Car Servicing Advice please
- Thread starter Queen Bee
- Start date
Gees, I didn't think it funny.
Apparently I need a new clutch, new fuel injectors, spark plugs and brakes.
The kicker is that our other car has to go in tomorrow. I already know it needs 4 tyres, AND daughter's car has to go in as well for a new radiator.
Seriously not happy.
rip off mechanics
Hi Queen bee,
those prices are all pretty expensive.
I would get a second opinion (on the condition)of the front bushes from a front end specialist.
actually log book servicing is a bit of a joke .especially at a dealership.Quite often they get the 1st and 2nd year apprentices to just do the stuff listed
in the book for that amount of kms.The problem is everyone drives in different fashion and in different conditions,so the servicing needs to be
carried according to the particular vehicle and circumstances rather than the kms that happen to be on the clock.
For a simple example on the commodore some sevices they dont even recommend to check the air filter and i have seen them absolutely blocked at these intervals.
Hi Queen bee,
those prices are all pretty expensive.
I would get a second opinion (on the condition)of the front bushes from a front end specialist.
actually log book servicing is a bit of a joke .especially at a dealership.Quite often they get the 1st and 2nd year apprentices to just do the stuff listed
in the book for that amount of kms.The problem is everyone drives in different fashion and in different conditions,so the servicing needs to be
carried according to the particular vehicle and circumstances rather than the kms that happen to be on the clock.
For a simple example on the commodore some sevices they dont even recommend to check the air filter and i have seen them absolutely blocked at these intervals.
Sorry, but I don't beleive that for a second. In my experience Holden mechanics have been puppets on a computer system. The problem can't possibly exist unless it's been documented on the system as being a known problem. My visits to Holden have been akin to watching Little Britain on telly, "computer says noooo".
RC
I agree with that.
I have a VE SS and the trouble I’ve had with the battery is unbelievable.
I have read recently that they have fixed this problem.
That being said, the mechanic across the road my work worked out the problem before my holden dealer.
Just got a bigger & more powerful battery.
I now take my car to him for the services now. Every 6 months , couldn’t be happier.
RC, you're entitled to your opinion... But in no way did I state that ALL Holden dealers/mechanics are experts at what they do, I said that MY mechanics are... I have my foreman who has consistently won awards across the entire state and my most experienced mechanic who has achieved the same
I will agree with you that a few dealers give the rest a bad name, but hopefuly not mine
RC, you're entitled to your opinion... But in no way did I state that ALL Holden dealers/mechanics are experts at what they do, I said that MY mechanics are... I have my foreman who has consistently won awards across the entire state and my most experienced mechanic who has achieved the same
I will agree with you that a few dealers give the rest a bad name, but hopefuly not mine
Hi Hados,
How did you guys treat the VE problems with the battery going flat all the time.
Hi mate,
As you will know, there has been COUNTLESS updates on the VE with the battery issues... The thing with these batteries is that if they are discharged fully they will NOT charge back over around 80% with normal driving, they need to be charged with a specific charger to bring them back up to the proper levels.
We've had quite a few updates along the way and to be honest, if your car is still inside warranty it would be best if you booked it in for a 'flat battery diagnosis' and got all of the known issues fixed in one hit...
As you will know, there has been COUNTLESS updates on the VE with the battery issues... The thing with these batteries is that if they are discharged fully they will NOT charge back over around 80% with normal driving, they need to be charged with a specific charger to bring them back up to the proper levels.
We've had quite a few updates along the way and to be honest, if your car is still inside warranty it would be best if you booked it in for a 'flat battery diagnosis' and got all of the known issues fixed in one hit...
Hados, Congratulations on "coming out" as a dealership service manager. I certainly won't give you a hard time.
But I have always had misgivings about "dealer services" and generally avoid them by buying an older Honda. I have bought new commercials though and with the last couple of Mitsi's the dealer has never seen them after delivery. I have not had warranty issues so just change the oil and do little else. The carby is shot (don't laugh, the Commodore had push-rods until recently) but it is way out of warranty by now anyway.
Is it "normal" for auto gearboxes to die @ around 150k? The guy who did mine says so, unless you are a sticker for replacing oil even more often than the recommendations.
But I have always had misgivings about "dealer services" and generally avoid them by buying an older Honda. I have bought new commercials though and with the last couple of Mitsi's the dealer has never seen them after delivery. I have not had warranty issues so just change the oil and do little else. The carby is shot (don't laugh, the Commodore had push-rods until recently) but it is way out of warranty by now anyway.
Is it "normal" for auto gearboxes to die @ around 150k? The guy who did mine says so, unless you are a sticker for replacing oil even more often than the recommendations.
