Negotiating price on 2nd hand car at car yard

[wobbycarly]

I don't have my heart set on anything in particular, other than a 5-door hatch, preferably manual. I thought that was fairly broad requirements... turns out it's not so easy.

Re: Euro vs Asian. What about something like this Viva? Says it's Korean?

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/d...4680283 1622 56 1247&vertical=Car&distance=25

$8k might see it done? But if it's done 96539km, like the ad says, the 100k km mark is likely on the horizon, no?

Although I've seen some of these ads where the odo reading on the ad was 120 or so, and the photo of the odo showed 180k!

I wish I had more an interest... I just want something I can drive to work in fairly cheaply!

 

[Bird Dog]

I don't have my heart set on anything in particular, other than a 5-door hatch, preferably manual. I thought that was fairly broad requirements... turns out it's not so easy.

Re: Euro vs Asian. What about something like this Viva? Says it's Korean?

http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/d...4680283 1622 56 1247&vertical=Car&distance=25

$8k might see it done? But if it's done 96539km, like the ad says, the 100k km mark is likely on the horizon, no?

Although I've seen some of these ads where the odo reading on the ad was 120 or so, and the photo of the odo showed 180k!

I wish I had more an interest... I just want something I can drive to work in fairly cheaply!

Yes you're right, car hunting should be easy but when you're purchasing second hand 5+ year old vehicles on a limited budget, it pays to invest a little time as you could just be buying someone elses problems.
The Viva is actually a Deawoo (GM own Deawoo and outsource a lot of their prodution to the korean manufacturer) and it can have poor resale. I guess you would best describe is as "unremarkable"

I know you wanted a hatch but this isnt' too bad.
http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mazda-6-2005-13489493?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=12&page=2&eapi=2&__N=1216+1622+1246+1247+1252+1282+4294965340+903&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Mileage:Min,100000|Price:7500,10000~0.5&sort=default

or http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/mazda-3-2004-13298467?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=16&page=2&eapi=2&__N=1216+1622+1246+1247+1252+1282+4294965340+903&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Mileage:Min,100000|Price:7500,10000~0.5&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/toyota-corolla-2005-12450843?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=1&eapi=2&__N=1216+1622+1246+1247+1252+1282+4294962861+4294962707+903&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Mileage:Min,100000|Year:2003,Max|Price:7500,10000~0.5&sort=default

 

[Spades]

I'd buy second hand ebad,carnales,tradong bost etc...Go by red book estimates and try to get it cheaper than the estimate.We have a fleet of toyota yaris @ work and are great all round,worth looking at.
Cheers Spades.

 

[wobbycarly]

Yes you're right, car hunting should be easy but when you're purchasing second hand 5+ year old vehicles on a limited budget, it pays to invest a little time as you could just be buying someone elses problems.

And I guess a caryard is not immune from that either, but I was perhaps naively expecting a better quality car that way.

The Viva is actually a Deawoo (GM own Deawoo and outsource a lot of their prodution to the korean manufacturer) and it can have poor resale. I guess you would best describe is as "unremarkable"

I know you wanted a hatch but this isnt' too bad.
http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/mazda-6-2005-13489493?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=12&page=2&eapi=2&__N=1216+1622+1246+1247+1252+1282+4294965340+903&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Mileage:Min,100000|Price:7500,10000~0.5&sort=default

or http://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/mazda-3-2004-13298467?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=16&page=2&eapi=2&__N=1216+1622+1246+1247+1252+1282+4294965340+903&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Mileage:Min,100000|Price:7500,10000~0.5&sort=default

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/toyota-corolla-2005-12450843?base=1216&vertical=Car&cr=1&eapi=2&__N=1216+1622+1246+1247+1252+1282+4294962861+4294962707+903&num=15&silo=Stock&Range=Mileage:Min,100000|Year:2003,Max|Price:7500,10000~0.5&sort=default

Dunno how their distance filter works, but last time I checked, Pearcedale, Cobram and Carnegie were more than 10km from Geelong!

Thanks for your help. Perhaps I should broaden my scope... although I think I should still still to trying to get what I want.

 

[BayView]

Most 4 cylinder cars have the timing belt replaced every 100,000km or so.

Beware of the costs of replacing brakes in European cars also. I've been there, and it's not pretty.

Exactly right, and taking European cars to indepent workshops (like mine) won't have stock of many of the parts such as fuel filters, some air filters and even oil filters.

These are often order-in items, but can be done same day.

Tyres are often slightly odd sized, and usually require higher load and speed ratings (for Autobahn use I suppose) which will make the price go up.

For reference; Astras are often 80,000km's for T/Belts but some of the newer ones are 60,000km's.

Most Hyundais are 100 or 80,000km's

Golfs are good cars actually; we do a few here.

 

[wobbycarly]

OK, so let's say I find a car that I like, and get it tested (somehow!) and it passes.

What sort of negotiating on price can take place in a car yard? What sweetens the deal for them? Cash?

I can understand the negotiating techniques with individuals a bit easier.

 

[Ideo]

Aim for 10% minimum.

You will stay pay 20% too much, but at least you will feel better about it.

My last car was listed for $16,000 (Audi S3, 2002 model, highish kms) and I got $14,800 for it to give you an idea of realistic movement.

 

[womble66]

I think the 2nd hand car sales market is depressed worse than the current house sales market due to the poor state of consumer spending and the price cutting being applied to the new car market.

Deffinately a buyers market with so many car being listed for private sale with the reason as "just upgraded" or bought a "new car" which indicated the trade-ins being offered are also way below owners expectations therefore they list them private trying to get a better resale value.

