Plumbing question - Copper pipe flange?

I am fixing a vanity and would like to replace two taps into a single mixer tap.
Part of the change that I need to do is to replace the current copper pipe connection with felxible pipes.
I hope you know what I am trying to say. A single mixer tap uses flexible pipes for hot and cold water. Each of them are connected to a copper pipe from the main. The copper pipes have flange??? with screw on bolts.
Can I simple buy an instrument to make this round flange? I hoping that I can do it myslef by cutting the current taps connection, slip in the screw on bolts and create the flanges.
I can't wait around for a plumber to do it because I work long hours and it needs to be done by this weekend.

Thank you.
 
A single mixer tap uses flexible pipes for hot and cold water. Each of them are connected to a copper pipe from the main.

If you disconnect the existing copper pipes from the wall, the flexi hoses should then connect to the brass connections at the wall, if they are long enough.
 
There should be a threaded brass pipe coming out of the wall, the copper pipe is fitted to it has a brass nut and inside the nut is a nylon washer type thing that fits over the pipe and seals the connection. If your flexible hoses are not long enough you can get extension hoses that screw on.

From what you are describing it sounds like you have a naked copper pipe. You could fit the brass nut with little white washer thing and then screw and adapter in so you can screw the flexible metal hose into it.

Now you can buy a tool to flare the end of copper pipe, give bunnings a go. Not sure why you would need one with the hose though.

Cheers
Graeme
 
I am fixing a vanity and would like to replace two taps into a single mixer tap.
Part of the change that I need to do is to replace the current copper pipe connection with felxible pipes.
I hope you know what I am trying to say. A single mixer tap uses flexible pipes for hot and cold water. Each of them are connected to a copper pipe from the main. The copper pipes have flange??? with screw on bolts.
Can I simple buy an instrument to make this round flange? I hoping that I can do it myslef by cutting the current taps connection, slip in the screw on bolts and create the flanges.
I can't wait around for a plumber to do it because I work long hours and it needs to be done by this weekend.

Thank you.
If the copper pipes are the same dia and match up,just set the flex long enough and use a brass olive compression fitting,and match it with a reducing coupler..imho..willair..
 
If the copper pipes are the same dia and match up,just set the flex long enough and use a brass olive compression fitting,and match it with a reducing coupler..imho..willair..

The fittings are called Kinco fittings

http://www.ifsaus.com.au/page011.html

As already mentioned you can simply use these to fit off to a bare pipe end (smooth). I would suggest that you install some **** taps to which you attach the mixer tails to ensure that there is no back flush possible.

Cheers
 
165x165-32364201.jpg
use a lot of these
the big end comprtession fitting on 1/2 inch
the small end, throw away the nut n olive and the tail of the flex screws straight on
 
The problem is their are two types of flex pipes their are ones woth the Kinco fittings which include , an olive {shaped metal or plastic} inside a nut and housing on one end and a 1/2 inch thread the other,
The other is 1/2 nut as also on the other side,
So if you have the first one you can use the olive over the copper pipe, this works ok, but you should use a small tap just incase their are any bursting or leaks in the flexi pipe.this tap should be welded on.
The second is rather obvios, it needs a small tap or number 19 fitting to be welded to the original pipes.

This should be ok unless the home is old and the HOT water side is 3/8 in size then you need a plumber? good luck with this :D
 
Basically what everyone else is saying is correct. If there are 1/2" threads coming out of the wall for hot and cold water, i would suggest installing quarter-turn mini cistern cocks and a 500kPa pressure limiting valve (PLV) on the cold water supply if you intend to use a flickmixer. The mini cistern cocks just screw onto the 1/2" threads, then you screw the flexi hoses onto them. If you use a PLV, buy a female type, screw it into the mini cistern **** and then screw a 1/2" nipple into the PLV. The flexi hose then screws onto this. Note: that is for the COLD water only, don't bother doing this with the hot water as there is already one at the hot water system. Hope i haven't confused you much :)
 