The only automatic gearboxes we see fail are of the VR-VS commodore variety, being 15+ years old and well into the kms (200,000-250,000kms) and usually driven by the 'spirited' drivers
We are only a relatively small dealership though in a rural community, so don't see a great deal of passenger vehicles. LCRV's are our bread and butter
We are only a relatively small dealership though in a rural community, so don't see a great deal of passenger vehicles. LCRV's are our bread and butter
mmm
isn't any battery like that apart from Optima, Odyssey and few other aftermarket batteries? doesn't take a mechanic to figure that out...
But so many times ..
its only 'the obvious' AfTeR somebody says it
I sense a hint of sarcasm there...
BUT, most people do not know this and wonder why they CONTINUE to have flat batteries after it discharges the first time. I wasn't talking about the 'battery' as such, was more about the Commodore issues with the battery discharging constantly
Hi Queen Bee
I work in the automotive industry as a independent repairer.
In my opinion all the things you wrote are common for your model commodore, and the prices are resonable as well.
Wiper blades wear out even if you don't use them due to the sun causing the rubber to deteriorate.
Tyres usually last around 40 000km or more providing the wheel alignment is correct and you keep pressures according to specifications stated for your vehicle. Also rotate the tyres every 5000km if you do alot of city driving especially. Its not unusual for tyres to wear out as little as 20 000km if the above is not correct.
Buying tyres are like buying shoes, prices reflect on brand, comfort and material.
As for tyre prices, it all depends on size, brand and rubber compound.
there are alot of cheap import tyres on the market, but you may be comprimising your safety and comfort factor.
Best is to get a well know brand tyre, they have alot more reserch and development for their products, but of corse if you can only afford cheaper tyres, they are better then bald tyres.
Brake fluid flush should be carried out every 2years regardless of mileage.
Again its a saftey factor.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs moisture.
Moisture (water) in the brake fluid decreases the boiling point of the brake fluid and also causes corrosion in the brake hydraulic system.
To slow down a vehicle of about 2ton there is alot of friction created by the braking system of your car which is heat, the heat transfers from the brake calipers to the brake fluid, the lower the boiling point of the brake fluid the quicker it will boil, when water boils it turns into a vapor,a gas which compresses that is when you get a spongy brake peddle or loose the pressure of your brakes alltogether.
Dot 4 brake fluid has a dry boiling point of aprrox 350 degrees celcius.
the more moisture in the fluid the lower the boiling point. anything 3% moisture level or over needs replacing.
Caster rod bushes are a constant wear item. Every time you brake, accelerate or turn a corner the suspension puts pressure on the bushes
Its not unusual to replace caster rod/Radius rod, control arm inner bushes from as low as
60 000km. Nolothane bushes will give you longer wear and better road feel.
As Hados mensioned tightens everything up good.
but may compramise comfort marginally, due to being a stiffer bush.
Power steering rack weaping is also common as well having done 90 000km.
Be glad the pump is not leaking as well.
They usually leak around the rack end seals and pinion seals.
your technician would need to assess how badly its leaking, whether there are just oil stains around or actual oil drips to whether it needs to be replaced.
It may be a hazard to other road users, think of the poor guy following behind you on his motor bike running over your power steering oil.
All the items listed requires a wheel alignment after repaires have been completed, except for the brake fluid flush so it may be a good idea to get the rack and bushes done before the tyres and wheel alignment so you only need 1 wheel alignment.
All the items you listed are just normal wear and tear.
All prices are resonable.
I think your technician is doing the right thing by telling you what he has found while servicing your vehicle.
For example if you go to a doctor for a body check and your doctor spots a couple of unsual spots on your arm you should be warned to get it checked or removed, If he says nothing then he is doing the wrong thing as a professional. the same with your technician if he spots somthing unusual you should be notified whether you do anything about it is your own choice.
The only thing he should of done further is to take a bit more time to explain to you why you need the repairs and may be show you photos of previous repaires so you understand a bit better. I know in our own workshop we take photos of the repairs needed, repairs in progress and finished product. so customers know what we have done, how we repair it and why.
His comment of the car is in amazing condition could be very true dispite theses few minor service item.
He may be pointing to paint work, interior trim service history etc.
There are thousands of components that make up your vehicle how you look after them will determine its general overall condition.
We get cars that are traded in after 3 years, especially problematic and tempermental car like BMW and Mercedes. and we are forced to say to the dealership some times, just whole sale the cars to Auction because there are just too many things that may and will go wrong due to the lack of servicing and generally not looked after.
Hope this has help you.
