Bathroom reno questions
- Thread starter mumbai
- Start date
Its not so much a set time rather well dried and cured - this is based on water based product.
A 2 pack product would be quicker to cure to a workable finish as it a chemical reaction.
Generally the products are all water based.
With the water based product in the current warmth it should have a good cured surface within a day or two. I have used this product in winter and it wasn't fully cured after a week. We had to bring heaters in to finally get it to cure.
One time when we first started renovating concrete walled unit we pulled a tiles shower recess apart and found that the water proofing was still wet. I suspect that in this case they tiled to soon after the water proofing and then never fixed the actual leak which was in the low pressure pipe between the taps and the shower head. As a result it would have pretty well leaked again as soon as the started using it and the leak kept the water proofing wet the whole time until we pulled it apart again. This water proofing was only on the ground and 1 row of tiles up.
With you water proofing it will only be the walls around the top of the bath and the floor and a little up the walls around the room so this amount with the warmth of summer should not be a worry.
Cheers
Great Thread!
For my education, ive avoided moving vanities etc in the past because I assumed (did I assume right?) that to move a pipe from right to left in this case is going to be extremely expensive and would require tearing the walls down and buying new expensive copper pipes
In the past ive left pipes where they are and worked around them as best as I can.
Also, what is teh bath frame made out of ? or how is it made,
I recently assumed the bath would simply slide out and we could put a new one in, however, it was pretty attached to the frame so we ended up just spraying the tub
Oh, I did everything DIY
For my education, ive avoided moving vanities etc in the past because I assumed (did I assume right?) that to move a pipe from right to left in this case is going to be extremely expensive and would require tearing the walls down and buying new expensive copper pipes
In the past ive left pipes where they are and worked around them as best as I can.
Also, what is teh bath frame made out of ? or how is it made,
I recently assumed the bath would simply slide out and we could put a new one in, however, it was pretty attached to the frame so we ended up just spraying the tub
Oh, I did everything DIY
The tradesmen did not charge for that (well technically they did).
I wouldn't know
May be some plasterboard? and then waterproof it.
Looking good! Those floor tiles are a vast improvement.
Why is there a tap so high up on the wall with the window?
I would have assumed that this is the cistern tap but I think it's to high.
Also I would have moved the toilet to be on the other wall so toilet is facing out from between end of bath and wall. (not facing bath). If you are placing toilet this way then tap is definitely in wrong place.
Cheers
I would have assumed that this is the cistern tap but I think it's to high.
Also I would have moved the toilet to be on the other wall so toilet is facing out from between end of bath and wall. (not facing bath). If you are placing toilet this way then tap is definitely in wrong place.
Cheers
Yes, the toilet will be between wall and bath. The tap was with the previous setup. I am not changing the plumbing much and will change the tap to a smaller one. Can't change the height now
Ok, im officiially confused, wouldnt moving the actual pipes even 10cm involve, tearing out the wall, buying custom copper pipes, installing it, and then re walling it?
obviously im not talking about changing tap heads or similar, just like how in this situation the vanity piping has moved from the back wall to the left wall and toilet piping has gone from the back wall to the right wall
obviously im not talking about changing tap heads or similar, just like how in this situation the vanity piping has moved from the back wall to the left wall and toilet piping has gone from the back wall to the right wall
Yes, when I was quoted about the job, I told them there won't be much moving involved with plumbing. They did the vanity, I convinced them to change the entire bath/shower plumbing. Though toilet one is just a small one, they asked for more, which I cannot afford with all these expenses. I know, sounds ridiculous but can't help.
I also got them to fix my leaking laundry and basin at no extra cost. Those were better deal for me than a tap sticking on a different wall, which still serves the purpose.
The bathroom reno has been completed now. I will post the completed pictures soon. I realised that since I am using Bath-shower combo, I need a shower curtain or a bath screen. The bathroom door opens towards to the bath and I feel that a glass screen may be bit risky with tenants.
The shower curtain needs to rest on a corner curtain road.
Will curtain look good in a new bathroom?? If yes, where can I get a corner/L shape curtain rod and how easy are they to install?
The shower curtain needs to rest on a corner curtain road.
Will curtain look good in a new bathroom?? If yes, where can I get a corner/L shape curtain rod and how easy are they to install?
bathroom
Hey
Just saw this post and thought Id contribute. May be too late. For tiles try Royal Tiles at Auburn, Bunnings for taps etc and Renovation D for other fixtures. Theres a place on Canetrbury Rd Campsie called I think Building Bathroom Centre or something like that ( close to Canterbury Hospital) which is good for taps etc. Best advice I was given was to make sure the tiler and waterproofer are the same person so in case of any issues one doesnt blame the other etc. Good luck. Looking forward to seeing the final product.
cheers
JJ
Hey
Just saw this post and thought Id contribute. May be too late. For tiles try Royal Tiles at Auburn, Bunnings for taps etc and Renovation D for other fixtures. Theres a place on Canetrbury Rd Campsie called I think Building Bathroom Centre or something like that ( close to Canterbury Hospital) which is good for taps etc. Best advice I was given was to make sure the tiler and waterproofer are the same person so in case of any issues one doesnt blame the other etc. Good luck. Looking forward to seeing the final product.
cheers
JJ
It's just a bit late
I used TFO for tiles and Reece for taps and fittings. I always though Reece would be expensive than Bunnings. But they were surprisingly cheap. They have experienced guys answering your questions and helping with making decisions.
I used the same person as a tiler and waterproofer. I hope there are no issues.
I used TFO for tiles and Reece for taps and fittings. I always though Reece would be expensive than Bunnings. But they were surprisingly cheap. They have experienced guys answering your questions and helping with making decisions.
I used the same person as a tiler and waterproofer. I hope there are no issues.
Can someone suggest on the above?
How close does the door go to the bath? If you put a stopper on the side of the bath you could get one of these screens
http://www.bunnings.com.au/products...-silver-m2_P5137105.aspx?search=shower&page=7
or
http://www.bunnings.com.au/products...-silver-m3_P5136840.aspx?search=shower&page=8
But yes I think a shower curtain will be fine - get something in a complementary colour - perhaps even something a bit fun. You could go straight to the end wall or L shaped.
I think most bathroom places will have them - no idea how easy sorry.
any suggestions before I decide on one??
If you install a fixed screen, part way down the bath, that would only work if the taps can be reached. Otherwise, how does one turn on the hot water and adjust it before stepping into the bath to take a shower?
If you do a hinged screen, where would it swing, and what "could" it hit if it was opened carelessly?
Perhaps you could have a fixed section and a small hinged section so that the tenants can reach the taps without getting burned and the hinged piece is small enough to hinge inwards (or outwards) without hitting anything?
If you do a hinged screen, where would it swing, and what "could" it hit if it was opened carelessly?
Perhaps you could have a fixed section and a small hinged section so that the tenants can reach the taps without getting burned and the hinged piece is small enough to hinge inwards (or outwards) without hitting anything?
Yes, I am planning to install a part screen. The tap is on the long side and the actual shower (via shower rail) on the short side. The tap will be accessible to them easily. The hinged door could be an issue as the bathroom door opens towards the bath. So, I plan to install a fixed one.
I got some quotes yesterday and it is expensive. Will look into installing a curtain rod.
Though, I did not find any (in L shape) to cover the bath !
I got some quotes yesterday and it is expensive
. Will look into installing a curtain rod. Though, I did not find any (in L shape) to cover the bath !
