Painting - cutting in properly.

G

grubar30

Hi All,

I'm in the throes of painting my IP. What I need to know is the best way to cut in. That is, when I paint my ceiling and cornices (white) and then do my walls (off-white), how do I tackle those adjoining areas (where wall meets the cornice) correctly. I'm doing it at the moment with a 5cm natural bristle brush and a steady hand, but I find it doesn’t give me that clinical straight line I'm after - I keep getting the wall paint onto the cornices, which ends up looking quite not right.

I've tried using masking tape on the cornices to keep them paint-free when painting the walls, but when I peeled the tape off it took some paint off the cornices, leaving the underlying timber showing. I quickly disbanded this technique.

What about using a plastic sheet wedged in at a 45-degree angle to separate the wall and cornices? Or how about those gizmos with the rollers?

I'm not sure which way to go.

Cheers guys
George
 
grubar30 said:
Hi All,

I'm in the throes of painting my IP. What I need to know is the best way to cut in. That is, when I paint my ceiling and cornices (white) and then do my walls (off-white), how do I tackle those adjoining areas (where wall meets the cornice) correctly. I'm doing it at the moment with a 5cm natural bristle brush and a steady hand, but I find it doesn’t give me that clinical straight line I'm after - I keep getting the wall paint onto the cornices, which ends up looking quite not right.

I've tried using masking tape on the cornices to keep them paint-free when painting the walls, but when I peeled the tape off it took some paint off the cornices, leaving the underlying timber showing. I quickly disbanded this technique.

What about using a plastic sheet wedged in at a 45-degree angle to separate the wall and cornices? Or how about those gizmos with the rollers?

I'm not sure which way to go.

Cheers guys
George
Click to expand...

I'm a terrible Cutter-Inner.. So I paint everything white. Cornices, skirting boards, walls :)
 
Hi George

Like you Im not the best with the old paint brush.
The gizmos with the wheels is what I prefer and will be using again.
The trick is not too over load the pad and keep the wheels paint free.
Cut in first before using the roller.

Peter :D
 
Duncan,
In hindsight I'd probably go down that path. But the paint has been pruchased and I can't go back. Cutting in it is.

Madmurf,
I'll get myself one of those rollers today and give it a whirl tonight. I'll post my experiences no doubt.

Cheers guys.
 
I start at the top and work my way down. When painting ceilings and cornices I make sure it overlaps to the walls. When painting the walls I overlap the skirting.

I use the wheely roller thing. I have one you can use an extension pole with, so no running up and down ladders.

I still have to go over spots where the cornice is crappy and makes a wriggly line. Then a small paint brush (as in one of those ones artists use) fills the line in smoothly.

I am however, thinking of a spraygun for the next one.

Spray everything white, then come back and do a feature wall or something...

Jas
 
grubar30 said:
Duncan,
In hindsight I'd probably go down that path. But the paint has been pruchased and I can't go back. Cutting in it is.
Click to expand...


Hey if its a cheap IP and you just want an OK paint job you could blend your off-white and white together to create GrubarWhite and do everything in that :)
 
Hi Grubar30

If you do use marsking tape make sure its the correct type.
Another trick is to stick the tape to a jumper first to reduce the stickyness.

Cheers
 
g'day Geogre

I found the Oval Cutter Brushes the best. I buy the little 3cm or 5cm ones also use the bigger ones around 7 or 10 but it's easier with the little ones until you get into the swing of it.

I've found once you have some technique you can get around the wall very quickly.

Listen to Jas about where to start I do it that way, ceiling, cornice, overlap wall, paint wall overlap onto skirt, paint skirt with nice glossy paint.

Don't worry if you wobble a bit with the cutting it looks better when you stand back.

cheers
quoll

PS it takes practice, once your've done one house the next are heaps easier.
 
Agree with jas and quoll

I use the pad on wheels trick. Go slow! Do the ceiling & cornice, then cut in with the pad all the way round, you should then be able to get that close with the roller and not touch the cornice.

Though I've had to wipe some wall paint off the cornice through too much haste...

It might look wobbly when you're on the ladder or whatever, but if you've chosen fairly light wall colours it looks good from the ground.

More care to be taken with feature / dark walls of course.

