Timber floor coating
- Thread starter Dos
- Start date
I haven't tried oil based- I didn't want the stinky clean up. I did our cypress pine floors with Cabots CFP satin finish and it turned out well. I ended up using four coats on a 6mm nap gloss roller- I might try a bigger roller next time. It was easy to use and easy to apply and cost about $99 for 4 litres. I only used about 2 litres to do two rooms so it is pretty economical. Dries quickly, easy to recoat, put furniture back a couple of days later.
It's only a few months old so I can't comment on durability, but hopefully we will get a good few years out of it and can then put another coat over the top when it's starting to wear.
It's only a few months old so I can't comment on durability, but hopefully we will get a good few years out of it and can then put another coat over the top when it's starting to wear.
We went against the grain so to speak and used feast watson chinese wood oil on tassie ok and pine throughout house.
This is close to natural. Oil permitates the wood like a cutting board.
Any scratches or issues you just sand a little and add a bit more oil. Only option of course.
Otherwise doesn't require any further maintaince. Floors should age gracefully over time.
This is a very natural and forgivving finish.
Polyurethene is hard warying, but far from natural. However with the hard core chemicals, the wood can't breathe, makes room toxic on hot days, and repairs require entire room or more to be done again - plus show scratches more.
It is back to nature vs glitz.
Keep it real and I would recommend a natural oil or wax any day in own home. If I was going to sell or in IP prob go the chemicals as that's what everyone wants and expects to see.
This is close to natural. Oil permitates the wood like a cutting board.
Any scratches or issues you just sand a little and add a bit more oil. Only option of course.
Otherwise doesn't require any further maintaince. Floors should age gracefully over time.
This is a very natural and forgivving finish.
Polyurethene is hard warying, but far from natural. However with the hard core chemicals, the wood can't breathe, makes room toxic on hot days, and repairs require entire room or more to be done again - plus show scratches more.
It is back to nature vs glitz.
Keep it real and I would recommend a natural oil or wax any day in own home. If I was going to sell or in IP prob go the chemicals as that's what everyone wants and expects to see.
Abbyfresh, how did you go with the oil on pine? I have read that pine isn't a good wood to apply oil to because it is soft and easily damaged without a harder coating on top. I was pretty keen to oil the floors in our house too and am interested to hear about the durability of it on softer woods.
Oil on pine doesn't seep into the grain as much as on oak - nor does it darken the floor as it does with the oak. It has like a tinge to it, and tad darker.
In this case the oil toughens and smoothens the surfuce a little more. Seems fine, have it in master bedroom and small small room.
Oil is mainly a conditioning process rather than dramitcally changing the look and feel.
