Car upgrade will set me back 3 years

1. Give the cleaning lady the lemonade
2. Do a hp on a two year old gets with a 4k residual over 5 years.
It will cost you 30 bucks a week if you gave the cleaning the lemonade and sars
 
1. Give the cleaning lady the lemonade
2. Do a hp on a two year old gets with a 4k residual over 5 years.
It will cost you 30 bucks a week if you gave the cleaning the lemonade and sars

That sounds good but I dunno what it means... something about finance and bribing a cleaning lady :confused:
 
..... I found the below article an interesting read.

http://www.barefootinvestor.com/free-cars-buying-plan/

I had to laugh when I read that... buying a 1 yr old 40K car for 15K... just a little too much optimism IMHO. 25K maybe, but not 15K unless it has been utterly abused or has very excessive mileage. OK, so even with the $10k from the 2005 car, what about, change over costs, reality of further depreciation on '05 car, the fact that it is not the same as a '10 car.....

I have something else worth consideration... It's called LCC (life cycle cost). This concept, applied across many industries, is used for large fleets and is very useful for the private consumer. Personally, I have had experience in the management of a ~4000+ fleet, so perhaps I am not totally speaking out of my rear end.

1st point. Comparing a new car to a used car is not comparing apples with apples.

2nd point. The LCC is useful to determine the cost differential from differing options, like new vs used. It includes all purchase, operating and disposal costs for each option which can be reduced to $/km.

3rd point. When using a LCC comparison, you need to be mindful of consistency. Ie. A new car, fully insured, financed & dealer serviced DOES NOT compare to a used car, 3rd party insured, paid cash & otherwise serviced. This is not a COMPARABLE situation. However, all other variables being equal, New vs Used, can be...but it still isn't really apples & apples.

My point? First establish some ground rules. (Criteria) Ie. Upfront expense (purchase cost), annual Kms, type of insurance sought (ie. comprehensive) manner of servicing & maintenance (ie. dealer, local workshop, self)

Once you have that sorted, you can more aptly determine the pros/cons of each purchase by being consistent and confined to YOUR requirements.
Of course, spending 10k on a used vehicle is cheaper than 25K on a new one (by 15K upfront) BUT what is the real difference over say, an estimated 5 yr ownership cycle? What are the running costs, maintenance cost estimates, relative reliability of each, depreciation etc...

Only now, will you be able to make some sense of the numbers and then attribute a VALUE to each of your original criteria to enable a fair comparison. Ie. Reliability may be important if your vehicle helps generate income, so you might be prepared to pay a little more for that. Or, weekly running costs may be more of an issue, so you might rate that higher.

Personally, I have bought New and Used. New is not necessarily a bad choice, if you can afford it, as it comes with piece of mind. (proper warranty) Certified used is another good alternative. My latest purchase was used, because I wanted to stay within a certain budget, pay cash, yet have something fairly reliable. 11k can buy something decent (where I live anyway):
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Final point. Comparing New / Used is not easy, and not really selecting from the same apple cart. If the final straw is $, then do a LCC comparison & will see $/km. Keep on looking at newer used cars until you hit your $/km threshold. Hint: NRMA has done most of this work for you if you look for it.

Happy car buying :D
 
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I only ever buy new cars, not only because of the peace of mind, but from the fact if you buy below market value you can sell them within 12 months and not loose too much value. - Contray to the general belief.

Why not look at a kia rio? you can buy manual drive away for $12,990 and is good size, 5 door, station wagon feel with power windows and cd.

If you can get 1500 or 2k for your excel this is like a 11,000 upgrade.

Not sure if this kills your investing or not...
 
I have a Hyundai Getz '05 & I love it! I reckon you could fold the back seats down & get a bike in the back no worries.

I've used quite a few Getz's when hiring cars (often for work), and usually get the most basic in the range, with the smaller engine option. These things are not flash or fancy, but they fulfill their intended function very well, and seem very well built and durable. They also use bugger all fuel. I'd happily buy one.
 
car is a depreciating asset.

I used to have a self imposed rule that any car purchased could not be worth more than 5% of my net investable assets.

This way the return on the investable assets would easily cover the depreciation on the car and still leave me with a growing net investable asset base.Eg if the net assets were generated 10% return, and the car depreciated at 15%, 15% * 5% is 0.75%, so the net return on investable assets after accounting for the depreciation would still be 9.25%

ie the cost of the car doesnt impact my overall investment growth strategy that much.
 