But the method of ceiling + cornice, then wall, then skirting, overlapping on the way makes a lot of sense.

Architrave:
I've noticed a lot of painters only paint the front face of the architrave gloss, the side bits get wall paint, and the gloss and wall paint meet at the corner for a nice line. I've done this and as long as the gloss is 1/2 strength the wall colour or close - it looks great.

Cheers
Jon
 
I, too, paint the cornice & overlap the walls. I don't use any gizmos as I find that a steady hand does a good job (and I have a steady hand). I also cheat a little as I paint the skirting the same as the wall paint if I am going to sell it. It comes up looking good & saves heaps of time.
 
lol @ grubarwhite.....nice

I'll try the roller thing tonight - I got one off a freind at work today so I'll give it a try. If that doesn't work (i.e., I don't get the results I want) I'm going the masking tape again (love the tip about reducing the stickiness).

SteveL - rodger that 3M link. I presume that's a type of professional tape Jas was talking about.

Thanks for the tips guys. Really appreciate it. Seems there's many ways to go.
 
The rollers, masking tape, and cutting in rulers never really worked well for me. The best results I've had have been using a cutting in brush. It's a Spirit brand (I think), and the bristles are cut at an angle. It makes the job soooo nuch easier.

Bunnings didn't stock them at one stage, I used to get them at our local Home Hardware store- at about $15 for a 2.5 inch brush.
 
I recently used the pad with rollers to do my walls, and found it ok with a bit of practice. The trick is to paint onto the pad with a brush (not too much), don't go dipping it into the paint! Make sure the roller wheels aren't too far from the pad surface, or they won't roll properly on the cornices.

Also bought some low-stick masking tape, because I had the same problem with it taking off paint on removal. Not too bad either, just a tendency to dislodge on its own, so be careful you're not painting under the tape.

Just my 2c worth,

Cheers,

M
 
geoffw said:
The rollers, masking tape, and cutting in rulers never really worked well for me. The best results I've had have been using a cutting in brush. It's a Spirit brand (I think), and the bristles are cut at an angle. It makes the job soooo nuch easier.

Bunnings didn't stock them at one stage, I used to get them at our local Home Hardware store- at about $15 for a 2.5 inch brush.
Click to expand...


Agreed. The reason so many people get frustrated with brushes and think they do not have a steady hand is because they try to use cheap brushes.
I couldn't cut paint with a cheap brush even if I really tried. You must get yourself a good expensive brush for cutting. Expect to pay $30 to $50 and it almost does it by itself. The effort to do well with the wheely gizmo is not worth it. Once you try a good quality brush you will throw away wheely pad and masking tape. Regarding masking tape if you really must go that way (do not) you must take the masking tape off the wall as soon as you finished and before it is dry or you will rip the paint film and it may tear off. If you buy purpose masking tape since you need to take off and replace with each coat, you will spend much more than a good brush and end up with a poor job anyway.

Spray painting sounds fun ... what do you do with doors and windows and skirting boards and floor?
 
Gubar30,
I notice that you are in Brisbane, if you are reasonably close to where I live "Cabooluture" I could show you how to "cut in" it is very easy.
It is in the way you hold the brush, very hard to explain but if you are shown you will realise how simple it really is. So you could call me on 0408026363 and we might be able to arrange something, my wife is working this Saturday so if you want some tips just call.

regards
John
 
The reason so many people get frustrated with brushes and think they do not have a steady hand is because they try to use cheap brushes.
Click to expand...
Have to agree with Marc1 on this. Spend an extra $20 per brush, and (my preference) use a BIGGER brush than you think you'll need. The bigger brushes have longer bristles, and just "move" so nicely. If you have a small brush, the bristles don't "move" (they're shorter, and stiffer) and you end up with a less than perfect job.

But DON'T ask my wife's opinion on this, unless you want to start WW111...

Give me a bigger, more expensive brush every time....

Regards,

BTW, re the "more expensive brush", I've found that I can wash it, and re-use it MANY more times than a cheaper version of the same sized brush without losing the quality of finish. Cheap is false economy when it comes to paint brushes, IMHO.
 
Agree with les,
I use 100mm good quality brush for all cutting in around walls. A long handle 50mm brush for all windows and trims.

regards
John
 
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