i am already too far into this, i'll prep the wall fill it up with cementsheeting and try and bring it out 6/8 of inch.. and flush it with thinset then another layer of thinset and tiles after that... i guess its good learning curve... i would never trust a double brickwall to be straight ever again..
Kitchen splashbacks height from bench..
- Thread starter atti
- Start date
See, this is why we got a builder to do our kitchen.
He swore a lot because the wall wasn't straight, swore some more that the fireplace we put a pantry in wasn't square, and swore more because our windowledge above the kitchen sink isn't level.
End result on the other hand is bloody fantastic, no gaps anywhere.
He swore a lot because the wall wasn't straight, swore some more that the fireplace we put a pantry in wasn't square, and swore more because our windowledge above the kitchen sink isn't level.
End result on the other hand is bloody fantastic, no gaps anywhere.
With Arms here
Thank God i wan't the only one to pck that up Arms.
That is one veeeery low benchtop lol.
BTW, there was mention of having to raise the wall units to 600mm then 650mm and even 750mm. I would like to point out that you do not have to raise your wall units to this height - Just the rangehood, unless of course you plan on installing all your wall units over the cooker.
As ARMS mentioned prior, 600mm for elec, 650mm for Gas as a min. The rest of your units can still go in @ 600mm or there abouts.
Allow 4mm extra ifyou are using 600mm tiles as there will be descrepancies, and you don't want to be trying to trim mm off a tile. The gaps can be taken with grout ad silicone
FYI-a 600mm tile can be anywhere from 603mm to 595mm depending on quality.
Adrien Mamet
www.mametconstructions.com.au
Thank God i wan't the only one to pck that up Arms.
That is one veeeery low benchtop lol.
BTW, there was mention of having to raise the wall units to 600mm then 650mm and even 750mm. I would like to point out that you do not have to raise your wall units to this height - Just the rangehood, unless of course you plan on installing all your wall units over the cooker.
As ARMS mentioned prior, 600mm for elec, 650mm for Gas as a min. The rest of your units can still go in @ 600mm or there abouts.
Allow 4mm extra ifyou are using 600mm tiles as there will be descrepancies, and you don't want to be trying to trim mm off a tile. The gaps can be taken with grout ad silicone
FYI-a 600mm tile can be anywhere from 603mm to 595mm depending on quality.
Adrien Mamet
www.mametconstructions.com.au
damn tiling isnt as easy to get the thinset adhesive to spread evenly, i guess this is where the skill factor comes in with tiling, i've got all the tiles layed out on a dry run everything lines up but when i do the thinset, the tiles dont quiet line up after i wiggle and twisted it in, i think i push to hard and give to much pressure or not add enough quantity...
any tips of spreading the adheasive ? i know i am going cheap and not using a proper trowel instead i use those plastic 3 $ ones
any tips of spreading the adheasive ? i know i am going cheap and not using a proper trowel instead i use those plastic 3 $ ones
Nothing wrong with a $3 notched spreader. You're using a notched one, right? It gives a very even coverage with a notched one. Otherwise for wall tiles, using a small paint scraper (1-2" across) and sticking umpteen (definition of 'umpteen' varies with size of tile) even-sized even-spaced splots of glug on the back seems to work a treat. On floor tiles the notched spreader is essential or your tiles will break when you put something heavy on them.
I've done a reasonable amount of tiling - apparently I'm good at it and don't screw it up, but I'm the sort that used to make twiddly cardboard models and clay sculptures and things when I was younger and I think tiling falls in the same category of Stuff. The other half is hopeless at it, he lacks the finesse.
Tiling isn't that hard, the trick really is just to get a fairly even layer of whatever glug you're sticking it to the floor/wall with, otherwise you have to really mess around to get the tiles to sit flat. Too much and you get goo oozing out the sides, which messes with the next tile you put down. Oh, and use spacers. Spacers were invented for a reason.