I was thinking of buying a 2 year old car but how can you be sure you are getting a good car. You dont know how a person has treated the car. Even if you get a mechanic to do a thorough check on it before you buy it. And yes I know I could save heaps if i went this option. Prob 10 K.

ok, i think i have an idea! Mum said in the next couple of years she needs to upgrade from her hyundai sportswagon. Its an early 2000 model i think. I'll have to ask her. Anyway I know that she has treated the car well. Its in pretty good shape, hasn't done that many k's. I'm thinking I might buy it off her when she decides to buy a new car. This could be a good option. I wonder how much id have to pay for it? Any ideas?
 
I am with Nathan, I only ever buy new cars, I know that just driving them out of the yard they depreciate.......I want the reliability, warranty. I want to know what and how that car has been driven and serviced, even a car 18 months old, you do not know how it has been driven. I am a sceptic.
 
Here's another view.

Investigate different ways of getting finance.

You may, for instance, if you have an employer who can make payments for a novated lease on your behalf. Depending on the kms you travel, that may have some good tax benefits for you.

Or you may be able to get a separate car loan, which, although you would pay a higher interest rate, may not have the same detrimental impact to your IP progress as drawing the money from your bank account.

I bought my car 10 years ago on a novated lease. It was a $20K Ford Falcon- where the payments, taking account the tax benefits, were not very much more than I would have been paying for a $5K bomb.

I bought the car second hand with 40,000km- an ex government lease. With 300K on the clock now, I haven't missed much of the benefit of having bought the car new, for a lot less money.
 
I think i've decided first to:

1. Talk to mechanic
If he says its ok to hang onto, then i'll hang onto it for a bit longer. It may just be feeling a little sluggish cos it hasn't been serviced for around 8 months now. Its a couple of months overdue!

2. When I do buy again I think i'll go for a car thats done no more than 60,000 km on it. Perhaps a 1 - 2 year old car. Hopefully wont spend more than $15 K.

3. Buying mums car would be a mistake. Sis reckons its not in good condition
 
If your one is reliable isn't the saying 'if its not broke dont fix it' appropiate?

Also, what makes you think the mechanic wouldn't give you a view that suits his pocket?
 
We bought our main car new. It is a 1998 Toyota Rav 4. We have used and abused that poor car. It now has around 270k kms on the clock and I've just not long ago registered it. It has never really cost us any money other than basic maintenance. While at the mechanic's I had a bit of a chat with him.

It has a few non urgent things that need doing to it and this will come to around $2k. I asked is it worth going to all that trouble, or should I look at thinking about replacing it, especially as it has a lot of mileage and also because we now seem to be doing a lot more interstate travel than we used to (thanks Lil).:rolleyes:

He said that so long as we were happy driving it, the car will last for quite some time yet, and that the expensive overhall is more stuff that I had neglected to do, like the spark plugs (or was it shock absorbers?) that should be changed at around 80k, that appear to still be the original ones.:eek: He said that it is a study workhorse and the motor has a lot of life left in her, so why upgrade?

So, no new car for us. We will keep on keeping on with the old one.:D
 
My story ...

Purchased a second hand 2000 model BMW 323i in Dec '04 for $37,500 from original owner. He showed me invoice which showed he paid $75k + on road costs. I was thrilled as I had always wanted to drive a Beamer.

I drove this car until Feb 2009. Sold for $17K as I finally decided I had enough of spending my hard earned cash on expensive services & parts. Always a nice suprise each time I had it serviced.

I then purchased a 1.5 year old Corolla hatch for $18K. Damn thing has built in Bluetooth, an Ipod jack an runs on fumes ! Couldn't be happier.

So ... moral of the story ... don't spend your hard earned cash on European cars !!!!
 
anyone that buys a new car is a mug in my opinion...

Well I wouldn't go that far. If you can afford it comfortably, why not? There are people who buy Astons and it's not even a registrable event in terms of their financial situation.

That said, if a car will set you back 3 years, I'm sure my parents would smack me silly if I bought it. For the average Australian a car should only set them back half a year? If you're from a more money-savy nation like China, it should only set you back 1 hour.

That said I've always preferred new car. Know what you get. My most recent buy was a pretty good deal. Got this new merc 2 years ago at a charity auction (hadn't even been released in Aust at the time) for below the RRP since no one bid. Merc offered to buy it back off me later for a price halfway between what I paid and the RRP. I decided to keep it. Still driving it.
 
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