Color & Material for Kitchen Cupboards in IP

[Melbournee]

Hello there,

First time I am changing a kitchen and would like to know what color and material others are using in an IP. (350K IP in outer suburbs melbourne to be precise).

I was thinking those white ones would be cheap but the guy who came in to do the quote suggested not using it (tenants will not take care of it etc) and was suggesting cream or something similar.

Secondly, are all cheap kitchens made of Melamine? (plasticy stuff) What is tough wearing product to use for kitchen cupboards - looks are not important- the lower price bracket the better. But dont want to be changing kitchens every few years.

 

[DaveM]

For an IP, a laminate door kitchen is your best option. Also the cheapest and most hard wearing. Avoid polyurethane or vacform (vinyl wrap) doors as, though they look better, they are easier to damage if not looked after.

Most cabinets are made of HMR melamine which is fine for carcasses.

For colours, go for something neutral which will last decades without going out of fashion. An off white colour wont show dirt/marks as easily.

 

[Jacque]

I'm with Dave here- laminate is cheap, generally hardwearing and comes in a cheerful array of colours! I still think white or antique white is best with a darker benchtop for freshness. Go for something with a speckle or pattern to minimise possible marks/scratches. Depending on the size of your kitchen costs will vary but expect to pay upwards of $6-7K for a basic layout with appliances. Good luck.

 

[Melbournee]

Thanks for the quick replies - to both of you.

Are Ikea and Bunnings flat pack ones made of laminate as well?

 

[arms]

Thanks for the quick replies - to both of you.

Are Ikea and Bunnings flat pack ones made of laminate as well?

"laminate" is a thin layer of plastic that is physically adhered to a substrate usually particle board to get a product finished in a specific colour most common in laminate tops
The term you are looking for is "melamine" which is a micro thin layer of colour impregnated paper fused to a sheet of board MDF or particle board .
The interior of most kitchens are made from white melamine particle board .
doors on the other hand can be of several different materials to get a specific effect .

 

[vbplease]

Just checking - both "laminate" and "melamine" aren't "do it yourself" finishes? they're too much work?

Could anyone confirm this would be ok for a durable "matte" finish - low sheen wall paint, covered with a polyurethane sealer?

 

[beachside]

Melbournee, with melamine make sure you get the thicker pvc edge which will protect the edge from bumps and water. The thinner edge is basically just glued on tape.

Vbplease, if you want to paint them use White Knight if you have a reasonable surface - for this purpose. Sold in most hardware shops.

 

[vbplease]

Thanks Beachside, but I've tried White Knight.. twice.. and couldn't get the finish to look right.. words can't describe how frustrating it is to sand, prep, paint, look bad, sand back, paint again, look worse.. (30 panels).
Keen to try a matte finish this time - just trying to work out the polyurethane part.

 

[beachside]

Thanks Beachside, but I've tried White Knight.. twice.. and couldn't get the finish to look right.. words can't describe how frustrating it is to sand, prep, paint, look bad, sand back, paint again, look worse.. (30 panels).
Keen to try a matte finish this time - just trying to work out the polyurethane part.

I have used the tile paint on shower fibro walls (can't remember correct name). With good preparation with wet and dry (wet) and rolled undercoat, light blocked down and rolled 2 top coats it came out like a spray job. You must be doing it the wrong way ....no offence, but you may not realise. The White Knight laminate paint (which I assume you used) is probably similar to the tile paint - it has good flow, nice to use.

I don't know what surface you have - timber will be different to laminate, but generally speaking make sure the surface is rubbed back with something fine like 280 (using something courser first if necessary) and depending on how worn the paper is, then undercoat, give very light rub back and remove any dust in paint so that it is like a dull mirror finish, top coat and when dry lightly rub back again as before, then top coat again. I have painted many things like this from house doors to desks, in paint, varnish/polyurethane.

The roller is the important part, I use a thin pile mohair (not wool) roller for gloss. I have used Rota Cota in the past. I have tried other roller materials with inferior to horrible results. Foam for example will leave bubbles. After rolling the piece I go over it again with no pressure, just the weight of the roller. You should not be left with much orange peel at all but if you do let the paint dry another few minutes and roll with no pressure again - this will flatten out the orange peel due to the paint being not quite so wet. It takes a bit of experience, but by the time you get to the top coat you will have it right and sanded any mistakes away. Block down with a cork or rubber block - the rubber ones are ideal for wet rubbing. If you can't find one in the paint section of the hardware try the auto paint and panel repair product section. Use some soap (cake) on the wet and dry paper to make rubbing easier (just one rub across the soap now an then) if rubbing wet, and clean with a wet rag to remove build up of paint. Make sure you wipe down surface well to remove any soap residue.