Which reminds me, I have 40sqm of tiles, 20kg of grout and 9 bags of tile adhesive waiting for my attention on the front verandah. And a horribly uneven home-laid concrete floor to stick em to. I just have to evict a lot of furniture, a cat and two small children first ...
I've done a reasonable amount of tiling - apparently I'm good at it and don't screw it up, but I'm the sort that used to make twiddly cardboard models and clay sculptures and things when I was younger and I think tiling falls in the same category of Stuff. The other half is hopeless at it, he lacks the finesse.
Tiling isn't that hard, the trick really is just to get a fairly even layer of whatever glug you're sticking it to the floor/wall with, otherwise you have to really mess around to get the tiles to sit flat. Too much and you get goo oozing out the sides, which messes with the next tile you put down. Oh, and use spacers. Spacers were invented for a reason.
Which reminds me, I have 40sqm of tiles, 20kg of grout and 9 bags of tile adhesive waiting for my attention on the front verandah. And a horribly uneven home-laid concrete floor to stick em to. I just have to evict a lot of furniture, a cat and two small children first ...
tiling
Rumple is correct here, a cheap notched trowel wil do fine. the notches shoud be 5-6mm for the wall tiles. This allows for spread when you press the tiles into place. Do not try to press them till they hit the wall behind, just enough to ensure that the glue has spread.
Rumple, sounds like a few bags of ardit is in order. Oh yeah and time
Adrien Mamet
www.mametconstructions.com.au
Rumple is correct here, a cheap notched trowel wil do fine. the notches shoud be 5-6mm for the wall tiles. This allows for spread when you press the tiles into place. Do not try to press them till they hit the wall behind, just enough to ensure that the glue has spread.
Rumple, sounds like a few bags of ardit is in order. Oh yeah and time
Adrien Mamet
www.mametconstructions.com.au
sounds fun
so i spread the adhesive on the tile then stick to the wall is the idea ?
i've been trying to spread it evenly on the wall then tile dry tile straight over and had to use alot of twisting and pushing to try get it to line up with next tile yes sometimes alot of adhesive comes out the side like a apple custard that has been squashed hehe...
i havent done floor tiling yet this is the first time i am trying tiling, i've watched numbers youtube vids but only so much seeing can do...
really messy job but i find it fun.. especially cutting the tile with wet saw, still waiting for those EBAY - Diamond holesaw drill bits , got 4 pack 15-22mm for 22 $ inc shipping.. bargin ? if it works that is.
so i spread the adhesive on the tile then stick to the wall is the idea ?
i've been trying to spread it evenly on the wall then tile dry tile straight over and had to use alot of twisting and pushing to try get it to line up with next tile
yes sometimes alot of adhesive comes out the side like a apple custard that has been squashed hehe...i havent done floor tiling yet this is the first time i am trying tiling, i've watched numbers youtube vids but only so much seeing can do...
really messy job but i find it fun.. especially cutting the tile with wet saw, still waiting for those EBAY - Diamond holesaw drill bits , got 4 pack 15-22mm for 22 $ inc shipping.. bargin ? if it works that is.
Your putting too much adhesive, it shouldn't come out the sides like that. You want to hold you trowl or spreader at about 45 deg to the wall this should give you lines of adhesive that are about square (if using 6mm trowl, the lines will be 6mm apart and about 5 mm high) then push your tile on you should end up with around 2-3mm of adhesive behind the tile, if your having to push it hard you doing it wrong espicially if they are small tiles. Your other option is to apply the glue to you tiles and then press them on the wall if they are just small and your having trouble getting the adhesive onto the wall.
For floor tiling you should be able to line up one edge of the tile then drop the other end gently, a little push to get the level right and thats it. The old italian that taught me how to tile said if you have glue anywhere other than under the tile or in your bucket your doing it wrong, meaning that if you have it all over you hands and the top of the tile your using too much adhesive. He watched me tile 200m2 in 5 days and I've never heard soo much swearing or been called a boof head that many time in my life but since then I've been able to tile like a pro, nothing like a experienced teacher to show you the way.
