run the horizontals (let's call them rails), across the back of the posts then nail the pickets to the rails in the front, you'll be doing a lot of banging against the rails and may loosen them.
It would be probably easier to make up the panels first laying down on a work bench or even the floor. Helps you space the pickets better and level them off across the top and bottom with a saw or your new chainsaw! Then using a level to keep it striaght, nail or bolt the panel to the posts. Don't forget to use gal nails/screws etc so they don't rust.

Good going
Olly

 

[brains]

Have you ever pulled carpet up and seen the wood strip that runs around the outside of the room. Its nailed to the floor with upward facing tacks that hold the carpet when its stretched. But Cosmos advice to nail the quad through the carpet is probably ok as an alternative.

Originally posted by Nuthead
Thanks for the concise explanations of what quad is Guys! that explains things a lot better...

Brains: Sorry, I can't quite picture the smooth edge you are referring to - is it a piece of wood that you nail in place under the carpet to build it up to the height of the tiles?

Cosmo: so the cut edge of the carpet is pinned (nailed) down under the quad to keep a clean looking finish?

 

[gerd]

Hi nuthead


If you tile strait to existing flooring and use smooth edge to hold carpet you will find the height of both carpet & tile will be almost the same.
Also consider using an angle where tiles finish to carpet & in doorways.
It improves the look & protects the edge.
The angle is available from tile outlets & comes in either a silver or gold color.
The angle will need to suite the thickness of the tiles you are using.

The link below will give you more information.

http://www.norcros.com.au/

 

[Nuthead]

Wow... thanks for all the info Everyone!

Acey, I'll definately look into laying a sheet of fibrecement down (I assume you have to attach this to the floor somehow do you use an adhesive or do you attach using some mechanical system like screws/nails etc?)

Olly, thanks for the tips on how to organise everything to keep it straight and the reminder to use gal nails!

Brains, OK I know what a smooth edge is now as well! didn't know that it was called a smooth edge (bit slow there for a while) thanks again for your help!

Gerd, thanks for your advice but I just have one question... whats an angle? is it essentially the metal equivalent of quad? Sorry it probably gets annoying explaining what every term means after a while...

 

[Cosmo]

Use the force Nuthead. All the ways stated so far will work. Once you have a rough idea of the basics your brain should take you from there!

 

[Nuthead]

hahahaha! thanks Cosmo

ps. I bought a tiny chainsaw last night (34cc McCulloch!)

 

[Cosmo]

God, same chainsaw I got 15 years ago. Mine was to clear a jungle around my PPOR. Remember not to let that blade come anywhere near dirt otherwise you’ll blunt it in a flash. Watch out for nails too.

Happy renovating mate

 

[brains]

Have you heard the joke about:

The only two things you dont lend is your wife or your chainsaw. Cause they both come back in a certain condition.

And in the chainsaws case its usually from hitting dirt with the chain as Cosmo says.

 

[Nuthead]

Theres a wealth of info here on all topics! I'll definately keep both of those things in mind!

 

[Aceyducey]

Originally posted by Nuthead
Acey, I'll definately look into laying a sheet of fibrecement down (I assume you have to attach this to the floor somehow do you use an adhesive or do you attach using some mechanical system like screws/nails etc?)

Nails....just follow the dot pattern on the shets - make sure you get floorboard not wallboard (which has indented edges).

Cheers,

Aceyducey

 

[Nuthead]

thanks Acey

 

[gerd]

Tile angle
A right-angled piece of metal. Either Brass or Aluminum,
That comes in different sizes to suit the thickness of the tile being used. One side slips under the tile. This side is perforated to alow tile adhesive to fix both the angle and tile to the substrate ( floor or wall ).
Mainly used to protect the edge of tiles from chipping and athetics.
Most common areas of application are doorways and where the tile surface terminates, this also allows smooth edge to be used up to the tiled area giving a professional finish.
If tile underlay is used where the finished surface will be polished flooring the tile angle needs to go under the tile underlay, in that case it will need to be nailed or screwed in place.

Gerd