For me I would at least offer 20% on what anyone is asking and just wait until you find someone willing.

I bought my last car privately from near Geelong (I live near Sydney) and was list for about $37K when I first saw it then about a month latter I paid $31 cash just be offering $30K and waiting.

You are in a strong position.

Also see if you can find a Corolla hatch manual as these are great cars and a >2005/6 should be got for <$10 and <100K km with the bonus being cheap and relaible to run and no timing belt since the 2004 model as they use chains. Got the wife an auto one for $9.5K and hasn't missed a beat.

Bought my wife a

 

[wobbycarly]

Aim for 10% minimum.

You will stay pay 20% too much, but at least you will feel better about it.

My last car was listed for $16,000 (Audi S3, 2002 model, highish kms) and I got $14,800 for it to give you an idea of realistic movement.

Cool. Good starting point. Thanks.

 

[BMan]

LOL - I've already been in touch with Mick. He has a 2012 Spark with <7,000k on it for <$12k. No doubt this will have the balance of the new car warranty still on it. That seems a REALLY good deal compared to this local one.

dont forget that a new barina spark is only 14k drive away
so depending on how much less that 12k it is its not really a good deal
how long till rego runs out?
tyres are probably about 1/4 or more worn
service is 3/4 due
no choice of colour
all those could add up to a grand or so and your a grand off of new... with a car thats used

im interested in the barina sparks for the price they are new it makes me wonder how much they will hold there value

 

[wobbycarly]

dont forget that a new barina spark is only 14k drive away
so depending on how much less that 12k it is its not really a good deal
how long till rego runs out?
tyres are probably about 1/4 or more worn
service is 3/4 due
no choice of colour
all those could add up to a grand or so and your a grand off of new... with a car thats used

im interested in the barina sparks for the price they are new it makes me wonder how much they will hold there value

Yeah, at the time, I didn't realise the comparison with the new price. Plus the Spark is a bit small.

 

[VYBerlinaV8]

im interested in the barina sparks for the price they are new it makes me wonder how much they will hold there value

This is one of the reasons I bought one. When you pay $14k drive away just how much value can it really lose?

11 years ago I bought a Daewoo Matiz new, drive away for $13k. Got a 5 year warranty and 3 years free servicing included at that price. Flogged it for 5 and a half years and got $4100 for trade in on another car. So it lost $8900 in 5 and a half years, or 1600 bucks a year.

With a car like that you get new car warranty, you know whether you've looked after it, and your potential loss of value is actually pretty small.

That said, they are quite small, and if you want to carry large kids and/or other adults or cargo, they may not suit.

 

[cu@thetop]

Go to an auction house. Choose your car. Bid on it. Unsure how much? Let the dealers in the crowd fight it out and make one bid when they have stopped. (at least you will know you are not to far over that way).

Fator into your sums that the car will probably need 1-2k repairs to get it up to par. Arrange for a towie to take it to your trusted mechanic to get a roadworthy and away you go!

Personally at the $10k price range I would buy a new (or demo) Hyundai or even the new cheapie VW to get the new car warranty.

 

[wobbycarly]

Go to an auction house. Choose your car. Bid on it. Unsure how much? Let the dealers in the crowd fight it out and make one bid when they have stopped. (at least you will know you are not to far over that way).

This is not my thing at all! And the closest one I know about is nearly an hour away - not sure how I'd get time off work to go visit during the week.

Fator into your sums that the car will probably need 1-2k repairs to get it up to par. Arrange for a towie to take it to your trusted mechanic to get a roadworthy and away you go!

Personally at the $10k price range I would buy a new (or demo) Hyundai or even the new cheapie VW to get the new car warranty.

Don't have one of these. With a work car, it just goes to the dealer every time it needs a service and gets plonked on the fleet card.

 

[Ausprop]

Go to an auction house. Choose your car. Bid on it. Unsure how much? Let the dealers in the crowd fight it out and make one bid when they have stopped. (at least you will know you are not to far over that way).

Fator into your sums that the car will probably need 1-2k repairs to get it up to par. Arrange for a towie to take it to your trusted mechanic to get a roadworthy and away you go!

Personally at the $10k price range I would buy a new (or demo) Hyundai or even the new cheapie VW to get the new car warranty.

I did the motor dealers course and it was interesting to hear the story of how the dealers manipulate these auctions. I can't real how now but there is soemthing that tells you if the car is a dealer car and they stick their dud stock in there and bid on their own vehicles

 

[grantwhit]

Might get you a slap in the head too.

If it was your car, would you take the $5K?

Thought not.

I probably wouldn't, but someone else might...same as property...desperate vendors, need cash quick, going o/s in a week and need it gone.

 

[outbackjack]

I would ask around your friends and see if you know anyone with some mechanical nouse.

Then pick out 2 or 3 cars and go with said friend.

I wouldnt limit yourself to your local area. Take a drive on the weekend.

I am in the middle of the NT and took the gamble on a car from Melbourne. I didnt get it checked out, however did contact the Ford dealer where it had been serviced.

Owner wanted 16k, I offered him 12k, due to the fact it would cost me 1600 dollars to get it here, Plus rego etc.

He counter offered 12500 and the deal was done.


At the end of the day, I do some research, get some idea on what the car is worth in real terms(not redbook). Then offer what your comfortable with.

I always allow at least 1k on every car I buy for repairs. Buying a 2nd hand car, there will always been something wrong. Sometimes it has to be fixed or other times its just cosmetic etc.

Always plan to get a major service done( Oil, Filters, plugs etc etc), regardless if its been done before. You will then have piece of mind and during the service a good mechanic should pick up any other faults