For floor tiling you should be able to line up one edge of the tile then drop the other end gently, a little push to get the level right and thats it. The old italian that taught me how to tile said if you have glue anywhere other than under the tile or in your bucket your doing it wrong, meaning that if you have it all over you hands and the top of the tile your using too much adhesive. He watched me tile 200m2 in 5 days and I've never heard soo much swearing or been called a boof head that many time in my life but since then I've been able to tile like a pro, nothing like a experienced teacher to show you the way.
here are some before and after pics...
this is the album.
http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm306/AETUDE/Kitchen reno/
BEFORE!
AFTER! waahhllaa
this is the album.
http://s299.photobucket.com/albums/mm306/AETUDE/Kitchen reno/
BEFORE!
AFTER! waahhllaa
cabinet over fridge
yes Atti,
you need to have an end panel on the other side of your fridge. This goes all he way up to the same height as the TOP of the fridge unit, and you screw into it.
BTW- i noticed in one of the photos you didn't scribe the plinth to the floor. You really should do this at the first stage of installation as in prevents vermin from nesting in your kitchen
Starting to take shae
good luck
Adrien Mamet
www.mametconstructions.com.au
yes Atti,
you need to have an end panel on the other side of your fridge. This goes all he way up to the same height as the TOP of the fridge unit, and you screw into it.
BTW- i noticed in one of the photos you didn't scribe the plinth to the floor. You really should do this at the first stage of installation as in prevents vermin from nesting in your kitchen
Starting to take shae
good luck
Adrien Mamet
www.mametconstructions.com.au
Scribe plinth
The plinth is also known as aladder or kick/kicker. It is the section that the cabinets sit on. Some joiners manufacter units complete with adjustable legs to do away with a plinth. I prefer the plinth system as it is much faster and you can get a far better result, but i am getting off subject here.
Anyway, to scribe your plinth you need to level the plinth first and get this as accurate as possible. You will find that you have a gap at one end and it should be touching the floor at the other end (Sometimes touches the floor in the middle and have gaps at eachend) Then you go to the bigger gap. This is your datum line. You scribe along the plinth, ie get a block and put your pencil on it so that it sits just above the gap. Run this block and pencil along the plinth following the natural curve of the foor. When you remove the exess timber from your plinth it will sit ver close to the floor negating any requirement for a bead.
This is the very basic instructions. there is a knack to it however it is difficult to explain on line
hope this helps you out somewhat
cheers
Adrien Mamet
www.mametconstructions.com.au
The plinth is also known as aladder or kick/kicker. It is the section that the cabinets sit on. Some joiners manufacter units complete with adjustable legs to do away with a plinth. I prefer the plinth system as it is much faster and you can get a far better result, but i am getting off subject here.
Anyway, to scribe your plinth you need to level the plinth first and get this as accurate as possible. You will find that you have a gap at one end and it should be touching the floor at the other end (Sometimes touches the floor in the middle and have gaps at eachend) Then you go to the bigger gap. This is your datum line. You scribe along the plinth, ie get a block and put your pencil on it so that it sits just above the gap. Run this block and pencil along the plinth following the natural curve of the foor. When you remove the exess timber from your plinth it will sit ver close to the floor negating any requirement for a bead.
This is the very basic instructions. there is a knack to it however it is difficult to explain on line
hope this helps you out somewhat
cheers
Adrien Mamet
www.mametconstructions.com.au
yes i've done just that, it looks like there is a gap because the corner of the room (behind) is sitting flat on floor but the front kinder bows so it has a gap very visible, rest assured the base is leveled before i put on cabinents + benchtop. i am just abit lazy to do the quarter round because i havent got access to nail gun at this moment. very good eyes for picking that up thanks..
any advice on how to mount this cupboard over the fridge ? hehe u like my unorthodox style of mounting it ?
i am just abit lazy to do the quarter round because i havent got access to nail gun at this moment. very good eyes for picking that up thanks..any advice on how to mount this cupboard over the fridge ? hehe u like my unorthodox style of mounting it ?
