Leaking Toilet

[Davidr]

Hi all,

I have a toilet that has just developed a small leak on the waste side. It is just where the bowl output goes through the collar and joins the pipe out through the wall (a small drip down from the collar).

It appears that the collar / pipe has the 'blue glue' rather than threaded.

Is this job likely to be a nasty fix or should I just phone the plumber? I've never installed a toilet before or done other than fix minor cistern problems.

Cheers,
David

 

[willair]

Davidr,
from a plumbing point of view, i would employ a plumber its not a clean/easy job..
good luck
willair..

 

[Jacque]

Hi David
If I were you, I'd be putting on my sweetest voice and ringing around a few plumbers to see if they can solve the problem over the phone. It may be something simple- like applying a layer of silicon.
If not, then shop around for cheapest callout and hrly rates, as it doesn't sound like a particularly difficult job.
My local plumber is lovely (and reasonably priced) but, alas, he's in Sydney

 

[Davidr]

Thanks guys. I just had another closer look. I didn't want to prod and poke too much as it is on the icky side. However, the collar is actually in two parts. The part glued onto the waste pipe. The output of the bowl sits inside this. There is a rubber gasket and the second part of the collar clips over this. The leak is through the gasket. So it seems to be a pretty simple replace it option. The problem will be getting the water drained below the S bend, and NOT flooding the floor.

A job for tomorrow I think....

 

[geoffw]

The problem will be getting the water drained below the S bend, and NOT flooding the floor.

Easy. Just eat LOTS of beans

 

[Jacque]

Easy. Just eat LOTS of beans

Oh dear, Geoff
Your ideas are SO left field!!!!!!

 

[Davidr]

Easy. Just eat LOTS of beans

Now to work out how to get a tight enough arse seal

 

[Petal]

From the description you have given it sounds as though it is the rubber seal inside the collar that is leaking.

Hi Davidr,

The collar is not glued or screwed on but it is pushed on with rubber seals, one to go around the pipe and the other to seal around the bowl output.

Sometimes pulling the seal off cleaning around it turning 180 degrees and pushing it back on will fix the problem, however if it doesn't, then you will need to replace the collar seal which means either removing the toilet bowel from the floor so that you can pull it forward or removing the pvc pipe from behind the toilet which unless you have the skills and equipment will require a plumber.

So hopefully the hint above will fix the problem, it is certainly worth having a shot at.

Regards
Petal

 

[Petal]

The problem will be getting the water drained below the S bend, and NOT flooding the floor.QUOTE]

The water from the S bend will not drain out from that pipe unless you remove the toilet and tilt it back so you should be ok there.

 

[Davidr]

The water from the S bend will not drain out from that pipe unless you remove the toilet and tilt it back so you should be ok there.

Thanks Petal. Yep, just checked the levels and can see that the S bend water should stay put - bar sloshing from rough handling.

However won't there be water in the PVC pipe end? It is horizontal for a little distnce before an elbow taking it down below floor level.

The rubber seal looks oldish and I will replace it tomorrow.

Cheers,
David

 

[handyandy]

Hi David

From what you are saying you have a 'P' connection from the pan.

Initially I couldn't understand how you were getting a leak from the rubber seal as when you have a connection straight into the floor there is no way that any liquid can accumulate (barring a blockage) to causes a leak.

If it is a 'P' connection and the rubber seal is leaking then you may not have to remove tha pan to fix the problem. The solution is in the connection to the bend before it goes into the floor. Cut the pipe there tand this then allows you to remove the rubber fitting and the pipe back to the place you cut it. Then buy a a new rubber seal and fit into the old fitting at the same time get yourself a rubber 'quick' which is just a rubber piece of pipe with stainless ring fasterteners each end and attach both ends around where you made the cut. Sometimes you have to shorten the pipe as the 'quick' does add some length.

If you could post a pic then I can be sure that the problem is as I envisage.

Cheers

 

[Petal]

However won't there be water in the PVC pipe end? It is horizontal for a little distnce before an elbow taking it down below floor level.

No if it is installed properly it should have a least a 1 degree down slope away from the toilet

hope this helps

Petal

(ps this is hubbys expertise not mine!!)

 

[Davidr]

This is with the collar on:

And with the collar pulled back to expose the rubber seal:

No if it is installed properly it should have a least a 1 degree down slope

This is the $64000 question

Cheers,
David

 

[handyandy]

Hi David

Yep thats a 'p' connection. See the back of the tiolet makes a 'p' rather than a 's' as in going to the floor.

OK, theres not much to play with at the back. In fact it looks like its just the coller fitting at the back and then the wall. So not a lot of oppurtunity to do what I indicated previously.

The question is still why there is any leak as the collar really only blocks the smell rather than intended to seal water.

What is on the other side of the wall? Is it outside? If it is outside then the job can b tackled by cutting the pipe in the first straight section and then takeing all piping out back to the toilet and refitting all pipes. The final conection is still a quick sleeve except now it would be outside, also takes up any misalignment that you may have between the new and old pipe work.

The only other alternative is to take out the pan. Most times these break depending on how well they are cemented in. If you break the pan then these are fairly exe to replace due to it being a 'p' pan.

Even if you get a plumber in the replacement of pipe at the back could still work out more economical as it takes a fair bit of time to set a pan.

Cheers

 

[Davidr]

OK, theres not much to play with at the back. In fact it looks like its just the coller fitting at the back and then the wall. So not a lot of oppurtunity to do what I indicated previously.

There is 50 mm of PVC pipe between collar and wall.

The question is still why there is any leak as the collar really only blocks the smell rather than intended to seal water.

I don't know, tho a new dribble occurs when it is flushed (and no it is not coming from higher up eg cistern or inlet pipe). Definitely from the bottom of the black rubber ie the top and sides of the rubber are dry.

What is on the other side of the wall? Is it outside?

Nope internal wall.

The only other alternative is to take out the pan. Most times these break depending on how well they are cemented in.

I'll remove the screws in the bottom of the pan to see how secure it is.

Even if you get a plumber in the replacement of pipe at the back could still work out more economical as it takes a fair bit of time to set a pan.

Bugger!!

 

[Davidr]

Thanks to those who replied.

It ended up being quite an easy job. The bowl was held in with only scews (and a bit of grout). Bunnings had the rubber seal for $6.95. Simply had to slide it back, take the old one off, put the new one on and slide the bowl back in. QED

Cheers,
David.