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Hados I agree with you, any repairer is as good as their team, their teams knowledge and their teams willingness to learn, providing the establishment is willing to spend the money on further egducation, equipment and data, including dealerships.
We do repairs, services and vehicle inspections before sales for well known used car dealerships, these dealerships and their workshops are not connected and they do not have to take the car back if they are out of warranty, we do inspections and service the vehicles before it is on sold.
And it is not unusual to see cars that have been serviced by the factory technicians less then 12months before it comes to us for an inspection. but on inspection we find the door hinges, boot hinges etc are not lubricated and are stiff that only the drivers door opens properly or the wheels are stuck on the hub so severely due to the lack of removal of the wheels to do brake inspections and rotation and balance etc. Its not much but small thing keep the car more enjoyable to drive and components last longer.
And I'm talking about Mercedes and BMWs that has a basic service cost of over $500.
That is not to say All dealerships are alike.
Some take pride in their work and are professional at what they do.
Just my 2 bob.
Top post BBC. I got out of the industry a long time ago but know where you come from.
As a Nth Qld resident I must add that oil dropping onto the road eventually finds it's way into the waterways and in our case, The Reef. Have you (a general "you") noticed the change in colour of the road just after a bump? That shows the amount of oil dripping from cars.
I wonder how many "greens" drive leaky old cars?
As a Nth Qld resident I must add that oil dropping onto the road eventually finds it's way into the waterways and in our case, The Reef. Have you (a general "you") noticed the change in colour of the road just after a bump? That shows the amount of oil dripping from cars.
I wonder how many "greens" drive leaky old cars?
We do service book services all the time. They are not cheap. The reason is because of all the things on the book's list you need to do.
And, we don't simply stamp people's books with any old service. They want us to - but we won't do it, because if something happens to their car, and we've signed off on doing something when we didn't actually do it - we are liable.
A lot of the log book service is simply inspecting and reporting (which still chews up time).
We do this as well, and write the items on the invoice for the customer's attention. They don't necessarily need to get it all done that day unless it is really serious - like; no brakes - but it is good to make them aware of things.
The list you were given won't effect the stamping of the book.
This is a very good point SF.
Two reasons; as you say - the dealership services are a very big money churner for them, and dare I say it - the emphasis is on the volume, not the quality. A good reason to go the local guy you know and trust.
The number of people that come to us after paying $500 for a dealer service that we would have done for around $300 (and less) is all too common.
The second reason is the financial one. Buying new as we all know is a financial mistake. I've done it, but now know better, and never will again. I will still buy second hand and lease - even as a business owner.
Why?
Because you are paying the maximum price of the (new) car. As soon as it goes out of the yard it is worth up to a 3rd less. You have just overpaid by several thousands of dollars. Could be in the tens of thousands if you are business owner who thinks it's a smart way to write off tax by buying the brand new Beemer or Merc. Sorry; soapboxing.
The smarter thing to do is wait and buy the one or two year old version - which has depreciated, but is still basically a "new" car.
Got my eye on a two year old convertible Audi.
In our workshop this has no relevance.
same with ours
what i found is that
yes they do charge a woman more
and come up with a bunch of added expenses all the time so that what should cost 200 suddenly is 660
i learnt to tell them
'only do the very basic service''
in order fo rme to keep the warranttee with them
only to find out at the end of the warrantee time that they say, oh read the original warrantee hmmm no no no no no none of the problems or defects are covered under the warrantee.
so i learnt its hardly worth taking it there
i told them clearly to ask me before doing anythign extra otherwise i found i
w as forever being charged 500+ being told how it needed this and that and this and that
i would then call my local trusthworthy mechanic who would tell me a price and often they would match it to get the work, or if not i knew where to take it to.
a friend shopped around for some work he needed and found great work done for him substantially cheaper so tahts a choice too.
its always worth getting hits re car repairs.
yes they do charge a woman more
and come up with a bunch of added expenses all the time so that what should cost 200 suddenly is 660
i learnt to tell them
'only do the very basic service''
in order fo rme to keep the warranttee with them
only to find out at the end of the warrantee time that they say, oh read the original warrantee hmmm no no no no no none of the problems or defects are covered under the warrantee.
so i learnt its hardly worth taking it there
i told them clearly to ask me before doing anythign extra otherwise i found i
w as forever being charged 500+ being told how it needed this and that and this and that
i would then call my local trusthworthy mechanic who would tell me a price and often they would match it to get the work, or if not i knew where to take it to.
a friend shopped around for some work he needed and found great work done for him substantially cheaper so tahts a choice too.
its always worth getting hits re car repairs.