Basically what everyone else is saying is correct. If there are 1/2" threads coming out of the wall for hot and cold water, i would suggest installing quarter-turn mini cistern cocks and a 500kPa pressure limiting valve (PLV) on the cold water supply if you intend to use a flickmixer. The mini cistern cocks just screw onto the 1/2" threads, then you screw the flexi hoses onto them. If you use a PLV, buy a female type, screw it into the mini cistern **** and then screw a 1/2" nipple into the PLV. The flexi hose then screws onto this. Note: that is for the COLD water only, don't bother doing this with the hot water as there is already one at the hot water system. Hope i haven't confused you much :)

Not a good site for plumbing as you cant say cisterncock, or wallcock , or even hosecock:D
Funny!
That was'nt ment to happen?
 
Thanks guys for the response.
I think the copper pipes that I have in the bathroom have different installation from what most people have?

This is a picture of the pipes that I like to change


This is what I have under my kitchen sink


So from what people explained I can cut the copper pipe and use a tool that I can get from Bunnings to flare the end. Install a tap just in case the flex pipe leaks, then connect the flex pipe to the other end of the tap.
I won't need a plumber to do this.
The copper pipe doesn't need to be heated first before I can flare the end does it?

I am surprise to see soil under the vanity. I thought it would have been concreted. The pipe can be easily moved sideway indicating that it is not imbedded in the concrete.
You can also see how damp the wall is.
 
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If you cut the pipes there are 3 types of tap you can(should) install before the flex pipe.
one type the nut goes on, you flare the end of the pipe then
you do the nut up to compress the flare against the fitting & seal the end.
takes skill
the flare has to be straight and even
one, you solder on sealing the end
takes skill
the pipe has to be clean, flux (dunno what that is)
one, you put the nut on, put an olive (shaped compression ring) on and do the nut up compressing the olive and the pipe and seal the end
takes no skill, can be redone if its wrong, i like this kind
I think you should seeal the floor area somehow, there is a lot of damp t here
 
Interesting.

I've learnt about olives today so cheers for that, always nice to put the correct name with items. :D

None of the mixers I've come across have ever had inline taps at the end of the flexible hose. Thanks for the pic Tropic, something else I've learnt today.

There are a lot of ***** going on in this plumbing thread. Never realised plumbing was such a vulgar discussion. :) :confused:

Cheers
Graeme
 
one type the nut goes on, you flare the end of the pipe then
you do the nut up to compress the flare against the fitting & seal the end.
takes skill

This is what I have under the kitchen sink.

one, you put the nut on, put an olive (shaped compression ring) on and do the nut up compressing the olive and the pipe and seal the end
takes no skill, can be redone if its wrong, i like this kind

This is what I am going to do. I will search the net later to find a picture of the tool. Just to make sure I get it right because I can't picture an olive shape thingy in my head.

I think you should seal the floor area somehow, there is a lot of damp t here
yes I think I should do that.

Thank you so much guys for the very usefull lessons.
Very much appreciated.
 
This is what I am going to do. I will search the net later to find a picture of the tool. Just to make sure I get it right because I can't picture an olive shape thingy in my head.
Just needs a couple of shifters, the olives come in the shutoff pack, hold the tap body with one wrench, tighten one end nut over the olive and compress it into the preformed space in the tap body, then the other end
 
Thanks guys for the response.
I think the copper pipes that I have in the bathroom have different installation from what most people have?

This is a picture of the pipes that I like to change


This is what I have under my kitchen sink


So from what people explained I can cut the copper pipe and use a tool that I can get from Bunnings to flare the end. Install a tap just in case the flex pipe leaks, then connect the flex pipe to the other end of the tap.
I won't need a plumber to do this.
The copper pipe doesn't need to be heated first before I can flare the end does it?

I am surprise to see soil under the vanity. I thought it would have been concreted. The pipe can be easily moved sideway indicating that it is not imbedded in the concrete.
You can also see how damp the wall is.

You don't need to cut the pipe as you can get small joiners they slide over the two pipe's and you get them red hot, some are pre-soldered,
 
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