I like using a roller but I have seen bathroom tiles painted with a brush. I have a good eye for detail but I did not pick the tiles as being painted straight away. White Knight flows out nice when drying, not like a lot of modern enamels which dry too quick.

 

[vbplease]

Thanks for the detail Beachside. I'll try the rubber block and soap on the sandpaper next time and see how I go.

 

[Jane - Hotspace]

Hi Melbournee,

Some great advice given already but thought I would give you my 10 cents worth as well.

I agree with everyone that neutral colours are the way to go. However, just make sure that the colour you select is a standard colour that will be able to be replaced in a few years time if necessary (if, for instance one door needs replacing because a tenant has damaged it). I often have clients with perfectly good kitchens but with one or two damaged doors or drawers. The problem is that if it isn't a colour that is still available from the manufacturer, you have to really replace the whole kitchen (or end up with an odd coloured door - not good!). Just something to think about. For what it's worth I think white is perfectly fine. Laminate is a hard wearing product that will wipe clean easily regardless of the colour.

There are two type of laminate - low pressure laminate which is used on vertical surfaces like doors and drawers. Then there's high pressure laminate which is much harder wearing and is used for bench tops.

Beachside mentioned the PVC edging which is really important - particularly for an IP. Tape edges are cheap but they won't last long at all.

OK now having said all that - and knowing that you want to do all this on quite a strict budget, have you thought about renovating the existing kitchen. Here are a couple of before and after photos where my client spent a grand total of $1607 on his kitchen reno (materials only as he DIY'd)!!

http://www.hotspaceconsultants.com/_webapp_890657/24_Winthrop_Street

 

[Melbournee]

Thanks to all for some great responses.

I was finding it hard getting my head around all these different complete "sets" and all these terms etc.

Beachside mentioned the PVC edging which is really important - particularly for an IP. Tape edges are cheap but they won't last long at all.

Got another quote the other day and the guy said the panels will have 2mm PVC Edging- is that ideal?

How does Ikea stuff compare in this regard?

 

[beachside]

2mm PVC is what you want.

Ikea ....not sure. I know some people on here have used them, I have never really liked their style. However when in Ikea a few weeks ago I was pleasantly surprise - some are a bit more to Aussie style (excluding massive handles) and do have a warranty not seen anywhere else - you may get a door replaced ...but will it match. I would prefer to get something that has a better chance of being matched if damaged or a warranty claim as Jane mentioned. Melamine from the big suppliers and used by a lot of local cabinet makers would have to be a pretty safe bet.

 

[burty85]

I had a new kitchen done earlier this year, was a laminate kitchen, went with white cupboards and a black top.... Really came together with the colours

costs where under $6500 for the kitchen and splash backs.

http://www.somersoft.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68374

 

[Jane - Hotspace]

Yes I agree - 2mm is fine. You can actually get 3mm edging too though which is supposed to be even more durable.

Ikea have some pretty nice looking products/kitchens but I'm not convinced about the quality/longevity for an IP.

My advice is to buy basic, off-the-shelf (Australian made) kitchen cabinetry and then add nice details like handles, splash-back and custom made bench-top.

Good luck!

 

[beachside]

The roller is the important part, I use a thin pile mohair (not wool) roller for gloss. I have used Rota Cota in the past. I have tried other roller materials with inferior to horrible results.

Melbournee

I thought I would look the roller up on line and give the link because I had trouble finding the right one in Bunnings last time. I think I know why - Selleys seems to have bought them out and dropped the Rota Cota name. This may be the equivalent http://www.selleys.com.au/diy-painting/paint-rollers/spirit-gloss, but I can't confirm. Take one out of the pack if you can't get a good look (vacuum sealed??) and look for a very thin pile - almost nothing. It does not seem to come in the 100mm size any more which I loved. You don't want to waste paint in loading and cleaning a bigger roller than you need for small jobs and getting a nice finish around the perimeters of doors. Other brands may do a similar one in 100mm if you need, but if I see any of the old 100mm Rota Cota's I will buy them all They are pink.

Because these are so thin piled they don't last too long after the rigors of cleaning oil based paints out of them so do as much as possible in one go before having to clean.