Can any builders give me a sanity check on a quote?

[neil100]

Hi,

I am looking to convert a carport to a living space. The car port sits under the roof line of the single storey house, and is sort of recessed into the house to form a sort of U shape.

Hopefully the attached plan helps explain the change I want to make.

The following is what has been quoted

Preliminaries:
-Private Certification including all certificates and inspections
-Home warranty insurance certificate
-Engineering and drafting required for certification

Construction:
- Concrete footings
- Installation of Cordon termite barrier around perimeter of new floor framing.
- Construction of new H3 treated floor framing with H2 treated particle board flooring over.
- Construction of new face brick veneer wall at front of house with new timber window to match existing including new brick vents.
- Removal of asbestos fibro soffit lining over carport area by licensed asbestos removal company.
- Construction of new ceiling framing to be level with existing ceilings.

- Installation of new eave sheets in front of new wall.
- Installation of plasterboard to new wall, over existing brick wall and on existing wall at rear of room.
- Installation of 6 new down lights, including new wiring and switch.
- Removal of windows between new room and existing.
- Installation of skirting and architraves.
- Includes all rubbish removal.

PC Items included in Quote
- Asbestos Removal by licensed company $1200+GST
- Supply of new timber window to match existing $2500 + GST
- Paining of all new surfaces $2000 + GST Note: Quote does not include floor finishing


Total $22940 +GST

I'd probably look to do the painting myself to reduce some of the cost, but in general, does it sound reasonable?

Does anything seem to be missing that I might get hit with later?

Any other suggestions on how I might reduce the cost any further?

Cheers
Neil.

 

[NBS]

Do you feel the quote is to high? if so get two more quotes and go from there. To me I think its fair and reasonable. From what I see there is a bit of work involved.

If you want to save some monies do the painting but I have learnt you don't really save a lot doing it yourself unless you have plenty of spare time and your time means nothing.

Things to consider insulation wall and ceiling? energy efficiency report (if required by certifiers). You just need to itemise what you want in the contract if your not sure find out NOW ie tiles wall and floor tapware if any (brand style etc) shower screen colour and glass, mirror if any, toilet brand and style, type of internal external doors, brand and lock style, lights and fitting (if downlights make sure they have the covers in the ceiling) type of insulation ceiling and walls I prefer polyester, painting I would assume its painting of all new areas and then finish coats over new and old so it matches, what colour is skirting, walls, ceiling, doors, how do you want your paint finished (if they do it), gloss for doors skirting etc, flat ceiling, semi - gloss - flat on walls?, level of finish for plaster work usually level 4.

I would go room to room and jot down what is required and then go look for the product and jot down its brand style etc and put it in the specification. Doing this eliminates estimates the builder knows what you want and is priced in the quote so you should a have a fixed contract.

What ever it is put it in the specification in the contract that way both parties know what happening and should stop any confusion / conflict later.

Ensure you have payment stages in contract and money to pay at the stages plus any variation monies that may have come up during that stage.

Anyway give you a few things to consider.

Brian

 

[neil100]

Do you feel the quote is to high? if so get two more quotes and go from there. To me I think its fair and reasonable. From what I see there is a bit of work involved.

Brian

I'm waiting for 2 other quotes, but just wanted a quick opinion, thanks for giving me that.

level of finish for plaster work usually level 4.
Brian

What is a level 4 finish, and, I guess what other levels are there?

Anyway give you a few things to consider.
Brian

You have, and I really appreciate it.

Neil

 

[virgo]

Car Port

Hi Neil

Curious to know whether you are going thru the council or a private certifier (10 day approval) process?

 

[neil100]

Hi Neil

Curious to know whether you are going thru the council or a private certifier (10 day approval) process?

Hi Virgo,

I'm waiting to hear back from the builder, who was going to talk to his certifier on whether DA was required.

Will let you know what happens.

Cheers

 

[jeffb5ltr]

Am i reading the final plan right.

To get into the 4th Bedroom you have to go thru the kitchen, laundry, family room and then in. Seems along way round, Could you not put a doorway into the family room and then enter that way.

It would be ok for a spare room i guess but i would hate to send a child out there to sleep as they would feel separate to the main family unit.

Not being negative, love the conversion and the price sounds about right from my little experience with adding on rooms.

 

[neil100]

Am i reading the final plan right.

To get into the 4th Bedroom you have to go thru the kitchen, laundry, family room and then in. Seems along way round, Could you not put a doorway into the family room and then enter that way.

It would be ok for a spare room i guess but i would hate to send a child out there to sleep as they would feel separate to the main family unit.

Not being negative, love the conversion and the price sounds about right from my little experience with adding on rooms.

Hi Jeff,

The plan is not the final plan, it was more to show the conversion of the car port. Current thinking is to have the original lounge (bottom left) as bedroom 4 and to have the Family room / Bedroom 4 on the right hand side, as a self contained granny flat type arrangement.

Cheers
Neil

 

[Sunfish]

I have just done something similar but it was nearly 25 sqm, new slab, two windows, replace two internal doors, three new walls and sheeting on the 4 th. Had to move three outdoor air con units and replace one of them with a new unit and provide a new one for the room. Had to move the laundry and replace it with a vanity unit to turn it into a bachelor pad. (No! Mrs Fish hasn't kicked me out of her bed. )

Total cost $25k with me doing the painting. (Cushion vinyl flooring included) So yours looks expensive although I think I did particularly well.

 

[neil100]

I have just done something similar but it was nearly 25 sqm, new slab, two windows, replace two internal doors, three new walls and sheeting on the 4 th. Had to move three outdoor air con units and replace one of them with a new unit and provide a new one for the room. Had to move the laundry and replace it with a vanity unit to turn it into a bachelor pad. (No! Mrs Fish hasn't kicked me out of her bed. )

Total cost $25k with me doing the painting. (Cushion vinyl flooring included) So yours looks expensive although I think I did particularly well.

Wow - that looks good value and does make mine look expensive, although I think you perhaps got lucky with that price.

I'm waiting for another couple of quotes so I'll see if they are in the same ballpark.

Cheers

 

[Austrianretreat]

To be honest, I would always advise people to get a minimum of 3 estimates for construction jobs.

 

[NBS]

It was easier to cut and paste Neil for your information.

Level 1

All joints and interior angles shall have tape set in joint compound. Surface shall be free of excess joint compound. Tool marks and ridges are acceptable.

Usage: Above false ceilings or other areas that are out of public view where a degree of fire and noise resistance is required.

[edit] Level 2

All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and wiped with a joint knife leaving a thin coating of joint compound over all joints and interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with a coat of joint compound. Surface shall be free of excess joint compound. Tool marks and ridges are acceptable. Joint compound applied over the body of the tape at the time of tape embedment shall be considered a separate coat of joint compound and shall satisfy the conditions of this level.

Usage: As a substrate for tile walls and ceilings as well as in garages, warehouses, and other places where appearance is not a primary concern.

[edit] Level 3

All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and one additional coat of joint compound applied over all joints and interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with two separate coats of joint compound. All joint compound shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. It is recommended that the prepared surface be coated with a drywall primer prior to the application of final finishes.

Usage: Suitable base for heavy-medium textured paint or other thick finishes.

[edit] Level 4

All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and two separate coats of joint compound applied over all flat joints and one separate coat of joint compound applied over interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with three separate coats of joint compound. All joint compound shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. It is recommended that the prepared surface be coated with a drywall primer prior to the application of final finishes.

Usage: "Standard" household and office walls. Used with light or non-textured finishes. Not suitable for harsh lighting conditions, which may highlight minor imperfections

[edit] Level 5

All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and two separate coats of joint compound applied over all flat joints and one separate coat of joint compound applied over interior angles. Fastener heads and accessories shall be covered with three separate coats of joint compound. A thin skim coat of joint compound, or a material manufactured especially for this purpose, shall be applied to the entire surface. The surface shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. It is recommended that the prepared surface be coated with a drywall primer prior to the application of finish paint. The skim coat is a final leveling agent suitable to smooth out a surface to be used under the harshest lighting conditions that may otherwise highlight any imperfections under the finished surface.

Usage: Gloss and entirely non-textured surfaces

 

[neil100]

It was easier to cut and paste Neil for your information.

Thanks! - I have confirmed that it is a level 4 finish.